Silver99Z

Can anyone shed some light on this?

Last September dealer replaced passenger side window motor. When I drove away from the shop, I got about 1/4 mile when the engine quit. Turning key to START produced nothing. Sat a few minutes and then the car started. This happened again in October. Car was stored for the winter. Now, the car will idle for a half hour without quitting, but when I drive away the engine quits after 300 feet. Again, turning key to START produces nothing until the ignition has been shut off for a few minutes. Then car will then start and go another 300 feet and quit again.

It seems to me that a circuit breaker or some kind of thermal overload is cutting out and then resetting. I replaced the ignition switch, not the lock tumblers, the switch in the steering column that's actuated by the rod connected to the lock. That didn't help. I'm thinking it might be a faulty ignition relay. Thanks for any help.

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

When it does nothing, you mean no cranking? Still running the o.e. battery? When it stalls do you have no power/dashlight nothing? Little more descriptive & maybe I can help. The more circuits known affected can steer you in the direction of the problem.

Silver99Z

When it quits, turning the key to START produces absolutely nothing. No starter, just like a dead battery. As I said, after sitting with key off for a few minutes, the car will then start. There is, however, battery power. I have a new Optima Red Top relocated in the rear. Battery's not the problem.

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

Does it loose all power when attempting to crank, I.E. dash/ radio goes dead when trying to crank? That would indicate a voltage drop in system, poor connection, bad cable.It sounds like the ignition switch & pcm are loosing power. The battery has been relocated, check the connections to the starter & specially to the juntion block for power distrubution center . Dont know exactly how you set up the cables from trunk but I'm betting your problem lies there. There is no circuit breakers in the powers into the ignition switch or the pcm so your gremlin must be an intermittant one.The run shut down cool & run again sounds as though it's a connection heating up & cooling causing your problem. By knowing what circuits don't work when problem occurs it might narrow it down to a specific area to check for this poor connection. I dont have the diagrams at home but I'm sure the ignition gets power from the power dist. box /main fuses on the drivers front corner of engine compartment.Good luck!