dnkynrbk

iTrader: (34)

Has anyone stud heads while the engine is allready in the car. Im going from arp head bolts to studs. Is there any special tricks to do this or has anyone done it. I just didnt know how much room I would have to work with.

conan

iTrader: (5)

No problems here, I've pulled the heads and reinstalled them with the studs in the block. Don't forget to blow out the holes in the block with compressed air before you intall the studs.

Jon@Texas-Speed

iTrader: (18)

I always had to put the heads on the block dowels and then screw the studs themselves in the block and then install the washers and studs. I never had room with the brake booster to get my heads off with the studs installed in the block.

Jon

dnkynrbk

iTrader: (34)

Hey thanks for your help should I go ahead and have my heads re surfaced.

captainwizbang

iTrader: (1)

I'm looking at my studs just hand tight in the block and I have at best 4.5" of clearance. I need 5 ~ 5.5" of clearance to slip the heads over the studs. I think you've nailed it on the head (no pun intended), i'm going to do the same thing you did.


Well... it's the next day. Yesterday I got one of the heads on and slipped the studs in place. I've learned two things that my be of benefit to those of you switching to studs.

A) on the passenger side head rear bottom stud, you'll have to place this stud along with the head because it's too long to get into place after the head is installed. I found it was easiest to use some tape to hold the bolt in place while i placed the head. If you dont tape it, it will slide all the way into the head and be a pain to position.

B) put the washer and nut onto the studs BEFORE you drop them in place. It's not easy dropping those things in place after the stud is installed.