SHINER

iTrader: (18)

My Wallet > Your Wallet = F.T.W.

98NATA

I may try this stuff, so is everyone using 10w-30 or 5w-30?

LS1vazquez

I very much beg to differ. I made the mistake of running Castrol GTX high mileage in my Buick and that stuff was junk. Change oil light came on at 3000 miles and it just started eating the oil after that.

Switched the M-1 Extended Performance and took it to 5K miles.

SHINER

iTrader: (18)

Castrol GTX is what some speed shops use for their track cars.


In the end as long as it is API, and SAE certified no matter what oil it is, your going to be just fine.

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

Are you sure you didnt change driving styles? The oil life meter does not analyze the oil, just tells you when to change it depending on how you drive.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

OK. Might be helpful here when it gets 20 degrees or colder. Shoot when it dropped down to singles/really low teens and I had the bad lifters that was mayhem.

Perhaps I should drop it down a notch see how it does at 5W30 first next oil change.

binks0678

iTrader: (7)

had to bring this post back from the dead, changed my oil today with super tech full sinthetic 5w-30 and a super tech filter (first oil change since ive owned it so i have no idea what was in it before) so far im really impressed with it for like $20 oil change, before the change warm idle oil pressure was 35psi and WOT was around 65psi, now warm idle is 40psi and WOT around 75psi on a car with 72000 miles on it im happy with it

z28berryhill

iTrader: (26)

ive used this on my old blazer works good i may start also

BigPapi61

iTrader: (1)

My dad told me this long ago when I got my first car. Find an oil you like, change it and the filter every 3000 miles and your car will last a long time.

As long as the oil meets industry standards, I dont think it really matters. Hell I think vegetable oil would hold up for 3000 miles This is like debating which beer is best, everyone has their favorite and they all do the same thing.

ghardester

Putting the oil question aside, I worked in manufacturing of other products for a great number of years. The difference between many products is just the package it came in. The production line doesn't stop, one brand's boxes/bottles/bags run out and you put in the other. You might be amazed how many brands are simply the same product with different packaging/marketing. Products with greater brand loyalty and marketing are sold at higher premiums and others are sold to major big box stores for bulk rates, but many are the same thing.

Gun5

iTrader: (37)

Well gotta throw my .02 in after reading the whole thread

In my automotive classes at school castrol GTX has passed the most tests and has the most cert's of any oil out there (this is comparing mobile 1, valvoline, blah blah royal purple all that stuff we had a good 25-35 bottles) that's as far as tests go

I ran GTX in my LT1 and it did great I'v run supertech in 2 DD's and am running it in the GF's current car.. if its mobile 1 and is actually worth a crap I might just run it in my next LSX and do the changes right at 3000..

The myth of conventional to synthetic.. its pretty simple you dont run conventional for 100k then goto synthetic conventional oil makes sludge on the gaskets helping them seal.. synthetics have detergents in them that clean them up in a good 1000-1500 miles of the oil change and thats why so many people see leaks.. if you've been using synthetic since the rebuild or car was new keep on using it I guess supposedly it doesn't break down as fast but most failures from oil are operator related like not changing the oil for 5-10-25k miles.......

SHINER

iTrader: (18)

93K on the SD and just switched to Sythetic.

Bones87

Okay so someone help me out here since I'm new to the F-body club and I'm not trying to screw up my CETA firebird. For now my baby is a DD with ~39,000 miles on it. Since I bought the car roughly a month ago I have no idea what oil is in it now.

So that being said -- what should I do here oil and filter wise? It looks like the Walmart Supertech is just as good as other pricier oil. On the other hand, I would really like to keep this car running in great shape for a long time as I don't plan on getting rid of it so its hard to break habit and turn away from big-name brand oils. Anyone have any ideas? I'm still trying to learn as much as I can on oil/lube changes to keep my car nice and healthy so any advice is welcome. Do I get 0w30? 10w30? I really have no idea...climate wise im in virginia so temperatures year round will go from 20ish degrees in winter to nearly 100 degrees in the summer.

6THZ28

iTrader: (11)

I suggest a good synthetic and a good filter. Forget the Wal-Mart brand if you want piece of mind. IMO use it on a "regular" vehicle rather than a high performance vehicle that requires a higher quality oil. I use Mobil 10w30 synthetic and a Fram Tough Guard 3506.. Your responses will vary I'm sure and I will be criticized too but I've owned 6 Z28's and I've used this on all my cars and NEVER had any engine probs. EVER

It would also be a good idea to change your tranny and rear end fluid at some point but with 39K, it's not really necessary at this point. I was also recommended by a very reputable tranny shop here in Houston to just use regular, factory tranny fluid and nothing fancy as it will protect the same and there's no need for synthetic. I don't know how true that is but it's worked for me for all vehicles.

02 BLK WS6

iTrader: (11)

I rarely drive my SS in the winter. I have run SuperTech full synthetic for 2 years 10w30. I recently changed over to Valvoline 10w30 full synthetic. I have always used a Delco filter. I never had an issue with the ST full synthetic, but the valvoline seems to hold up better.

I got away from Castrol years ago, conventional seemed to break down faster than valvoline. Severe duty on a carbed motor. I am a valvoline fan. Oh well

SHINER

iTrader: (18)

FRAM filters are absolutley horrible, they have tons of lawsuits from people who have literally had to replace there motors due to the filter bursting off and oil starvation. If you are dead set on a name brand filter atleast use AC Delco, or a WIX filter.


Guy with the CETA, if you are in harsh winters and generally cool most of the year just go ahead and get a 10W30, I have not seen a 5W30 syntech oil on the shelves but you might find one.

Im am very happy with the Syntech oil and syntech filter. Oil has 3,300 miles on it the other day and had no oil consumption, and oil was not dirty looking either. Im sure I can get 5K out of this confidently.

I liked spending 19 bucks for a complete oil change (6qts and a filter of full synthetic Supertech) rather than 35-40 bucks on the fancy label stuff. Plus, I got to take my gf out to lunch with the extra bucks.

More money in my pocket = a happier girl friend

Gun5

iTrader: (37)

damn my Mobile 1 change was $27 + 3 filter GRRR... i usually use castrol GTX but the guy had been using synthetic since he did the crate motor so I figure i'd keep running syn.. just need to find a decent brand id like to be around $20-25 for a complete change

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

If you drive a POS, get eh Wally world ****. If you have a high performance vehicle, don't take the chance for $10.

Supertech syn $12, Mobil 1 $22 @ wal mart (5qt) ~$10 for an oil change, 4X a year, $40

Supertech filter $2, Wix $6 I'll stick with the Wix or Nappa gold filter. 4X a year = $16

Good oil & filter ~$50 a year more. Stop crying.

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

I change the oil every 3 months no matter what the milage. Even if I do not drive the car.

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

I may even change it before & after a race day depending on how I feel and how old the oil is.

Next thread will be can I run 87 octane.