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12 bolt leaking at the ends

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Old 11-18-2003, 02:26 PM   #1
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Default 12 bolt leaking at the ends

I bought a moser 12 bolt from Randy's ring and pinion. It has been a pain in my a$$ since I bought it with oil leaking from the passenger side end and screw up my brakes. I have changed the bearring and seal now 5 times and it keeps comeing back .
The ends of the axle tube are Ford 9inch style and it uses a taperred bearring. To change the seal you have to press the bearring off and press a new one on. This cost $50 every time I have changed it. Is there a trick or fix to this that I may not have known? The drivers side has never leaked.
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Old 11-18-2003, 09:34 PM   #2
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Is the surface where the seal rides torn up, or possibly do you have a bent axle???


$50 is steep to crack & press a bearing IMO.
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Old 11-18-2003, 10:41 PM   #3
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I would think bent axle too.
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Old 11-18-2003, 11:56 PM   #4
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The cost of replaceing the bearring is $27 for parts and 20 for labor.
THe surface of the axle is smooth, checked at every bearring change and I will check the axle for straightness next time I change it . THis past time I did it , I thought it was fixxed as it did not leak for about 1 month. Thanks for the replys
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Best ET: 11.32@121.3 mph 1.65 60 ft . 3850 lbs race weight
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64ChevyII race car with 347 ls1. 10.24@128 1.43 60 ft. Traded off for 82 s10 with ls1 in works
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5/0be634db.jpg
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Old 11-19-2003, 12:54 AM   #5
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To change the seal you need to pull the axle but not the bearing off the axle. The bearing has a seal yes. But the axle seal is inside the flange of the axle tube. It's just a regular Ford truck axle seal. Go to any parts store tell then you need a rearend axle seal for a '79 Ford 1/2 ton. Install it and your problem should go away. The seal on the bearing will not seal the gear lube from leaking past it. The seal in the axle tube will. It will be a little tricky to get the old seal out. A "hook" and slide hammer seal puller is what will work best. The next best thing is to drill a small hole in the old seal and use a dent puller (slide happer with a screw in the end) to pull it out. Might take a couple holes and tries to get it out.

Chris

Edit Randy's R&P have STUPID HIGH PRICES!!!!!! I called on some gears because they carried the brand I wanted and my normal souce was out and they were $100 higher than anyone else! I kept looking and found a set.
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Old 11-19-2003, 03:37 PM   #6
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No , My axle's use a oiled / taperred type bearring , not the sealed bearring. I cant use the inner seal that you are talking about, mine has to be on the outside of the bearring. I wish it would have come with the sealed bearring so I could change the seal without pulling the bearring off. Moser said the only way to run that type would be to change my ends to the other kind.
At the time , Randy's beat all other prices at $2,054 .00 for 33spline axles with eaton posi and traction control and 4channel abs. It cost a lot more since with all the screw ups they caused.
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2000 nbm T/A
= best 60 on Nittos= 1.644 on 315x35x17 nittos
Best ET: 11.32@121.3 mph 1.65 60 ft . 3850 lbs race weight
1.59 best 60 on m/t drag radials
64ChevyII race car with 347 ls1. 10.24@128 1.43 60 ft. Traded off for 82 s10 with ls1 in works
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5/0be634db.jpg
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Old 11-19-2003, 08:04 PM   #7
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My Strange 12 bolt did the same thing untill I changed it to a 1 piece bearing. Just for grins grab the axle with the wheel off and see if you can move it. I'll bet you can. Those tapered bearings aren't worth a damn for drag racing. Mine, and a number of my buddies all had the same problem. The axle moves in the housing ever so slightly and then the seals leak. Whats worse is what that movement does to the carrier bearings over time. Do yourself a favor and change over to the 1 piece bearing. Its the same one Moser uses in their rears. The spacer on the end of the axle has to be changed, the new one is smaller. Strange can probably hook you up with what you need, I got my bearings and spacers from them. I have had zero problems since I converted over. Except for the terrible whine that all 12 bolts seem to have.

