Help with solid Spicer U-Joints
#1
Help with solid Spicer U-Joints
Replacing my u-joints with Spicer 5-795X’s. These have the solid cross; no grease zerks; and the black rings (seal guard). First cap I pulled off my new u-joint, the black ring broke.
Have any idea where I can get replacement rings?
How do you remove the cap without breaking the rings? ETA – Got this. Padded vice + more muscle.
Any problem using a little anti-seize to prevent galvanic corrosion between aluminum yokes and steel caps.
Thanks.
Have any idea where I can get replacement rings?
How do you remove the cap without breaking the rings? ETA – Got this. Padded vice + more muscle.
Any problem using a little anti-seize to prevent galvanic corrosion between aluminum yokes and steel caps.
Thanks.
Last edited by bsf; 06-14-2014 at 02:09 AM.
#2
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There's no need for anything between aluminum and steel, they occupy the same point on a chart of galvanic activity, meaning they are pretty much non-reactive with each other. If you're interested, there's a pretty good chart available from Fastenal showing this. A google using "galvanic action between aluminum and steel" will bring it up.
Any anti-seize you put on would promptly get scraped off anyway.
Any anti-seize you put on would promptly get scraped off anyway.
#4
It is cracked. Research indicates this is not uncommon. Pulling the first cap/cup off by hand, I probably placed lateral pressure on the black ring (seal guard) as it was sliding off the cross. I put in a request for assistance with a Spicer rep. Hopefully he can help me get at least one replacement seal guard. However, I plan to install the u-joint with the broken seal at the rear of the driveshaft, with the bad seal on a cap in differential yoke. Then I can easily replace the seal guard if I can get my hands on one.