transam0486

iTrader: (2)

where do i go from here?

it was my 1st time ever taking my car to the track after having it 2 years. my best time was a 13.4, but i know i woulda done much better if i had newer tires. on my 5th run there was a bunch of loud noises and i came to realize my engine was no longer connected to the wheels. driveshaft broke. hoped that was all that was wrong until i pushed the car and saw the differential doesn't spin.

i can post a vid and pics later.

what do i do now? what most likely broke and how much would it cost to replace? including driveshaft... i'm on a budget. car sees VERY little track time... just wanted to see what it ran before i put head/cam/headers on.

thanks for your help! i'm too pissed and stressed to spend hours searching on here.

95GreenZ28

iTrader: (70)

Sucks to hear that. I would just find a used 10 bolt and swap it out unless you have cash to get a 9". I have a steel driveshaft for $75 shipped if interested shoot me a pm

Chadz89GTA

iTrader: (5)

Get another 10bolt rear, there cheap and easy to come by.

tylerdj

iTrader: (31)

If you can afford it, go ahead and spend the money on a strong rear end (12 bolt or 9"). You'll thank yourself later.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=145

This is the rear that I recommend if you have the money to upgrade from the 10 bolt. I have seen people put a lot of money into the 10 bolt to try to beef it up, only to have it still break. Bob

transam0486

iTrader: (2)

so it's likely i need a whole new diff? not just new gears or something? ...what part usually breaks when these break?

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

First trip ever huh? You scare me! Can't really have a budget if you are going to race from what I learned. I haven't taken my car yet and probably won't until I have the funds on hand just in case.

This is the area that concerns me though so I am interested. How much is a 9" with everything to get ALL the pieces to get it in the car and going? Something tells me it is more than just swapping that rear in. I figure with ALL the pieces and a new driveshaft about $4000.00. That's nuts!

SLP Firehawk

iTrader: (9)

I Broke 2 Different Posi Units From Hard Shifting At The Track, Cracked That Pin That Holds The Spider Gears In Place. This Is The 3rd And Final Time Rebuilding This Rear And To Be Honest Either Get A Used 10 Bolt Or Get A 9" I Wouldn't Spend A Dime On Your Old 10bolt

ICRAZY6

iTrader: (68)

transam0486 I've got a 10 bolt with 26,000 miles on it. It does have 3.23's in it as it came out of my A4 Car. I did use the backing plates and reluctor wheels. Might be able to meet you half way if your wanting it. Pm me if your intested.

SS101

iTrader: (2)

c-clips, posi (the parts that SLP firehawk mentioned), spiders, and ring & pinion are the most common

blue98Z

iTrader: (29)

This is what I spent on my 9" I just ordered and installed:
9" housing package-$1135 w/ drain plug, lca relocation brackets 31 spline axles
Used M/E aluminum center w/gears-$650
Sway bar kit-$100
PST driveshaft-$410
Total=$2295
This doesn't inlcude the paint and materials, plus I pressed my own bearings on so that saved some money also.

There is a cheaper alternative. You could order the housing package then go to the junkyard and find you a center out of a 9" then a used shaft on here, use 3" muffler clamps for the sway bar and save alot more money. I just had the money to spend to make it look nice so that's what I did. Thanks again to Bob at EPP.

transam0486

iTrader: (2)

geeeze what a nightmare.. pretty sure i'm going to go w/ either fixing whatever i broke or getting a used 10-bolt like some recommended. like i said originally, the only reason i was at the track in the 1st place was just so see what i ran before i put on heads/cam/headers. it's not going to be a track car (at least not until i'm out of college and can afford it)

what's the cheapest route i can take to have it back to stock quality and maybe a little stronger?

transam0486

iTrader: (2)

also.. i had a lot of wheel hop at the track and i know that's bad for rear ends... i plan on stiffening up the suspension eventually

SLP Firehawk

iTrader: (9)

GET LOWER CONTROL ARM RELOCATION BRAKETS AND NEW CHROMOLY LCA'S

thebart455

i had wheel hop really bad the first time at the track with my car, and that was also my best time was a 13.4 @ 107.3 mph but with the wheel hope i put some lakewood boxed lower control arms on my car with some drag shocks made my comp engineering. as far as your ten bolt they just wont hold up to a m6 with a strong clutch. i still have my 10 bolt and i know my car is a 12 sec car but i know slicks will blow the posi unit so i guess im out of luck lol

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

I'm in the same boat, i was looking into the 9", could have had a housing ready to drop in for 250.00 bucks, now i find out i have the 3 sensor ABS system, so a complete 3rd. member is going to be 1588.00 from moser, i guess there will be no more racing this car, just can't afford it.

DopdBrd

iTrader: (25)

I've got a steel driveshaft, two rear ends, both axles are good and one carrier is good, and a set of LCA's for sale if you need any of that. Let me know.

transam0486

iTrader: (2)

well i took the cover off and it's a mess inside. bunch of chunks of metal. think i'll jus get a used diff instead of trying to fix my broken one...

keliente

iTrader: (22)

The best bet is to not upgrade the 10 bolt at all...just start saving for an aftermarket rear.

transam0486

iTrader: (2)

easier said than done. i'm poor and in college and just bought heads and springs. ...a cam and headers are coming. i want to get it on the road and i'm going to stay away from the track till i can afford a 12 bolt or 9 in