Bruce
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Old 11-19-2003, 08:47 PM   #8
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Hard top. Are you talking about the spacer as i the ends of the axle tubes? If so, how hard was it to swap? I dont know why but the drivers side does not leak either , its always the passenger side.
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Best ET: 11.32@121.3 mph 1.65 60 ft . 3850 lbs race weight
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64ChevyII race car with 347 ls1. 10.24@128 1.43 60 ft. Traded off for 82 s10 with ls1 in works
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5/0be634db.jpg
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Old 11-19-2003, 09:39 PM   #9
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That's the first I have ever heard of a tapered bearing leaking like that. Usually the sealed ones will leak if you lack the Ford 9" axle seals in place.


Is it leaking b/w the housing and backing plate or is it leaking oil out b/w the inner portion of the bearing and axle?

If it's leaking b/w the housing and the backing plate put some RTV on the housing end and then put in the axles and bolt down the backing plates to the housing. Should fix it.

You're bearing doesn't look like this, correct?
http://www.moserengineering.com/cata...ages/9508T.jpg

If it looks like the one I just listed above you MUST use the Ford 9" axle seals on the inside of the housing hub to prevent leaks, MUST!

Or does it look something like this?

http://www.azusaeng.com/latest_news/sldbrng.JPG
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Old 11-19-2003, 09:56 PM   #10
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It looks like the lower one. It seems to be leaking around the axle itself. I put grey silicon around the outer race last time I put it on . it did seem to last longer but just started again.
I am going to try to call Randy's RIng and Pinion again it the mornig to see if they will stand behind it. I am down with a broke ankle from the Thunder shootout so now is a perfect time to tare it down.
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2000 nbm T/A
= best 60 on Nittos= 1.644 on 315x35x17 nittos
Best ET: 11.32@121.3 mph 1.65 60 ft . 3850 lbs race weight
1.59 best 60 on m/t drag radials
64ChevyII race car with 347 ls1. 10.24@128 1.43 60 ft. Traded off for 82 s10 with ls1 in works
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5/0be634db.jpg
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Old 11-19-2003, 10:57 PM   #11
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I have the tapered bearing and still use the seal in the housing,no problems here.
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Old 11-19-2003, 11:04 PM   #12
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Slowhawk , When I first got the rearend ,IT came that way witht the inner seal but the axles would not go in all the way. THe big collar also know as the wedding band kept hitting it and not allowing the backing plates to go all the way to the axle tubes. Is you your press collar about 1inch thick?
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= best 60 on Nittos= 1.644 on 315x35x17 nittos
Best ET: 11.32@121.3 mph 1.65 60 ft . 3850 lbs race weight
1.59 best 60 on m/t drag radials
64ChevyII race car with 347 ls1. 10.24@128 1.43 60 ft. Traded off for 82 s10 with ls1 in works
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5/0be634db.jpg
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Old 11-20-2003, 05:15 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AINT SKEERED
Hard top. Are you talking about the spacer as i the ends of the axle tubes? If so, how hard was it to swap? I dont know why but the drivers side does not leak either , its always the passenger side.
Yes that's the one. The swap was not hard. Just press the old bearings off, and the new ones on. Another thing to check is your bearing races. Mine would move back and forth in the tube end. Put your thumbs on either side of the race and see if you can move each end in and out. 4 of my buddies, including myself, all had loose bearing races that did this. I always thought a race should be tight. Strange acknowledged that the 1 piece bearing is probably better for drag racing, and the tappered bearing is probably better for going around turns. I do most of my hard driving at the track so the 1 piece bearing is better for me.

The drivers side leaked on mine.

