Going from 3.42s to 3.73s, need suggestions & hopefully a how to write up.
03-03-2004, 03:55 PM
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Going from 3.42s to 3.73s, need suggestions & hopefully a how to write up. Well...as many of you know, Ive been wanting to freshen up my completely stock 10 bolt rear end. Im going to go ahead and swap out the gears as well to 3.73s and I was wanting to know which gear manufacturer makes the best set for the 10 bolt? Im also thinking of doing a TA cover, do you think thats necessary or is it just for looks? What other items do you think that I should replace while Im in there? Last but not least, I need a how to write up on how to install the gears because I dont have the money to pay anyone and besides, Ive done everything else on the car, so I have a good bit of knowledge to work with. If there arent any out there, could someone out there provide me some steps. Thank you so much, I would really appreciate it.
03-03-2004, 04:14 PM
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I'd step up for a set of genuine GM 3.73's, the T/A cover w/studbolt kit for bearing caps, and a pair of Moser C-clip axles, which are 35-40% stronger than your stock axles. Use 75-90W rear axle lubricant--not synthetic, but regular gear lube. It'll keep things quieter, longer. I had my rear set up by a pro, cause I didn't want to do it twice, or more....Best of luck. WJ. 
03-04-2004, 10:34 AM
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Why do you recommend GM 3.73s? Is that what members/people are having the best luck with? About the axles, Im going to pull them and see if theres anything wrong with them and if not, then Im going to leave them in there. But if so, then I might consider beefing them up as well. Lastly, how does regular gear oil keep things quieter than synthetic? Ive always ran synthetic in the rear. Thanks
By the way, are there any how to write ups on gear install?
By the way, are there any how to write ups on gear install?
03-04-2004, 11:21 AM
#4
1. start off with the easy stuff, remove driveshaft, remove rear calipers and
rotors, take off cover and drain fluid.
2. remove carrier lock pin bolt(5/16 wrench or socket) and pull out carrier shaft.
3. push in axles and remove c clips with a small magnet, then pull axles out.
Inspect axle bearing surface just inboard of axle seal area. should be nice
smooth. will want to replace axle seals while your their.
4. remove carrier bearing caps and keep caps in order side to side. Use large
prybar to remove carrier from housing. Keep carrier side shims marked side
side to side.
5. remove pinion nut and tap the yoke off of the pinion. Use a punch and
hammer to drive the pinion out of the housing. Remove the pinion seal and
the small pinion bearing.
6. drive the pinion bearing races out with a hammer and punch
7. Have a machine shop or dealer pull off the large pinion bearing and the
carrier bearings. Have them install the new carrier bearings on the carrier
(cheap insurance). My way of setting up the proper gear pattern is as
follows. Take the old pinion bearings and remove some material from the
inside of the bearing so they will slip on the new pinion. These are now
your setup bearings. (you could also find a pinion depth guage but this
method works without that). Install the original shim and the setup
bearings into the housing and tighten the nut until you have a slight drag
on the pinion.
8. now install the carrier with the new bearings and races with the old
shims and measure backlash with a dial indicator. should be between .005
and .009. now apply gear marking compound to the ring gear teeth.
Rotate the gears around several times each way and inspect the pattern.
It should be in the middle of the teeth on both sides.
9. If the pattern looks ok, you can remove everything again install the new
pinion bearings with a NEW crush sleeve and pinion seal. Tighten the
pinion nut until the slack is removed, then using an imact slowly tighten the
nut until it reached 15 to 30 inch pounds of rotating torque.
10. Reinstall the carrier and recheck backlash and gear pattern.
11. If you can find someone that has a pinion depth guage and knows how to
use it you will be better off. If not this way will work and will set up the
gear pattern properly.
If the gears are installed without setting up the proper pattern and backlash they will more than likely howl. I work for a dealer and this is the method I use
and have setup about 30 rearends and are all quiet. Good luck and sorry this is so long but I dont want to see the gears just thrown in there and then see you disappointed with the noise. There is no excuse for noisy gears.
rotors, take off cover and drain fluid.
2. remove carrier lock pin bolt(5/16 wrench or socket) and pull out carrier shaft.
3. push in axles and remove c clips with a small magnet, then pull axles out.
Inspect axle bearing surface just inboard of axle seal area. should be nice
smooth. will want to replace axle seals while your their.
4. remove carrier bearing caps and keep caps in order side to side. Use large
prybar to remove carrier from housing. Keep carrier side shims marked side
side to side.
5. remove pinion nut and tap the yoke off of the pinion. Use a punch and
hammer to drive the pinion out of the housing. Remove the pinion seal and
the small pinion bearing.
6. drive the pinion bearing races out with a hammer and punch
7. Have a machine shop or dealer pull off the large pinion bearing and the
carrier bearings. Have them install the new carrier bearings on the carrier
(cheap insurance). My way of setting up the proper gear pattern is as
follows. Take the old pinion bearings and remove some material from the
inside of the bearing so they will slip on the new pinion. These are now
your setup bearings. (you could also find a pinion depth guage but this
method works without that). Install the original shim and the setup
bearings into the housing and tighten the nut until you have a slight drag
on the pinion.
8. now install the carrier with the new bearings and races with the old
shims and measure backlash with a dial indicator. should be between .005
and .009. now apply gear marking compound to the ring gear teeth.
Rotate the gears around several times each way and inspect the pattern.
It should be in the middle of the teeth on both sides.
9. If the pattern looks ok, you can remove everything again install the new
pinion bearings with a NEW crush sleeve and pinion seal. Tighten the
pinion nut until the slack is removed, then using an imact slowly tighten the
nut until it reached 15 to 30 inch pounds of rotating torque.
10. Reinstall the carrier and recheck backlash and gear pattern.
11. If you can find someone that has a pinion depth guage and knows how to
use it you will be better off. If not this way will work and will set up the
gear pattern properly.
If the gears are installed without setting up the proper pattern and backlash they will more than likely howl. I work for a dealer and this is the method I use
and have setup about 30 rearends and are all quiet. Good luck and sorry this is so long but I dont want to see the gears just thrown in there and then see you disappointed with the noise. There is no excuse for noisy gears.
03-06-2004, 01:06 AM
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Nice write-up LS1Nova!
Not to highjack your thread - but I just picked up a Lingenfelter version of the TA Cover from the boards? Don't know for sure if it has the 'Stud Kit'? What should I look for or see if it does? Figured someone in here could tell me. Thanks!
Not to highjack your thread - but I just picked up a Lingenfelter version of the TA Cover from the boards? Don't know for sure if it has the 'Stud Kit'? What should I look for or see if it does? Figured someone in here could tell me. Thanks!
