Easiest way to install oil temp or fuel pressure gauge?
08-27-2007, 11:03 AM
#1
Easiest way to install oil temp or fuel pressure gauge? So I have a 3-pod in my Camaro and need to get some gauges in there.
With 100k miles I want to pick the most important ones but also don't want to be intimidated by install. I installed my NOS pressure gauge without problem so I am pretty good with my hands.
Anyway, here are instru for both:
Oil . : Hole may have to be drilled and adaptor nut
(included) welded or brazed in pan. Be sure there is adequate
internal clearance for nut and sender. Sender should
automatically be grounded when installed. If not, proper ground
connections should be made.
3. Route 18-gage twin conductor wire through firewall using grommet.
Connect one end to terminal post on temperature sender, and
opposite end to sender (S) terminal on back of gauge.
CAUTION: Be careful not to touch ignition wire to the sender (S)
terminal on back of gauge or the sender may be damaged.
4. Connect wire from center terminal GND (-) on back of gauge to
good engine ground near sender.
5. Connect wire from ignition switch to ignition I (+) terminal on
back of gauge.
6. Install the light in the socket on the rear of the gauge and connect
one wire to the dash lighting circuit or other 12V power source.
Connect the other wire to ground.
Fuel Pressure Gauges
3. Install sender into pressure port of appropriate type. If unit is to be installed on a high vibration application such as a full race engine or engine capable of high RPM, it is strongly recommended that the sender be remote mounted to either the fender well or
firewall, to insulate from vibration. Failure to remote-locate pressure senders on such an application could result in gauge failure and potential damage to vehicle and/or operator injury. Braided stainless steel lines are sold separately by Auto Meter, and can be used to accomplish this. Sender features 1⁄8" NPT male fitting and comes with 1⁄4" NPT adapter. Sender should automatically be grounded when installed. If not, or if remote relocation of sender is required, a ground connection to sender "body" may need to be made.
4. Route 18-gage twin conductor wire through firewall using grommet. Connect one end to
terminal post on pressure sender, and opposite end to sender (S) terminal on back of gauge.
CAUTION: Be careful not to touch ignition wire to the sender (S) terminal on back of gauge or
the sender may be damaged.
5. Connect wire from center terminal GND (-) on back of gauge to good engine ground near
sender.
6. Connect wire from ignition switch to ignition I (+) terminal on back of gauge.
7. Install the light in the socket on the rear of the gauge and connect one wire to the dash
lighting circuit or other 12V power source.
So I thought that basically on an LS1 that we just connected the sender to the end of the fuel rail. Is it that easy?
On the oil, do I really need to tap my pan? With 100k, my car does not leak one drop of fluid. So i don't wanna open the flood gates if I am putting a freaking hole in my pan.
Thoughts???
Thank you!!
With 100k miles I want to pick the most important ones but also don't want to be intimidated by install. I installed my NOS pressure gauge without problem so I am pretty good with my hands.
Anyway, here are instru for both:
Oil . : Hole may have to be drilled and adaptor nut
(included) welded or brazed in pan. Be sure there is adequate
internal clearance for nut and sender. Sender should
automatically be grounded when installed. If not, proper ground
connections should be made.
3. Route 18-gage twin conductor wire through firewall using grommet.
Connect one end to terminal post on temperature sender, and
opposite end to sender (S) terminal on back of gauge.
CAUTION: Be careful not to touch ignition wire to the sender (S)
terminal on back of gauge or the sender may be damaged.
4. Connect wire from center terminal GND (-) on back of gauge to
good engine ground near sender.
5. Connect wire from ignition switch to ignition I (+) terminal on
back of gauge.
6. Install the light in the socket on the rear of the gauge and connect
one wire to the dash lighting circuit or other 12V power source.
Connect the other wire to ground.
Fuel Pressure Gauges
3. Install sender into pressure port of appropriate type. If unit is to be installed on a high vibration application such as a full race engine or engine capable of high RPM, it is strongly recommended that the sender be remote mounted to either the fender well or
firewall, to insulate from vibration. Failure to remote-locate pressure senders on such an application could result in gauge failure and potential damage to vehicle and/or operator injury. Braided stainless steel lines are sold separately by Auto Meter, and can be used to accomplish this. Sender features 1⁄8" NPT male fitting and comes with 1⁄4" NPT adapter. Sender should automatically be grounded when installed. If not, or if remote relocation of sender is required, a ground connection to sender "body" may need to be made.
4. Route 18-gage twin conductor wire through firewall using grommet. Connect one end to
terminal post on pressure sender, and opposite end to sender (S) terminal on back of gauge.
CAUTION: Be careful not to touch ignition wire to the sender (S) terminal on back of gauge or
the sender may be damaged.
5. Connect wire from center terminal GND (-) on back of gauge to good engine ground near
sender.
6. Connect wire from ignition switch to ignition I (+) terminal on back of gauge.
7. Install the light in the socket on the rear of the gauge and connect one wire to the dash
lighting circuit or other 12V power source.
So I thought that basically on an LS1 that we just connected the sender to the end of the fuel rail. Is it that easy?
On the oil, do I really need to tap my pan? With 100k, my car does not leak one drop of fluid. So i don't wanna open the flood gates if I am putting a freaking hole in my pan.
Thoughts???
Thank you!!
08-28-2007, 04:25 PM
#4
Originally Posted by SchultzLT1
yeah i wouldnt want to tap my oil pan either. I'm picking 3 guages and I think thats why I DONT wanna get oil temp.
After reading another thread here, I am considering water temp since ours is a dummy light. I am a few years out from boost
