greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

how are you running the steam port from the heads AND the overflow to a radiator with only one barb on the neck??

I have a griffin radiator 1-25241-x

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-1-25241-x

What would I need to do? Could I delete my overflow tank? Is it required? It's on a boosted car

zzcamaro00

I would add a port/nipple to run an over flow tank

samdogmx

iTrader: (14)

drill and tap a hole in the top of the waterpump

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

It depends on where the barb is. On the eBay aluminum radiators it is above the caps pressure spring, meaning it vents to the overflow and cannot be used for the coolant crossover. On later model cars we don't have the level sensor so I adapted the hole for that to go to my steam port hose. If you have the sensor you would need to drill and tap or weld another barb.

97WS6SCharged

iTrader: (1)

Had a -6 an fitting tig welded into the passenger side tank of my radiator for the steam line.

roninsonic

iTrader: (3)

return the steam vent output into the upper radiator hose. Jagsthatrun has splice-in adapters for like 25 bucks that have a 1/8NPT port that is perfect for it, as well as a built-in bleeder valve.

The exact part number is somewhere in one of my created threads titled "steam vent setup" or some such,.

greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

This will work thanks

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

^^^good piece of info

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

tapped the unused boss on the water pump for one of my cars.
I made an adapter for water pump vs upper radiator hose size with a fitting for it in my other swap.

roninsonic

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, y'all.

If you're in for making it blingy, I can post some pictures of the Kurt Urban setup returned to the JTR bleeder. Pretty trick setup, all AN. I have the parts list for making the return line, as well (KUP doesn't supply anything for the return) if you want to do the bling-bling AN thing.