Gen5 Camaro L99 vs LS3 Alternator
11-14-2015, 11:59 PM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Gen5 Camaro L99 vs LS3 Alternator My charging system failed today. No obvious problems. Will climb under the car tomorrow to diagnose however I am likely going to be buying a new alternator and belts. I have a 2011 2SS L99. Should I stay with the decoupler pulley version alternator called in the parts book for the L99 Auto or should I go with the LS3 Manual no clutched pulley alternator version? Do not understand what the reason is for the automatic to have the clutch pulley but want to go to the most reliable version.... No one has really answered the WHY of the clutch pulley system in any threads I have searched... FI threads I read seem to indicate the clutch pulley can be a weak point and they are close to 1/3 the cost of a new alternator. Both versions are identical except for the pulley
Which version should I order... I don't have any wild power consumers in the car so I would think 150 amp stock is enough and the aftermarket units can run big money which I can spend elsewhere. Need to get ordered tonight if possible..and want to avoid any potential future problems.
Which version should I order... I don't have any wild power consumers in the car so I would think 150 amp stock is enough and the aftermarket units can run big money which I can spend elsewhere. Need to get ordered tonight if possible..and want to avoid any potential future problems.
11-15-2015, 02:30 PM
#2
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just ordered the L99 version with the clutch pulley. The decoupler must be there for a reason and I am not into FI territory yet. I guess if the decoupler pulley seizes with FI it can kind of unscrew itself on deceleration.
Oddly no one (Autozone, ect) could test the alternator on their machines. The tester programs would give an error when they typed in the part number. Maybe because the ECM controls the output, who knows. It did smell pretty suspect (burned electronics) and the plastic back cover and heat shields on the alternator wires were a little crunchy. When I took it out the alternator output gauge had gone to 0. When I get the new one I am going to put some heat protection on those wires and make sure they did not cook thorough and cause the failure........
Oddly no one (Autozone, ect) could test the alternator on their machines. The tester programs would give an error when they typed in the part number. Maybe because the ECM controls the output, who knows. It did smell pretty suspect (burned electronics) and the plastic back cover and heat shields on the alternator wires were a little crunchy. When I took it out the alternator output gauge had gone to 0. When I get the new one I am going to put some heat protection on those wires and make sure they did not cook thorough and cause the failure........
11-18-2015, 11:14 AM
#4
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts