Is my Stock 10-Bolt Doomed?
03-02-2004, 12:28 AM
#1
Is my Stock 10-Bolt Doomed? Well, once I get my headers in the mail and the dyno-tuning done, I would expect a healthy 390rwhp to my stock 10-bolt rear end. My next mod will probably by a TA cover, then drag radials. I already have Moser axle shafts. My question is, is my rearend doomed to destruction? I am a pretty conservative driver. If I race, I don't raise the RPM then drop the clutch, but put the RPM's at 1200 or so and slowly release the clutch, not SLOW slow, faster than usual if you understand... Do I need to take a lot of caution with my rear end? Is it just the launches that can hurt it? I cannot afford a new rear by any means unless I will the lottery or something. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
03-02-2004, 04:05 PM
#2
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I know whatcha mean. I hardly ever race...maybe 10 passes a year if that, and my 10-bolt is pretty damn quiet. Im installing a cam this week, and making a few passes next weekend..hopefully it'll hold up for 5 or so passes.
03-02-2004, 04:19 PM
#3
My $.02.
On an M6 car, the stock 10-bolts are usually not long for this world. At least on cars that see the track.
That said, one thing you can do to help it live longer is always launch it hard. Yes, launch it hard. You want the tires to spin a little on every run. If you bog the car on the line your clutch and rear end will take the abuse. If you spin a bit, a good portion of the shock is transmitted through the tires.
If you are not bracket racing and just going for test and tune, who cares if the little bit of tire spin make your ET inconsistent? You will have fun and your rear and clutch will live longer. If you do bog on a run, give the car a good half hour cool down. The clutch will get very hot on bogged launches.
On an M6 car, the stock 10-bolts are usually not long for this world. At least on cars that see the track.
That said, one thing you can do to help it live longer is always launch it hard. Yes, launch it hard. You want the tires to spin a little on every run. If you bog the car on the line your clutch and rear end will take the abuse. If you spin a bit, a good portion of the shock is transmitted through the tires.
If you are not bracket racing and just going for test and tune, who cares if the little bit of tire spin make your ET inconsistent? You will have fun and your rear and clutch will live longer. If you do bog on a run, give the car a good half hour cool down. The clutch will get very hot on bogged launches.
03-04-2004, 08:54 AM
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I'm in the same boat you are. Installing headers and TR224 next week in my M6, so I've been reading up on this a lot. A couple things...
I decided to go with the TA cover. No it won't make the 10-bolt bullet proof, but it will help to avoid one type of rear-end failure.
Second, I also decided to nix any DR's and stay w/ the stock F1's - hopefully that will lessen the force to the rear.
Third - I have read of some people "pre-loading" their drivetrain (much like an automatic inherently does). The theory is that if you use the e-brake and let the clutch slip some while staged, you preload the gears so its not such a violent shock to the system.
These things coupled w/ easy 1-2 shifts, hopefully my 10 will last until I can afford a 12.
I decided to go with the TA cover. No it won't make the 10-bolt bullet proof, but it will help to avoid one type of rear-end failure.
Second, I also decided to nix any DR's and stay w/ the stock F1's - hopefully that will lessen the force to the rear.
Third - I have read of some people "pre-loading" their drivetrain (much like an automatic inherently does). The theory is that if you use the e-brake and let the clutch slip some while staged, you preload the gears so its not such a violent shock to the system.
These things coupled w/ easy 1-2 shifts, hopefully my 10 will last until I can afford a 12.