E-brake problem
03-23-2010, 03:37 PM
#1
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E-brake problem So ever since i bought the camaro the e-brake has never worked, and I need it in the summer so it needs done and now is the best time. It's doesn't seem like its engaging when i pull the handle as there is no resistance. I don't know if it's a cable or what but where would be the best place to check?
03-24-2010, 12:58 PM
#2
Does your handle go to the sky? Does it give you any resistance or hold the car even a little bit?
The parking brakes need to adjusted to the rear rotors. Commonly, people will change the rotors and not do the adjustment. (which needs to be done with the brakes/rotors off)
The parking brakes need to adjusted to the rear rotors. Commonly, people will change the rotors and not do the adjustment. (which needs to be done with the brakes/rotors off)
03-24-2010, 03:06 PM
#3
i could be wrong but i thought the e-brake was self-adjusting,
the parking brake shoes are probably toasted, I would check there first.
it requires removing the rear wheel and undoing the caliper so the rotor can be pulled off.
If you have traction control, or ASR, then you have a reluctor wheel on the end of the axle making it hard to access the e-brake shoes. The solution there is to remove the rear differential cover (draining the rear axle fluid) and removing the paddle block and C-clips holding the axles in, all it takes is a 5/16" 6-point closed end wrench to remove one bolt and the axles pull right out. It was years ago when I had to mess with that on my 99, I'm not sure if you can simply replace the e-brake shoes without pulling the axles.
the parking brake shoes are probably toasted, I would check there first.
it requires removing the rear wheel and undoing the caliper so the rotor can be pulled off.
If you have traction control, or ASR, then you have a reluctor wheel on the end of the axle making it hard to access the e-brake shoes. The solution there is to remove the rear differential cover (draining the rear axle fluid) and removing the paddle block and C-clips holding the axles in, all it takes is a 5/16" 6-point closed end wrench to remove one bolt and the axles pull right out. It was years ago when I had to mess with that on my 99, I'm not sure if you can simply replace the e-brake shoes without pulling the axles.
03-24-2010, 10:55 PM
#4
The star wheel mechanism looks like the old style drum brakes, which were self-adjusting - but this is not. Its totally static: http://www.pbr.com.au/products/origi...rkbrakes.shtml
The only way to wear out the brake shoes is if you drive around for a very long time with your parking brake on. When its off there is 0 friction in the mechanism.
The only way to wear out the brake shoes is if you drive around for a very long time with your parking brake on. When its off there is 0 friction in the mechanism.
03-25-2010, 11:13 PM
#5
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Does your handle go to the sky? Does it give you any resistance or hold the car even a little bit?
The parking brakes need to adjusted to the rear rotors. Commonly, people will change the rotors and not do the adjustment. (which needs to be done with the brakes/rotors off)
The parking brakes need to adjusted to the rear rotors. Commonly, people will change the rotors and not do the adjustment. (which needs to be done with the brakes/rotors off)
And it has a limited slip differential i believe, if that complicates anything in the brake area.
03-26-2010, 08:29 AM
#6
Sounds like its adjustment. If so, you will need to take the wheels, brakes, and rotors off on both sides in order to do the adjustment.
I'd first check where the cables meet the parking brake levers sticking out from the back of the brake plate at each wheel. Check to make sure the cables are attached and tight. Looking under the car, you should also be able to trace the cables back to the center of the car and confirm they are not cut. If the cables are good, you'll need to adjust.
I'd first check where the cables meet the parking brake levers sticking out from the back of the brake plate at each wheel. Check to make sure the cables are attached and tight. Looking under the car, you should also be able to trace the cables back to the center of the car and confirm they are not cut. If the cables are good, you'll need to adjust.
