joelamite

iTrader: (1)

? anybody ever had any experience with bringing these motors back from the dead? I got a super crazy deal on a 5.3 with only 1k miles on it from a truck that was wrecked 5 years ago new. The engine was stored inside in a warehouse. The thing looks like I just uncrated it, came with the VIN history etc...

I have had experience bringing back old motors in the past, some that have sat for longer than this, I know the basics, just never on anything this new.


Thanks in advance for any help!

mikieb5105

spray a little oil in the cylinders and clean the injectors in seafoam

Isolde

iTrader: (4)

Not good enough. You need to borrow a borescope or pull both heads. If there's rust on the cylinder walls, then even squirting oil in the spark plug holes won't save you.
I have a pic somewhere of what happened to 5.3 cylinder walls after just 3 months of sitting, in a dry garage. Not climate controlled, but not exposed to rain or snow.

joelamite

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info..,
Springs? Are these ok to be compressed for the past 5 years?

Isolde. I have been on both side of this.., The 52 Pontiac that I just swapped an LQ4 in, had not nun since 84, the I8 is in great shape... I took it apart as I had never seen the inside of an old L head. Perfect actually... when i can get out of the racecar crap I want to put that I8 in a hot rod with MS FI.
62 Volvo, agian out of service for some decades, great shape...
Only new car...300Zx TT Wrecked 3 years ago at VIR, started last week with a new battery like I ran it yesterday.
But...
I have had the same horror stories that would proove these an anomoly. Nissan 3.3 with rings stuck to the rusty cyl walls.... would not turn over with a 4 ft breaker bar and me standing on it heads off and oil etc...

I'll report the findings as you have great advise on checking the bore with a scope.
Thanks!
I hope my results = +

Springs?

Isolde

iTrader: (4)

Springs are actually a wear item anyway, and stockers aren't good for very much lift. Plus you can get a new set of LS6 springs delivered for under $70, and they're good to 0.570" valve lift.
I'd install the new LS6 springs, it's good insurance, it's a cheap upgrade, and it's peace of mind. Check the valve seals while you're at it. They should be okay, but what if they're not? Now would be easiest.
After all, if you can't afford to do it right the first time, you sure can't afford to do it a second time.
You can get good used LQ4 cams for nearly free, this would be a good time to install one. They don't need LS6 springs, and they're what GMPP is using in the 327 HP 5.3 crate engines.
I have checked springs that sat open for 11 years, but they already had high miles on them. Even so, the ones that sat open not only tested low, they had taken a permanently shorter set.
That was in an older 350, that sat twice as long, but even so, same symptoms, just to a greater extent.

Fb0dy0nly

iTrader: (10)

Replace all valvetrain except rocker arms.
These are cheap and easy to find parts anyways and good insurance.
I would just take it apart like any motor you are going thru and replace all gaskets, seals and bearings. Id run some ARP hardware in the important spots and like others have said, just make sure there are no cracks, chips or rust inside.
Id run some ls6 stuff if you can find it for a good price. Good luck with the build

joelamite

iTrader: (1)

Thanks!

LS6 springs check...

LQ4 cam... Man great info! I have one sitting on the shelf from my "other build"

We have a "snow day" today so I will try to get into the garage and snap some pictures.

I also plan on rear main, front crank/cover valve covers and oil pan. as I am replacing the pan anyway.

The home for this motor will eventually be in my 62 C10.
Got the body work completed, and have the lincoln mark 8 aluminium IRS ready to go in.

Any luck on 4l60's that have sat for this amount of time?
I can get the trans that came off the back of this motor as well...