Need help for new motor
#1
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Need help for new motor
I need some help on gettin a new motor and i have no idea what to get because I just blew my motor. I was thinkin of gettin a just a stock ls1 shortblock and getting Patriot heads, TSP 231/237 cam, yanks converter, pacesetter headers, and some other stuff that i cant think of right now. Im going to be doing this myself in my own garage (17 yr old) and the motor is already pulled out and stripped. My goal is just to have a fast street/strip car so Im not sure which way to go and I have about 5 grand to spend.
My other idea was to just get a 6.0 iron block and bore it out but I have no idea on what parts to get? So If yall can I need help on what parts to get for the 6.0 iron block or the ls1 shortblock and what prices im lookin at to spend. Also where can I get any information on building the motor?
My other idea was to just get a 6.0 iron block and bore it out but I have no idea on what parts to get? So If yall can I need help on what parts to get for the 6.0 iron block or the ls1 shortblock and what prices im lookin at to spend. Also where can I get any information on building the motor?
Last edited by UGotBeaT; 11-30-2003 at 02:00 PM.
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Originally Posted by jrp
how'd you blow your engine? are any parts salvagible (sp)
I need help please
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If it were me, I would rebuild the thing and get the other bolt-on parts, esp a new throttle cable. I do not think that a performance engine "including" is possible on 5,000 dollar budget. If you build a SOLID engine including heads and cam you are out the total 5,000. Factor in the rest of the stuff and your 5000 is not even close. Just rebuilding it with heads and cam you should be good to go and be able to afford a few of the bolt-ons.
Question: Why didn't you turn your car off if the throttle was stuck and it was bouncing of the rev limiter? Or was it your foot that was stuck and not the throttle, which ever way that story sucks hope it all turns out good.
and getting Patriot heads, TSP 231/237 cam, yanks converter, pacesetter headers, and some other stuff
Question: Why didn't you turn your car off if the throttle was stuck and it was bouncing of the rev limiter? Or was it your foot that was stuck and not the throttle, which ever way that story sucks hope it all turns out good.
#6
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We can get you setup with a basic rebuild and a decent set of heads. But you are pushing the $5000 limit there. The other boltons may need to wait. Give me a call and maybe I can help spec it out.
Nate
Nate
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If the block and crank are ok why not just buy some eagle rods (6.125), diamond pistons (3.905), get some used stage 2 heads off the board, and the TSP cam on sale. Replace the springs on the heads with a set of rev 1116 duals, kateck oil pump, double roller chain, and you should be pretty well set.
eagle rods-600
pistons, rings- 800
machine work balance-500
used stage 2 heads- 1500
oil pump- 115
double roller- 120
bearings- 200
felpro head gaskets- 50
misc gaskets- 100
TSP 231/237 cam kit- 700
used lt headers y-pipe- 600
What I'm saying is that if you pick up the deals, and buy some quality used parts you could build it for 5-6k. This is assuming that you will do all the labor and install.
eagle rods-600
pistons, rings- 800
machine work balance-500
used stage 2 heads- 1500
oil pump- 115
double roller- 120
bearings- 200
felpro head gaskets- 50
misc gaskets- 100
TSP 231/237 cam kit- 700
used lt headers y-pipe- 600
What I'm saying is that if you pick up the deals, and buy some quality used parts you could build it for 5-6k. This is assuming that you will do all the labor and install.
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#8
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well I think my crank is alright but the piston was kinda of shoved into the cylinder wall wouldnt I have to get it resleeved or just bore it out?
I figured i can get a used 6.0 liter iron block used for about 300-400 where I live and bore it out and buy new pistons and rods and bearings. Wont my stock crank fit it and I looked at the tsp h/c package on their webstie for liek 1800
6.0 iron block - 300
eagle rods - 800
pistons, rings - 600
machine work - 500
h/c package - 1800
tsp ported oil pump - 120?
bearings - 200
head gaskets - 50
other gaskets - 100
pacsetter headers - 340
$4810......prolly a little over 5 grand.
black~2000~z28 - i dunno it was on for 5 seconds and I shut it off and put the throttle cable back on and everything was fine and next morning it started as a little knock and so i just left it at my friends house and we got outta school and then i turned it on and the knock was 10 times louder.
I figured i can get a used 6.0 liter iron block used for about 300-400 where I live and bore it out and buy new pistons and rods and bearings. Wont my stock crank fit it and I looked at the tsp h/c package on their webstie for liek 1800
6.0 iron block - 300
eagle rods - 800
pistons, rings - 600
machine work - 500
h/c package - 1800
tsp ported oil pump - 120?
bearings - 200
head gaskets - 50
other gaskets - 100
pacsetter headers - 340
$4810......prolly a little over 5 grand.
black~2000~z28 - i dunno it was on for 5 seconds and I shut it off and put the throttle cable back on and everything was fine and next morning it started as a little knock and so i just left it at my friends house and we got outta school and then i turned it on and the knock was 10 times louder.
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ok nm about that iron block idea i took off that piston that was wedged into the cylinder wall and it seems that i could just get it bored out wihtout havin to resleeve it.
Whats the most I can bore it out and then what size of pistons do I have to get?
Whats the most I can bore it out and then what size of pistons do I have to get?
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It will cost a lot of extra cash for more machine work if you do the iron block. I would stick to the alluminum idea. Probably need to buy a used block for about $300. All it would need is a hone to 3.905 bore for clean up and inspected for cracks, main alignment and deck straightness. You will also need main and head bolts or studs. Stay with the aluminum and save the weight. It is not worth the weight of the iron unless you plan for big displacemnet and or dp nitrous. Looks like you have already found some good deals on parts.
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just wondering but why cant I bore my motor out?
And If I get a stroker kit thats kind of pushin my limit because I want h/c to. Also is there like a step by step info on rebuildin an LS1?
And If I get a stroker kit thats kind of pushin my limit because I want h/c to. Also is there like a step by step info on rebuildin an LS1?
#14
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Usually a .005" or .010" cleanup will make the cylinders look like new, unless there is a crack or some other damage. I'd run stock rods with ARP rod bolts, a set of Diamond forged pistons for the matching oversize you need. Its always ends up a little more than expected, there is always something you forget!
Another option would be getting a used engine or shortblock. I think GMMG had a few low-mile takeout engines for a decent price from their conversion cars.
Another option would be getting a used engine or shortblock. I think GMMG had a few low-mile takeout engines for a decent price from their conversion cars.
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Well Ive found a low mileage 6.0 iron block fully assembled with heads and intake where I live for pretty cheap.
I was wondering If I drop that in my t/a and put some ls6 ported heads and a tsp 231/237 cam and other bolt ons and a stock bottom end....will I be pushing more hp then my stock ls1 or will I have to bore it out and rebuild my bottom end?
I was wondering If I drop that in my t/a and put some ls6 ported heads and a tsp 231/237 cam and other bolt ons and a stock bottom end....will I be pushing more hp then my stock ls1 or will I have to bore it out and rebuild my bottom end?