1FSTLS1

iTrader: (9)

Any one provide any details on how this is done. I found this picture but am not exactly sure what the mark is on there that is being measured. I have never done this before.

SMALLBLOCKHERO

iTrader: (2)

the wrapper plastiguage comes in has marks on it. this represents the thickness of the plastic when crushed from torque specs. match the wrapper marks to the flattened plastic and the width of it will tell you your clearance.

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

You put a strip of the plastigage down on the crank, assemble the rod/main and torque it to spec being very careful to not turn it. Take the cap back off, put the package that the plastigage came in up against the squished piece of strip and however wide it is, is the approximate clearance.
I'm sure you could google it for a more thorough explaination if you don't understand this one.

1FSTLS1

iTrader: (9)

Sonds good do I get these at NAPA?

CamaroSS22

iTrader: (1)

You should be able to get them at Napa or any performance shop. Its probably gonna be like 3 bucks. Depending on what the motor is gonna be used for i would use a micrometer instead of plastic gauge just because its more accurate. If ure going this in depth just take the extra time and do it right. If you have any other questions just shoot me a pm.

1FSTLS1

iTrader: (9)

Well I am going to replace main and rod bearings whille im in there. Do I need lock tight when I put the main bolts and rod bolts back on?

samson_420

iTrader: (1)

No LockTite, just torque in sequence to spec. And oil the threads of the main cap bolts. < Correct if I am wrong. I done it this way every time.

Also Plastigauge is not very accurate. It is good but not great, I used it on my last few rebuilds just because I can not stand using inside and outside micrometers.

When you use Plastigauge make sure your bearings are dry and not oiled. An make sure not to turn the crak at all!