CamaroSS01

First off, Im a noobie, but a long time reader and learner. I've been reading all the search topics for a few days and wanted some more recent info.

Finally with the Eagle stuff coming out, it's actually feasible to do a stroker of some sort. I don't see hardly any info on the 408/9 setup... It is a bad motor combination? I see MTI sells it, but I can't find any results on one. I'm looking for a street fun motor as I might go to the track twice a year. I know the 408/9 will have to be an iron block so the added weight thing, but I'm sure the better TQ curve would make up for the extra 60-70 lbs, or I could do a K-member and make up most of it

I'm looking for the better of the 3 combinations and if the gains are worth the extra money or is it better to just keep my H/C 346?

monkeyboy

stokers are nice, but have you considered an all bore motor?

monkeyboy

oh ,by the way, welcome aboard.

CamaroSS01

Thanks Monkeyboy

I haven't considered an all bore motor as I don't want to pay the $2k for a resleeved block. It just isnt worth it IMHO. I know a used 6.0 block with machine work done up will still be way cheaper than a resleeved block that isnt nitrous capable as I may play with the giggle gas some for kicks.

Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

Go with the big cubed 409 ironblock with 4.00 stroker crank. This motor would flat out rock and could handle a BIG SHOT of N20 or other type of F/I.

There is no replacement for displacement not to mention that a 409 is CLASSIC CHEVY PERFORMER. Torque wins races and the extra torque made throughtout the entire rpm band on the 409 will more than make up for the 75 extra lbs on the front end. Plus, with a 409 you will overbore only to 4.030 leaving alot of room for rebuilds and extra durability/strength with the block!

Also, don't go over a 4.00 crank/stroke on the ironblock motor as the geometry of the motor will be wrong with any stroke greater than 4.00. Any bigger stroke would most likely cause both oil consumption and crank reluctor wheel problems! i have been there and done that and its not fun!

monkeyboy

Camss, i think paying 2k for a resleeved block is nuts also, thats why you need someone who can do it for half the price. as far as spraying a sleeved block, ARE is a good testament to their worthiness.

if you consider the cost of getting a crank, machine work, the iron block, and internals, its almost the same as a resleeved block....

CamaroSS01

Any more info about the 408/9 setup?

monkeyboy

i have been thinking about your combo all day ironically. i think it would be a wise choice if using spray. also, my friend converted to the iron block,and after removing the sway bar, the car was only like 25-30lbs heavier than before. it kinda motivates me to go that route also, but i am still undecided.

CamaroSS01

I don't want to remove any swaybars as I like an all around performer. Im really leaning toward doing the 408 setup. It seems that it would work very well

Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

Do the 408/409. The most important thing would be to get it built by a top tuner or someone who REALLY knows what he is doing with LS1/6 motors and remember the power will ultimately be made by the heads with proper selection of aggressive cam matched to the heads. Get the best ported stage III LS6 heads that you can afford and seek your builders adice on proper aggressive cam selection to meet your needs etc. And of coure, getting a professional tune with ls1 edit on a wide band dyno will be very important to extract all the power out of your set up! OUt of curosity, is the motor going to stay N/A or is it going to get a bit of the laughing gas Go with the most cubes you can get and remember the heads and cam are where the power is!

Feel free to send me a private message for additonal info and recommendations, etc. and i also recommend you go with a tuner who is closer to you and in a couple of hours driving distance from you b/c the long distance relationship with your tuner can really suck!

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Welcome aboard.

With the 409 you'll still be spending ~$2000 for a 4 inch crank and rotating assembly. You'll also spend ~$450 on the iron block. Your heads will need to be opened up some for the iron blocks bigger 4.0 to 4.030 bore, depending on what you select. Your heads will also need 2.05 intake valves etc if you already don't have them to really take advantage of the bigger bore. Say $2500 for parts and stuff plus labor, machine work etc to assemble it. I'm not sure what set the heads up for 2.05's would cost.

All of the above also applies to a 383 Big Bore plus sleeving cost. Say another $1500 to $2000 depending on who and where the work is done. Say $4000 to $4500 plus modifing the heads for 2.05 valves and add in labor etc.

382 Stroker $2000 or so for the rotating assembly. Use your heads as is. Labor to assemble.

The stroker would probably be the most cost effective for the power and least weight for your application. The new LSX intake added later on should help the stroker make better stockers that have the LS6 intake.

If you raced alot and wanted to rev high in the rpms, I'd favor the big bore.

CamaroSS01

Thanks MTI 427 and 99 Black Bird

I have the Absolute stage 2 heads now so the heads are a very good head. I will be building this myself as I have alot of experince with the LSx motor

I don't really want to do an all bore as Im not too comfortable with resleeving a block as I may spray it sometime for fun and don't want to worry about any type of sleeve problem.

I'm looking more for a stroker now. I have a forged 348 (3.905 bore) at the moment, so no matter what I decide to build, I'll have to get another block and I dont want to get the $2k resleeved block.