DREAMZ28

iTrader: (1)

What would you build? I was thinking of going LQ4/9 with a 4.065 bore, hypereutectic pistons, stock rods and crank for a 376.. But would it be more worth it to just have a iron 346 with forged pistons? Not looking to spray any more than 150 and that would be well down the road and only every once in a while.. Mainly an N/A daily driver street car, looking to get the most power N/A for my money. What would you build? Durability and $ is an issue, so stock crank is neccesary.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

You can get forged rods and pistons in an iron 376.

Block - $600
Forged rods - $300
Forged pistons - $700
Bearings - $200

That's about $1800 in parts alone, and you should be able to easily get the machine work and assembly done within the rest of the budget.

DREAMZ28

iTrader: (1)

Ahh OK, I never really considered going that route, I was mainly just looking at crate motors. Mostly because of warranty, and the fact that I don't really know any reputable engine builders in my area.


What kind of compression would you shoot for? I figure I could get around 11.8-12.0 or so, and run a cam that would put me at or near 8.6 dynamic. I mainly want a cam that pulls extremely hard from 3700-6700 or so, shifting around 6500-6800 depending on what's best for the stock a4 trans. Would such a cam be too big?

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Definitely go forged and do it right since you'll be spending a lot of money anyways! Got my forged 370 LQ9 from TMS for around that price, and am glad I did! I'm running 11.5:1 compression as well. I was told this would be about as high as I should go, and would still be totally safe on pump gas

DREAMZ28

iTrader: (1)

How's their customer service? No problems what so ever with the motor? Oil consumption? Any track times/dyno numbers? I really don't have a goal for power or anything, I thought the stock ls1 was stupidly fast for a production car as is, so I figure if I could get around 500 at the crank cam only I'll be happy.


I'm basically split between buying a crate short block or taking parts to a machine shop..

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Honestly I can't praise them enough! Very happy customer No problems at all, no excessive oil consumption, no track numbers yet. It dynoed 420 on a really stingy mustang dyno (tuner called it their heartbreaker dyno lol) and 500 on the nitrous. The motor was also not broken in either. Realistically it should be around 450-460 rwhp now, and on a dynojet dyno. Just give them a call, and see what you think. Certainly won't hurt

whatsa347

iTrader: (6)

I'd spend $300 more on a 408 shortblock and call it a day

Exidous

iTrader: (11)

Fully forged 347 with an aluminum block. I like keeping my weight off. :-)

http://www.thompsonmotorsports.net/p...products_id=11

I'd probably upgrade the rod bolts but I don't want/need huge CI for my car. You'd come in under budget too! I am building my forged 347 right now. I wanted reliability and to keep my MPG up since it's a daily driver. As long as I can manage to stay out of boost.......

my406cid

4.125 bore 3.62 stroke Iron block with spray

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

This is what I would do as awell. Put all the rest of my money in the best head porting you can get.

DREAMZ28

iTrader: (1)

I should probably mention that 3500 is for all expenses, gaskets, machine work, bolts, etc etc. So 408 or any other forged crank setup is out. Its most likely going to be iron, just because of cost.


I'm interested with what iron block you can get a 4.125 bore out of. What CID would that result in with a 3.62 stroke?


I've been wanting to go 4.00+ bore just because of head selection down the road, but for now the motor will probably have some stock 243s and a decent size cam

ATK Engines

iTrader: (1)

Why are you wanting to go max bore on an LQ4/9?

You can get a nicely built 370CI LQ4 within your budget with a new 3.622" crank and upgraded rings for nitrous.

my406cid

4.125 bore 3.62 stroke is a 388. I think this thing properly cammed and compression would be a very fun street motor. Everybody says it'll be lacking on torque. How? Bigger bore same stroke.

DREAMZ28

iTrader: (1)

Honestly just figured it was a cheap way to get cubes without a stroker crank so why not? But I rarely see 376 and other 4.065 bore combos, is it bad for durability? What's wrong with it? If I went that route, with my goals and cost restrictions, I could just use a LS3 bottom end and basically have an iron ls3. I haven't seen any prices for ls3 parts though so I'm not sure if the cost would be worth it to ditch forged pistons/rods.. Are they even neccesary at my power goals?


If so ill stick with a 4.03 and do a 370.

With that bore, what heads would you prefer to run? I'm familiar with small bore stuff, but with LS3 heads being used on the bigger bore motors I'm not really sure what direction to go in?

As for cost, it hasn't really been answered but is it cheaper to take parts to get them machined and assembled or just get a short block from someone like TMS? I've never had to have anything machined so I'm clueless to costs.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

How the heck you gonna get 4.125 bore out of an iron block without sleeving it (which costs thousands)?

GarrettM

iTrader: (6)

Im curious also, ive been crunching the numbers on puting one together myself and cant really see if it will save me or not.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

To rebuild my shortblock using parts I supplied I calculated the total cost to be right around 3k using quotes from a few local shops around me.

A forged 364 from TMS is like 3879 + shipping/crate. Now you can always sell your existing block and whatever innards you may have to offset some of the cost, but then you have to deal with all the work to sell and ship them.

If you have a good engine builder near you it will always be cheaper and simpler (especially for warranty purposes) to deal with them rather than some builder thousands of miles away.

DREAMZ28

iTrader: (1)

Yea, I've been looking at the prices for TMS and they seem hard to beat. I'm sure if I could assemble the short block myself I could save the money but I have no engine stand and would have yo get the tools and lubricants and everything, by then it seems like I'd be breaking even so might as well have a professional do it.


But then again I know there's alot of small steps that should be taken for everything to be spot on, and I'd like yo measure quench by the cylinder, and things like that, a lot of shops get you in and out and skip the small things.

DREAMZ28

iTrader: (1)

Well that's with a forged crank I'm sure but still probably the same principle. Also, you already have your block right? If so that's -600 that you have to spend. I'm basically buying the entire short block. I could possibly use the LS1 that's in my car now, but I'd have to take it to a shop, have them tear it down and figure out if its use able, and if its not then I'm out for labor, so might as well go ahead and start new.

I don't need a new crank, and honestly I'm not even sure if I really need forged rods/pistons. I'm just building a daily H/C car that might see the bottle years down the road, and sparingly if so. If a stock LS1 can take a 150 shot all day, then should I really need a forged bottom? I'd probably spin to 6800-7000 so I guess its good insurance to have forged rods/pistons.

my406cid

Have to have alum block. Find a worn out 5.3 all day. Resleeve and there u go.