DNTBJELOUS

iTrader: (2)

Looking to replace both side Axle Bearings on my 10 bolt. Yes, yes I know, just get rid of it right? I wish it was that easy! Although I have some noise in the rear end & want to freshen it up a bit. My car isn't driven super hard, launched constantly & hasn't even been to the track this season. It's more a street & daily driver than anything. Anyone with any tips before I jump into this one? Also any links to the bearings that I will be needing when tearing it apart?

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

After you tear it apart,you'll find out if the axles' bearing surfaces are ok.
DO NOT buy/use 'axle saver bearings'. They shift the axles outward slightly so that the bearings are contacting a slightly different(and not worn) axle surface. The outward shift causes the c-clips insertion to be difficult and then impossible to remove if you have to get back into the rearend again in the future. There are many threads on the topic.

DNTBJELOUS

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the tip! Obviously if the actual surfaces are screwed up that are making contact I won't have much luck getting rid of the noise unless I change the housing, correct?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

You need a slide hammer and bearing pullers. Some are fairly quick and easy and some are just a pain. Depends whether you get lucky or not. Here's the tool you'll need: plus a slide hammer attachment to wap it with.

http://www.harborfreight.com/rear-ax...set-66380.html

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

Bearings are pressed in housing,not onto axle.

SSellers

Parts list from Summit Racing:


1x FEL-RDS55072 rear end gasket
2x TMK-5707 Timken bearing
2x TMK-8660S Timken seals
1x LIL-12600 bearing and seal driver kit
3 quarts rear end fluid of your choice (takes about 2.5). If you have a Torsen get it either with limited slip additive already in it or use 4oz additive.

You can get the slide hammer and bearing puller kit free at Auto Zone. You'll use the driver kit to get the new bearings in until flush with the end of the axle tube, then use the old bearing against the new bearing along with the driver to finish seating the new one. Putting them in the freezer overnight helps some, too. Fully clean/degrease the end of the axle tube and very lightly smear black RTV on the outside edge of the seal, then drive it in with the seal driver. Apply a healthy gob of wheel bearing grease to the seal lip and you're done.

Other notes....
If you have a four channel rear with reluctor ring axles, remove the 10mm bolt holding the sensors in and pull them out. The ring will often hit those when trying to push the axles in to remove/install the c-clips.
If the small bolt holding the axle blocking pin in doesn't budge, hit it with a propane torch under the head (this is where the threads are) and try again. You don't want it to snap off. Clean before reinstalling and apply Loctite.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Good advice, freezer isn't necessary my past experience.

SSellers

My holes must be tighter than yours. Ooh yeah.

DNTBJELOUS

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the tips guys! I really don't have the time in the day to get this sort of stuff taken care of & I may do a couple of other things to the car as well so I will be taking it to a local shop in my area, Speed Inc, to take care of it.