Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

I replaced my stock starter with a truck starter
Replaced my Duracrap Gold with a Powermaster and even got a refund for the Duracrap.
I replaced my Optima Redtop under Warranty with a brand new Redtop costing me only shipping.
I replaced all my battery cables with 0 Gauge cables by Innovative Wiring.

I wanted something that was going to look factory. Well.. I'm running into problems with the wiring.

It is much larger than stock so it is extremely hard to route it. The two largest concerns I'm having is..

#1 It is putting alot of tension on the battery terminals. I literally had to lift the battery to install the cables on the battery posts. It is an Optima Battery but I am deathly afraid of the tension wearing down and breaking the Battery Terminals. Has anyone who has done this mod run into this issue and if so how did you rectify it? or do I even have anything to worry about? The cables are too long around the battery area.

#2 Under the passenger side of the car, The engine ground is DEATHLY close to the exhaust manifold, literally a finger's space. I cant seem to make any more room either. If this cable were this close or to even touch the header I would be screwed wouldnt I? Did you run into this issue and if so how did you get around it?

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

1. for a regular side post lead-acid battery i would worry about the force placed on the battery plus vibration and time to cause electrolyte to leak. for the optima red top i thought the + and - actually come out the top of the battery and then it was the case itself that provided the side post terminals to fit the application, so any force placed on the terminals on the optima battery may be a non issue.

2. ground cables need not be insulated, on my vehicles it's an exposed metal cable or strap. if your ground cable hits the header it'll melt any insulation obviously but as long as the metal [assuming copper] conductor does not break it would be fine and whether it contacts any metal would not matter because it's a "negative ground" electrical system. do a google on braided ground strap, they are usually tin plated and have no insulation. ground cables do not need to be circular in shape of 2-gauge or larger, a flat braided strap being only 1/8" thick but 1/2" or more wide is almost always a better option.

example: https://www.zoro.com/quick-cable-gro...02/i/G7490524/

Majestic9C1

iTrader: (19)

here is how mine look








cables running to the starter are about an inch off the K-member on the inside of the motor mount.. (kinda hard to see)

Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

I managed to readjust mine so there isn't as much tension on the battery. It was a pain because I had to pull and tug on the cables from under the car and I also got them off the exhaust manifold.

Its alittle better but yours still looks cleaner. I'll take a photo of mine when I get home but in the mean time, how did you route the starter cable? it looks like you separated it from the engine ground cable and brought it under the heater hoses near the compressor?

Majestic9C1

iTrader: (19)

The engine ground is running with the starter cable all the way to the starter.. just splits about 8 inches back from the battery to reach the terminals..


If you are looking at the positive cable sitting underneath the heater hoses, thats just laying there when I had my Battery in the rear of the car..

I just left it there in case I wanted to put the battery back there in the future

Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

Ah that was throwing me off, I was wondering how you managed to bend 0 Gauge Cables like that without being superman himself.

Just curious howcome you put your Battery back at the front?

Majestic9C1

iTrader: (19)

I was getting no starting after a few days issues.. It was mostly the battery that I had used back there (Kinetik HC1400)

I may go back to a rear setup in the near future