Bruce
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Old 11-20-2003, 11:51 AM   #14
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When I talked to moser about 2 months ago, they said I had to cut the ends of my axle tubes off and change to another style that would take the sealed type bearring that is better for drag racing. This make sence to any of you?
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= best 60 on Nittos= 1.644 on 315x35x17 nittos
Best ET: 11.32@121.3 mph 1.65 60 ft . 3850 lbs race weight
1.59 best 60 on m/t drag radials
64ChevyII race car with 347 ls1. 10.24@128 1.43 60 ft. Traded off for 82 s10 with ls1 in works
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5/0be634db.jpg
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Old 11-20-2003, 01:10 PM   #15
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Ok guy's , I got in touch with randy's ring and pinion and they are trying to see what is causing this . They talked to moser and asked there oppinion and they both say that it is the same setup that Ford used for years and something is just wrong on mine. However, he is checking to see what it will take to swap me to a sealed bearring and if I need to change the ends of the axle tubes or not. He is going to do some research and see what he can do to help me out. It will probably be tommorrow before he calls back though.
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= best 60 on Nittos= 1.644 on 315x35x17 nittos
Best ET: 11.32@121.3 mph 1.65 60 ft . 3850 lbs race weight
1.59 best 60 on m/t drag radials
64ChevyII race car with 347 ls1. 10.24@128 1.43 60 ft. Traded off for 82 s10 with ls1 in works
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5/0be634db.jpg
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Old 11-20-2003, 02:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AINT SKEERED
Ok guy's , I got in touch with randy's ring and pinion and they are trying to see what is causing this . They talked to moser and asked there oppinion and they both say that it is the same setup that Ford used for years and something is just wrong on mine. However, he is checking to see what it will take to swap me to a sealed bearring and if I need to change the ends of the axle tubes or not. He is going to do some research and see what he can do to help me out. It will probably be tommorrow before he calls back though.
My Strange uses the exact same 1 piece bearing that Moser does. Strange just sent me a different spacer with the bearings and everything worked fine. Call Strange and ask them. They are familiar with the fix, because me and a number of my buddies have already done it.

Bruce
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Old 11-20-2003, 10:50 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AINT SKEERED
Slowhawk , When I first got the rearend ,IT came that way witht the inner seal but the axles would not go in all the way. THe big collar also know as the wedding band kept hitting it and not allowing the backing plates to go all the way to the axle tubes. Is you your press collar about 1inch thick?
I just switch over to heavy duty race axles and when bolting them up the backing plate was 1/8-1/4 out from fitting flush.I called Strange and they said that is fine and I could use spacer plates if I felt uneasy about it.I have 3k miles on it now with the space and no problems with them loosening up or any leaking.Car has about 25 1/4 mile passes on the setup.
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Old 11-21-2003, 08:17 AM   #18
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make sure u only put around 2 qts when u fill it up. If you overfill it, it will leak from all the places possible. Mine was leaking right after a trip to the track. I just kept of driving and it eventually fixed itself
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Old 11-21-2003, 09:47 AM   #19
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It usually takes more than 2 qts but only a little over to fill it . I fill it untill the oil starts to come out the fill hole on cover.
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= best 60 on Nittos= 1.644 on 315x35x17 nittos
Best ET: 11.32@121.3 mph 1.65 60 ft . 3850 lbs race weight
1.59 best 60 on m/t drag radials
64ChevyII race car with 347 ls1. 10.24@128 1.43 60 ft. Traded off for 82 s10 with ls1 in works
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5/0be634db.jpg
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Old 12-01-2003, 09:01 PM   #20
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Ok guy's , Randy's ring and pinion sent me a set of sealed bearrings and seals . I have to have the axles machined down.003 on a laith to make the new ones fit. this may take a little time but I will let you know if this works.
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= best 60 on Nittos= 1.644 on 315x35x17 nittos
Best ET: 11.32@121.3 mph 1.65 60 ft . 3850 lbs race weight
1.59 best 60 on m/t drag radials
64ChevyII race car with 347 ls1. 10.24@128 1.43 60 ft. Traded off for 82 s10 with ls1 in works
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5/0be634db.jpg
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Old 12-01-2003, 09:01 PM
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