Edrummr

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for looking,
Long time reader, first time posting...

Please help me select a cam for my Camaro. Specs are as follows:
TSP lid, LS6 intake, Stock heads, 2001 exhaust manifolds, ORY, Magnaflow cat-back, M6, 342 gears, daily driver.

I need to pass CA emissions (w/ stock Y-pipe)
I'd like to retain good fuel economy.
I want to keep the extended warranty. (I'll keep the stocker around)
I'd like to keep as much of my low/mid torque as possible.

So.. my REAL question is: Since I'm in CA and I won't be running LT's, will I be best off with something like a 224/224 on 114 or should I go for a similar cam with a split duration (like the stock LS1/6 cam's) which give the exhaust a bit more duration to help compensate for the stock exhaust manifolds. All advice welcome!!!

BTW, any advice on tuning, springs, retainers, pushrods, ramps/profiles, shops welcome!!! (I'm in the SF Bay area; thinking of getting this done at Black Magic Racing).

THANKS AGAIN!!!

jrp

iTrader: (16)

you hit it on the nail, get the TR 224/224 114, its been proven to pass cali smog with an easy tune and it makes great power. you might be able to get away with the 112 on a good tune.

the stock manifolds will be your bottle neck though.

as far as valve train i'd go with a single spring (comps 918's, manley's, ect) and tit. retainers. you can reuse stock pushrods it you'd like.

TR is having there cam and valvetrain sale right now until the 10/31. i'd jump on it before times up.

with the 224 114 you should be able to get away with the stock tune, to get full advantage of the cam you should get tuning done to smooth things out (i.e idle, afr, ect). dyno tuning will run you about 500-700 and most shops will charge 400+ for a cam install.

if your just doing a cam/spring swap and your semi-mechanically inclind you can do it yourself and save alot of money. its not very hard and its educational and there are plenty of walk throughs to help you get through it.

Edrummr

iTrader: (1)

Thanks JRP. I'd love to do this myself, but the landlord frowns on cam swaps in the carports... Apparently Black Magic Racing will discount the install if I assist them!

Any other advice in regards to selecting a cam with good fuel economy and that maintains good low end torque?

Again, the cam's environment:
TSP lid->LS6 intake->Stock LS1 Heads->Stock 2001 Manifolds->ORY->Magnaflow cat-back. M6, 3.42

Might a standard split duration cam be beneficial since the stock ex. manifolds are retained? I want to optimize the cam for this system. It's also important to maintain low end torque but pull up to redline.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

well since were in cali were pretty limited on our cam choices if you dont want to cam swap come emmissions time. thats why i say go with the TR224 114, install it and call it a day.

the 224 makes nice mid-top range, from dyno's i've seen theres 300rwtq @ 2.5k and 350rwtq@3.5 and doesnt drop off till about 6k.

Tin Indian

That TR224 will be right on the edge as far as passing the Ca. emission roller test.

I would look closely at a TR220 with a 114 LSA.

But, it's up to you. Your the one with the dice in your hands. You flunk that test, and you now are in a real situation....

P.S. And I can tell you, the TR220 will not idle like a stock cam. And it will have the infamous "sewing machine sound".

The TR224? Even more so. (if your worried about your warranty)

Edrummr

iTrader: (1)

Thanks a lot for the info and advice guys.
I don't want to get too deep in the emissions danger zone and since I won't be running LT's, I may be favoring a cam that works well with the stock tune on a 2001 LS1 with a freed up intake & exhaust. That's a lot of green for a tune especially with such light modification.
Back to the drawing board.
New to CA. Not good at this game yet.
Any additional advice that might assist my decision still welcome.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

thing about living in cali and modding your car is you gotta decide what route you want to take. all emissions legal and leaving lots of HP on the table or doing what you want for 725 days out of the 2yrs and then just swapping stuff when it comes times for emmisions.

going the full emissions complient route cost almost dollar for dollar what it does to go tthe non emissions route. shorties which arent eve worth it will run you 600+ if you go jba or bkk. for that price you could of gone with some hooker, pacesetter, or jet hot long tubes. and you'd be making more power and sound meaner.

same deal with the cam; an emissions complient 216/218-220/220 will cost you the same to buy, install, ect as it would a bigger cam.

i still think its easier to buy what you want and keep the stock manifolds, cam, y-pipe, and cats and just swap them a few days before emissions then it is to try and go the fully complient route.

but thats just me :shrug: