new motor and i cant get oil pressure
04-30-2010, 11:53 PM
#1
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new motor and i cant get oil pressure just put my new motor in and was crankin it with the fuel pump relay out till it built some oil pressure and it never did. so my boss who is a mechanic said just start it and see if it gets pressure.. it never did so we shut it off real quick.. so i took the stock sending unit out and hooked up a mechanical oil pressure gauge.. and the line doesnt even fill up with oil.. whats going on here?
tonight i pulled the front cover off and pulled to pump out and tried priming it, even though i was told you dont have to, and it still has nothing. is it just a junk pump? i got it off danhr on here its a ported shimed pump. is there something im over looking or not doing?
tonight i pulled the front cover off and pulled to pump out and tried priming it, even though i was told you dont have to, and it still has nothing. is it just a junk pump? i got it off danhr on here its a ported shimed pump. is there something im over looking or not doing?
05-02-2010, 10:16 AM
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this was a brand new block. and looking at it and talking to my machine shop i found that the one hole by the oil pump did not have the freeze plug installed.. so theres another one in the rear as well? is it behind the rear cover? so i guess if i plug the front one and still dont have pressure then ill have to pull the engine and plug one in the back that wasnt plugged.. this is ridiculous.. i could have put 10 motors in, in the time ive worked on this one..
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05-02-2010, 10:32 AM
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you mentioned that barbell thing is in the back of the block.. i just did a general search and found this article. this article states that that barbell is located in the front?
On the thread of little engine-building details for the LS-series engines, there is an oil diverter valve in the main oil galley at the front of the engine that is usually removed when the block is cleaned or hot-tanked. It’s easy to lose this little rascal, and the engine won’t make oil pressure without it. All LS-series engines require this valve, often called a barbell because it looks like a miniature plastic version of what weight lifters play with. If you are building an LS-series engine with a brand-new block, there are actually several small pieces, plugs, and other little gems that you’ll need to complete the assembly. GM Performance Parts sells a block completion kit (PN 19153789, GM list is $348.57
On the thread of little engine-building details for the LS-series engines, there is an oil diverter valve in the main oil galley at the front of the engine that is usually removed when the block is cleaned or hot-tanked. It’s easy to lose this little rascal, and the engine won’t make oil pressure without it. All LS-series engines require this valve, often called a barbell because it looks like a miniature plastic version of what weight lifters play with. If you are building an LS-series engine with a brand-new block, there are actually several small pieces, plugs, and other little gems that you’ll need to complete the assembly. GM Performance Parts sells a block completion kit (PN 19153789, GM list is $348.57
05-02-2010, 03:01 PM
#10
Hope I am not hijacking the thread, but I have a similar problem. '00 LS1 block freshened up with pistons and rods for a turbo build. Reused the oil pump and replaced the pickup o-ring. Just above 0psi at idle and about 35psi at 2000, with a tick at idle. Did not know about that plug and not sure if it was reinstalled by the shop. Just pulled the pump to replace it but nothing looks out of the ordinary at the front. Also has a mysterious oil leak at the 2 front pan bolts that go into the block. Oil seems to be wicking down the bolts and no type of sealant will stop it. Seems like the leak is pressurized, which is hard to see how.
Can someone post a pic of a block showing exactly where the plug goes goes? That would be greatly appreciated.
Appreciate any feedback and I think the OP might benefit from this too.
Can someone post a pic of a block showing exactly where the plug goes goes? That would be greatly appreciated.
Appreciate any feedback and I think the OP might benefit from this too.
05-02-2010, 04:40 PM
#11
Pressure problem sounds like the o-ring, i bet its gone. If you didnt have the plug you would have 0 pressure.
Thread sealer should be all you need for the bolts
Jay
Thread sealer should be all you need for the bolts
Jay
Hope I am not hijacking the thread, but I have a similar problem. '00 LS1 block freshened up with pistons and rods for a turbo build. Reused the oil pump and replaced the pickup o-ring. Just above 0psi at idle and about 35psi at 2000, with a tick at idle. Did not know about that plug and not sure if it was reinstalled by the shop. Just pulled the pump to replace it but nothing looks out of the ordinary at the front. Also has a mysterious oil leak at the 2 front pan bolts that go into the block. Oil seems to be wicking down the bolts and no type of sealant will stop it. Seems like the leak is pressurized, which is hard to see how.
Can someone post a pic of a block showing exactly where the plug goes goes? That would be greatly appreciated.
Appreciate any feedback and I think the OP might benefit from this too.
Can someone post a pic of a block showing exactly where the plug goes goes? That would be greatly appreciated.
Appreciate any feedback and I think the OP might benefit from this too.
05-03-2010, 08:34 AM
#14
Very informative post for the LS newbs.
Mine definitely has the o-ring (brand new) and the front plug. All indications now point to the barbell not installed. Still don't understand the persistent leak from the 2 front bolts and why only those 2.
Once again, thanks for the help.
Mine definitely has the o-ring (brand new) and the front plug. All indications now point to the barbell not installed. Still don't understand the persistent leak from the 2 front bolts and why only those 2.
Once again, thanks for the help.
05-03-2010, 09:29 AM
#15
Very informative post for the LS newbs.
Mine definitely has the o-ring (brand new) and the front plug. All indications now point to the barbell not installed. Still don't understand the persistent leak from the 2 front bolts and why only those 2.
Once again, thanks for the help.
Mine definitely has the o-ring (brand new) and the front plug. All indications now point to the barbell not installed. Still don't understand the persistent leak from the 2 front bolts and why only those 2.
Once again, thanks for the help.
Jay
05-03-2010, 07:52 PM
#17
With either of the galleys not in the motor does not have a chance to pressurize the oil delivery passages thru the block, it will just pump it right back into the pan, So they must be installed. Bad thing is the only way to tell if the plugs are there is to remove the covers, The rear barbell is a plastic piece thats about 2 inches long and looks just like a barbell, If you pull the cover You will see a plastic piece in the hole, IF no piece There is the problem, If that is not it You need to pull the engine and see what is going on. If you loosen the oil pump tube bolt and wiggle it down then you can see if the oil pump oring is there It is possible for that to be the problem.
05-04-2010, 04:27 PM
#18
I now know for sure what the issues were with my engine. Dropped the tranny/clutch assembly and found that the machinist did not put the "barbell" back in and I was not LSx-aware enough to realize it was missing. The persistent oil leak at the 2 front bolts that go into the block was caused by cracks in the pan rail at those bolt holes. I was very careful in the procedure for bolting/torquing the pan and was surprised to see that. Took it to my machine shop to see if it could be repaired and he advised against reusing it. Seems that pan had previous repair done to that area of the rail, and the rail was milled but is not perfectly flat as can be seen in the pic. Probably had a hairline crack when I got it, hidden by the gasket and it got progressively worse when torqued.
Bummer, but at least they are no longer a mystery. Now I need a pan and have to redo the turbo drain.
Thanks to all who chimed in and hope others benefit from this lesson.
Bummer, but at least they are no longer a mystery. Now I need a pan and have to redo the turbo drain.
Thanks to all who chimed in and hope others benefit from this lesson.
05-04-2010, 04:53 PM
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Misalignment of the front cover can also cause the oilpan rail to crack be sure that front cover is on the bllock dead nuts where it should be. Bottom of cover and block should be flush
