eliminating torque arm saves our 10 bolt?
#1
eliminating torque arm saves our 10 bolt?
Alright so i plan on building an 8.8 as soon as my 10 bolt goes. i already have the 8.8 and was just gonna do the swap but i wanna try something that i havent really seen any one else try and your guys opinion.
I know the torque arm setup puts A LOT of stress on our rear ends and is a huge factor in the common 10 bolt failure. So when i switched to an 8.8 i was just gonna switch over to a mini 4 link and eliminate the torque arm. I plan on doing this to stock 10 bolt housing first, before the swap because im just cutting the axle tubes and rewelding them to the 8.8 center. The reason im doing this all to the 10 bolt first is so can i know its all setup right and the geometries are correct before i go cutting things up.
So heres the question, do you guys think eliminating the torque arm and going with a mini 4 link will make the 10 bolt last considerably longer or is it really just that weak? Im going to do it this way so we'll find out soon enough but id like some opinions first.
( i know g-force sells the setup im doing for like $500 but im not paying that when i can build it myself for less than $100 and ive also never heard of anyone buying/using it.)
I know the torque arm setup puts A LOT of stress on our rear ends and is a huge factor in the common 10 bolt failure. So when i switched to an 8.8 i was just gonna switch over to a mini 4 link and eliminate the torque arm. I plan on doing this to stock 10 bolt housing first, before the swap because im just cutting the axle tubes and rewelding them to the 8.8 center. The reason im doing this all to the 10 bolt first is so can i know its all setup right and the geometries are correct before i go cutting things up.
So heres the question, do you guys think eliminating the torque arm and going with a mini 4 link will make the 10 bolt last considerably longer or is it really just that weak? Im going to do it this way so we'll find out soon enough but id like some opinions first.
( i know g-force sells the setup im doing for like $500 but im not paying that when i can build it myself for less than $100 and ive also never heard of anyone buying/using it.)
#3
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (4)
^^^agree ! 7.625' 10 bolt is good for everyday driving only,but worthless for performance and racing.
If you're discussing the factory torque arm,it's probably prevented some rearends from breaking because of it's 'flexible' design. It's capable of absorbing some of the shock load going to the rearend where as an aftermarket torque arm (very stiff an not flexible) allows all shock loading to the rearend.
If you're discussing the factory torque arm,it's probably prevented some rearends from breaking because of it's 'flexible' design. It's capable of absorbing some of the shock load going to the rearend where as an aftermarket torque arm (very stiff an not flexible) allows all shock loading to the rearend.
#5
LS1Tech Sponsor
iTrader: (16)
The torque arm does cause a lot of stress on the housing which creates a host of problems. 12 bolt rears don't fare as well with our torque arm cars as they do in say, a '70 Chevelle. The late model 7.5 10 bolt is such a puny rear though, that you may help to keep it alive a little longer, but it will be a crapshoot. Bob
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ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website