Major problem. Head stud broken below deck. Please help!
#1
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Major problem. Head stud broken below deck. Please help!
I was wrapping up a cam swap and valvetrain upgrade last night and had a new ARP head stud break off below the block when I was putting the driver's cylinder head back on. It snapped about an inch below the deck. I don't understand how or why it happened. I did the right torque sequence according to AllData and had all of the bolts and holes perfectly clean and used the suppplied thread lubricant. The only explanation I can come up with is a defective bolt.
Regardless, I'm screwed right now and I don't have any clue how to get this thing out of my block. Somebody please help me out here.
Regardless, I'm screwed right now and I don't have any clue how to get this thing out of my block. Somebody please help me out here.
#3
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Use one of the ez out that you can find at sears or a tool store. Use a drill. It's gonna be tough to get considering that it's torqued in there pretty good and a bit down in the hole. If that doesn't work, you'll have to take it to a machine shop and have them get it out.
#4
He said its a stud. The studs are just supposed to be installed hand tight, I would try the above mentioned methods, it should have no pressure on it and should back right out.
#5
Some times a sharp PICK can be used to remove it. If it is bottomed out or on the shoulder it is going to be mighty tough. Normally a stud will back out nicely because they are not bottomed out.
#6
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Good news! I went at it with a left hand drill bit. It caught a bite and backed it out like butter. It definitely was a faulty part. You can tell by how it broke.
#7
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I broke a ARP head bolt and it was not fun to take out... not impossible but it would have been a lot easier to back out if the thing wasn't a hardened ARP bolt lol.
Glad you got it out, with mine I had to drill it out over a few evenings.
Glad you got it out, with mine I had to drill it out over a few evenings.
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#12
Totally different procedure from factory specks TTY
FROM MY ALL-DATA
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Tighten the cylinder head bolts.
9.1. Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a first pass in sequence to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) .
9.2. Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a second pass in sequence to 90° using the J 36660-A.
9.3. Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1-8) to 90° and the M11 cylinder head bolts (9 and 10) to 50° a final pass in sequence using J 36660-A.
9.4. Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (11-15) to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) . Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward tightening all of the bolts.
FROM MY ALL-DATA
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Tighten the cylinder head bolts.
9.1. Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a first pass in sequence to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) .
9.2. Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a second pass in sequence to 90° using the J 36660-A.
9.3. Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1-8) to 90° and the M11 cylinder head bolts (9 and 10) to 50° a final pass in sequence using J 36660-A.
9.4. Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (11-15) to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) . Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward tightening all of the bolts.
#15
TECH Senior Member
If he used the alldata specs on the other studs then there is a good change they are also fubar;
the problem is the user's faulty selection of procedure/spec... the alldata procedure/spec is not at fault (how does it know if he's not using TTY bolts).
the problem is the user's faulty selection of procedure/spec... the alldata procedure/spec is not at fault (how does it know if he's not using TTY bolts).
Last edited by joecar; 06-19-2012 at 04:38 PM.
#20
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Just out of curiosity, was this an aluminum, or iron block?