trap door fuel tank issue
#1
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trap door fuel tank issue
hey by cutting a hole in my body to access the fuel tank aint i causing a serious safety issue
i mean if there was a fire it could enter the car now.. has anyone found a good way to reaffix the metal after the install..
i was thiking to weld a bigger piece of metal over it mabye hinge it but was concerned about welding near a gas tank
also how do you all install the harness without dropping the tank...
i mean if there was a fire it could enter the car now.. has anyone found a good way to reaffix the metal after the install..
i was thiking to weld a bigger piece of metal over it mabye hinge it but was concerned about welding near a gas tank
also how do you all install the harness without dropping the tank...
#2
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Just cut my fuel access door last nite. Took about 45min. When you cut the hole you will be removing the area in the center of the panel above the tank between the (2) centermost ribs. Make sure to leave 1/2" of flat surface all the way around hole - you will just need to cut a cover piece out of sheet metal to fit/overlap the hole and either rivet or screw the cover down - no need to weld - this would essentially ruin the idea of having a easily removeable access door for your pump - never know when you might have to get back in there again.
Some people use silicone as the sealant for the cover - I plan on using the 1/2" wide adhesive backed gasketing that comes on a roll - less mess and even easier to remove cover later.
Do a search here for tons of pics on exactly where to cut hole. I used a combo of air nibbler (in areas of cut where there is a lot of clearance underneath) and Dremel with metal cutoff wheel. Be VERY careful when cutting sheet metal as tank and fuel lines are only about 1/8" at most away from the underside of the sheet metal that you are cutting. Especially on drivers side long cut - right about midway down the cut will be the fuel lines and the tank is very close for the last 5" or so near the back seat end of the cut (same thing on tank for opposite long cut).
Once you have the hole cut and pump replaced - also be VERY careful as to placement of holes you drill for cover attachment screws or rivets - space them as to not be drilling into tank/lines - keep in mind that any screw or rivet you will be using will also be going some distance thru sheet metal - don't want to install a screw that goes right into the top of your tank...
I actually dropped the tank first and had it cleaned, then cut the trap door while the tank was out. That way if I ever have to access pump in the future I will have easy access.
-Jay-
Some people use silicone as the sealant for the cover - I plan on using the 1/2" wide adhesive backed gasketing that comes on a roll - less mess and even easier to remove cover later.
Do a search here for tons of pics on exactly where to cut hole. I used a combo of air nibbler (in areas of cut where there is a lot of clearance underneath) and Dremel with metal cutoff wheel. Be VERY careful when cutting sheet metal as tank and fuel lines are only about 1/8" at most away from the underside of the sheet metal that you are cutting. Especially on drivers side long cut - right about midway down the cut will be the fuel lines and the tank is very close for the last 5" or so near the back seat end of the cut (same thing on tank for opposite long cut).
Once you have the hole cut and pump replaced - also be VERY careful as to placement of holes you drill for cover attachment screws or rivets - space them as to not be drilling into tank/lines - keep in mind that any screw or rivet you will be using will also be going some distance thru sheet metal - don't want to install a screw that goes right into the top of your tank...
I actually dropped the tank first and had it cleaned, then cut the trap door while the tank was out. That way if I ever have to access pump in the future I will have easy access.
-Jay-
Last edited by 1QUIKWS6; 04-22-2007 at 11:41 AM.
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Oh, and with regards to the harness: I have the Full Throttle Pump/harness - the upgraded wiring harness plugs into the fuel bucket at the top tank connections. You simply unplug the 4 pin connector from the fuel bucket & plug the short jumper harness into the stock harness - and then into the fuel bucket. Then you need to fish the long wire up behind the tank and onto the top of the tank area where the fuel bucket is, then plug that connector into the short harness from above step. You can get the wire up behind the gas tank if it is installed - but you still must have the trap door to access the wiring on top of tank.
Then I mounted the relay and ground wire behind the existing bolt that holds the rear brake line bracket onto the car on the DS. Make sure you sand down the bracket (both sides), and the area of the car under the bracket to get good contact. Then the long wire runs up the side of the car, one end bolts to alternator positive post, and the fuse mounts in any convenient area under the hood.
Not sure how the Racetronix harness works...
-Jay-
Then I mounted the relay and ground wire behind the existing bolt that holds the rear brake line bracket onto the car on the DS. Make sure you sand down the bracket (both sides), and the area of the car under the bracket to get good contact. Then the long wire runs up the side of the car, one end bolts to alternator positive post, and the fuse mounts in any convenient area under the hood.
Not sure how the Racetronix harness works...
-Jay-
Last edited by 1QUIKWS6; 04-22-2007 at 11:40 AM.