600HP internals???
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600HP internals???
Hey guys, new to this board, and to LS engines, but not to high performance car builds. I have a chance to build a 99 Vette, so I will be working with the LS1.
The engine is gonna be a custom twin turbo 347, which we hope to make 600hp with.
To strenthen the engine up, billet main caps and studs are gonna be used. I know the LS1 is a pretty stout piece, but I'm gonna put a full new rotating assembly in it to have piece of mind.
The Lunati rotating assemblies looks like what I need, has everyone had a good dealings with these kits?
Now since I haven't dealt with the LS's before, I have a question about their oiling systems. Ive heard of upgrading to the LS6 pump, but what else is a common mod to help enchance oiling? Dry sumping is an option, as the turbo's will be fed by a seperate tank and pump assembly, so it may be easier to just pump it all into one system.
Last question is bout the new AFR LS heads. The flow numbers are convincing, but has anyone any realworld experience?
Thanks in advance, I really look forward into getting to this engine, cause I've driven the it stock and its great.
Hunter
The engine is gonna be a custom twin turbo 347, which we hope to make 600hp with.
To strenthen the engine up, billet main caps and studs are gonna be used. I know the LS1 is a pretty stout piece, but I'm gonna put a full new rotating assembly in it to have piece of mind.
The Lunati rotating assemblies looks like what I need, has everyone had a good dealings with these kits?
Now since I haven't dealt with the LS's before, I have a question about their oiling systems. Ive heard of upgrading to the LS6 pump, but what else is a common mod to help enchance oiling? Dry sumping is an option, as the turbo's will be fed by a seperate tank and pump assembly, so it may be easier to just pump it all into one system.
Last question is bout the new AFR LS heads. The flow numbers are convincing, but has anyone any realworld experience?
Thanks in advance, I really look forward into getting to this engine, cause I've driven the it stock and its great.
Hunter
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I believe, generally the Lunati r.a.'s are pretty well liked
As for oiling, someone can correct if im wrong, but the LS6 block has much better oil passages over the LS1's. So that could be considered an oil upgrade kinda. A ported LS6 pump should oil the motor fine though, as long as its installed properly.
As for oiling, someone can correct if im wrong, but the LS6 block has much better oil passages over the LS1's. So that could be considered an oil upgrade kinda. A ported LS6 pump should oil the motor fine though, as long as its installed properly.
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Hmmm well as much as I would love to buy a LS6 block, just not practical for me. The pump is something I will do unless I convert to dry sump.
The Lunati set is what I think I will be doing.
Thanks
Hunter
The Lunati set is what I think I will be doing.
Thanks
Hunter
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Read up in the forced induction section, maybe do a few searches.
completely stock block incon twins make 600rwhp with tuning and injectors. the crank is considered good to at least 700rwhp. But, rod bolts are a weak link. Most people replace the rods while the engine is open. forged rods & pistons, along with massaged heads and a turbo cam have produced around 700 rwhp. Oh, don't forget the fueling upgrades (pump & referenced fpr).
good luck with your project.
completely stock block incon twins make 600rwhp with tuning and injectors. the crank is considered good to at least 700rwhp. But, rod bolts are a weak link. Most people replace the rods while the engine is open. forged rods & pistons, along with massaged heads and a turbo cam have produced around 700 rwhp. Oh, don't forget the fueling upgrades (pump & referenced fpr).
good luck with your project.
#5
You can't go wrong with the Airflow Research heads. They have good thick decks so you won't be wasting gaskets. I would get your block o-ringed, and blueprinted.I'd go with a low drag material in the block sleeves. I'd run a good roller cam. For oil pumps, I would just get a new one blueprinted, but if you are going to go to the dry sump that's more preferrable. I'd get my rods x-rayed,but a good aftermarket rod is better. I'd use narrow low tension rings with a tight ring package for reduced drag. Then you can run a crankcase evac system with the dry sump.For fuel lines, I'd go to a -10 size line, with a high flow filter. I'd use Magnecor plug wires also. Good Luck and may the Blessed Mother of Acceleration smile kindly on your endeavor.
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I would stick with the stock crank. Just get it kryo treated and polish the journals. Lunati pro billet rods and some diamond, lunati, ross or je pistons to 0 deck height with a nice dish. Any ported heads and and nice split cam and you should easily make that kind of power. I use the katech oil pump that is ported, and it works great. The billet mains are over kill in my oppinion. The six bolt stock mains have never been a problem running lots of power. Just get high strength studs for the heads, and regular arp studs for the mains. Dry sump would be sweet too. I agree with the vacuum pump idea for better ring sealing.