Synthetic Break in Oil?
03-30-2010, 10:56 PM
#1
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Synthetic Break in Oil? Is Mobil1 conventional 10w-40 a good oil to get the rings seated properly? I should not use synthetic from what I've been hearing. Am I right? Thanks guys
03-30-2010, 11:18 PM
#2
No synthetic break in oil what so ever. You need a good API oil like Valvoline, Shell and so on. Get a few good 4K RPM runs in hard and fast let the engine come back and coast in gear consecutively this helps. What you are doing is creating a vacuum and all the **** that comes from breaking in the rings will come with the oil. Go home change the oil with the same oil u used run it for 300 to 400 miles then change the oil again. After that use the same oil or a good 30 weight oil for about 1500 miles change the oil to a good synthetic 5/30 or 10/40 what ever your journals/engine are set up for and run an Amsoil, Redline or Castrol Edge, Mobile 1 etc etc.
My opinion only am sure there are many more out there.
you will need a good micro oil filter also for this break in period.
My opinion only am sure there are many more out there.
you will need a good micro oil filter also for this break in period.
03-31-2010, 11:51 PM
#5
People use either 10W30 or 10W40. I have been taught to use the 10W30 over the years. A lot of the old school guys use it because as they say...
It breaks in the cylinder wall just right. It helps breaks the peaks and gets you that perfect oil retention. You have to make sure that when you are breaking in the peaks after the honing that you don't leave the peeks too high or you will have too much oil retention on the wall,(can be caused by an oil that is too thick) then there is the "rolling over" of peaks, meaning the peaks get into the grooves and call what I said before "Glazing" that is what causes your blow-by (can be caused by too thin of oil).
Now people use either one and it is by choice and prefer-ability. Like I said I am just giving you my personal opinion.
04-01-2010, 07:55 AM
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Agreed. I'm no lubrication engineer, but I know what I see when I rub synthetic oils between my fingers compared to what I see with conventional oils. The synthetic seems to dry up as you roll your fingers around and no oily film is left. The conventional oil seems to stick better. If I was an oil seal in an engine, I would want oil sticking to me.
Another observation, take a smudge of oil and place it on a flat piece of metal and hit it with a hammer. Some oils dispate and leave no film at all while others retain their film.
I've been known to come back from the store with 20+ brands and weights of oil to see which ones leave the best oil films under heat and pressure. There is no single "fits all" type or brand of oil. Regardless of price, what I use in my drag cars I would not use in my truck and what I use in my truck I would not use in my tractor, etc...It all depends on application.
Another observation, take a smudge of oil and place it on a flat piece of metal and hit it with a hammer. Some oils dispate and leave no film at all while others retain their film.
I've been known to come back from the store with 20+ brands and weights of oil to see which ones leave the best oil films under heat and pressure. There is no single "fits all" type or brand of oil. Regardless of price, what I use in my drag cars I would not use in my truck and what I use in my truck I would not use in my tractor, etc...It all depends on application.
04-01-2010, 08:03 PM
#7
Agreed. I'm no lubrication engineer, but I know what I see when I rub synthetic oils between my fingers compared to what I see with conventional oils. The synthetic seems to dry up as you roll your fingers around and no oily film is left. The conventional oil seems to stick better. If I was an oil seal in an engine, I would want oil sticking to me.
Another observation, take a smudge of oil and place it on a flat piece of metal and hit it with a hammer. Some oils dispate and leave no film at all while others retain their film.
I've been known to come back from the store with 20+ brands and weights of oil to see which ones leave the best oil films under heat and pressure. There is no single "fits all" type or brand of oil. Regardless of price, what I use in my drag cars I would not use in my truck and what I use in my truck I would not use in my tractor, etc...It all depends on application.
Another observation, take a smudge of oil and place it on a flat piece of metal and hit it with a hammer. Some oils dispate and leave no film at all while others retain their film.
I've been known to come back from the store with 20+ brands and weights of oil to see which ones leave the best oil films under heat and pressure. There is no single "fits all" type or brand of oil. Regardless of price, what I use in my drag cars I would not use in my truck and what I use in my truck I would not use in my tractor, etc...It all depends on application.
Not to be a dick but this is completely ridiculous when discussing lubricants. For example a polyol ester synthetic(Group V) has many more times the polarity (adhesion to metal) than any conventional could ever hope for. You cannot judge a lubes abilities by rubbing them between your fingers. Bear in mind that not all synthetics are created equal and some(group III especially) have poor polarity in some cases when compared to true synthetics like Redline or Motul. The esters in these two is what gives them the extra polarity. Your last statement was spot on.
