timing set/oil pump combo w/ underdrive pulley
#1
timing set/oil pump combo w/ underdrive pulley
I am running an asp underdrive pulley,
what is a good timing set and ported oil pump combo?
does this cloyes require spacing the oil pump?
I see on speed's site that most require modidication when running an underdrive pulley??
CLOYES TIMING SET
Adjustable from 0, 2, or 4 degrees advanced or retarded. Kit comes with precision machined heat treated gears and double roller chain for high performance reliability.
Part No. Description Price Buy
CLO93153A CLOYES ADJUSTABLE TIMING SET $159.99
will this timing set require spacing the oil pump?
what is a good timing set and ported oil pump combo?
does this cloyes require spacing the oil pump?
I see on speed's site that most require modidication when running an underdrive pulley??
CLOYES TIMING SET
Adjustable from 0, 2, or 4 degrees advanced or retarded. Kit comes with precision machined heat treated gears and double roller chain for high performance reliability.
Part No. Description Price Buy
CLO93153A CLOYES ADJUSTABLE TIMING SET $159.99
will this timing set require spacing the oil pump?
#2
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I have an SLP double roller and SLP LS6 pump. The ASP pully was machined for this. I think most double rollers will reqire the pum to be spaced. The SLP pump cam with the spacers.
#3
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ALL double rollers (they are all made my Rollermaster just that SLP buys them and puts "SLP" on them) will require the oil pump to be spaced. The problem is that the old ASP pulley exstended inside the timing cover a little farther than it should have so it would just rub the cover of an oil pump that had been spaced out. I had mine hit and rub for 25K miles and the only damage was a minor nick on the cover. Because the cover is steel and the pulley is aluminum, the cover will cut into the aluminum and clearance its self. The new SFI ASP pulley is already clearanced for the spaced oil pumps.
I like (and highly suggest) the $80 rollermaster w/ the roller bearing that you can order from SDPC2000.com. Its indestructable, has +/- 8 degrees of ardvance/retard, and has NO slack when installed. After 25K miles mine was a stiff as the day I put it on (wish I could have said the same about the factory chain ). As far as an oil pump, get a "ported LS6" pump. Most places have them for ~$150 so just pick one (make sure it is NOT shimmed to increase WOT oil pressure).
I like (and highly suggest) the $80 rollermaster w/ the roller bearing that you can order from SDPC2000.com. Its indestructable, has +/- 8 degrees of ardvance/retard, and has NO slack when installed. After 25K miles mine was a stiff as the day I put it on (wish I could have said the same about the factory chain ). As far as an oil pump, get a "ported LS6" pump. Most places have them for ~$150 so just pick one (make sure it is NOT shimmed to increase WOT oil pressure).
#4
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What's wrong with a stock replacement, hardened chain like they sell on Thunder Racing? I don't want to have to shim the pump, and worry about my ASP pulley rubbing crap with a double roller.
#5
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probably nothing......for the amount of HP most people run a hardened single chain should get the job done but I personally just like having a second one their as a backup (helps me sleep at night )......safety is a good thing when it comes to this stuff
The shims come with the roller chain. All they are is two little 1/4" pieces of aluminum that fit under the "feet" of the pump. As far as the pulley goes, a local machine shop could turn it down for less than $20....hell I did mine and Jeff's on my little dinky 8" swing lathe in about 3 mins
The shims come with the roller chain. All they are is two little 1/4" pieces of aluminum that fit under the "feet" of the pump. As far as the pulley goes, a local machine shop could turn it down for less than $20....hell I did mine and Jeff's on my little dinky 8" swing lathe in about 3 mins
#7
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Nope......not at all:
a) LS1s are internally balanced which means the balancer and flywheel/flexplate are both neutral balanced (have no affect on the balance of the motor)
b) you are cutting on the center "hub" that slides over the crank snout so it’s so close to the center of rotation that it has a little to no affect on anything (were talking something like 0.000000001% here)
The balancer looks like
________
|_______|
|_______|
|_______|-----| <- cut here
|_______|-----|
|_______|-----|
|_______|
I know....the picture sucks but you get the idea.....
if anything call the removal of material "weight reduction"...and dude....I think your PFBA.org is a little out of date
a) LS1s are internally balanced which means the balancer and flywheel/flexplate are both neutral balanced (have no affect on the balance of the motor)
b) you are cutting on the center "hub" that slides over the crank snout so it’s so close to the center of rotation that it has a little to no affect on anything (were talking something like 0.000000001% here)
The balancer looks like
________
|_______|
|_______|
|_______|-----| <- cut here
|_______|-----|
|_______|-----|
|_______|
I know....the picture sucks but you get the idea.....
if anything call the removal of material "weight reduction"...and dude....I think your PFBA.org is a little out of date
Last edited by 2001CamaroGuy; 06-03-2004 at 06:00 PM.
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#8
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Thanks for the info, we'll see what I do when it comes to it
Yeah, the website died, hell, the club pretty much died, but I am still going strong with the "idea" of it I still have my original PFBA.ORG stickers on the car, it was the first newer f-body club, and it won't die damn it!
Yeah, the website died, hell, the club pretty much died, but I am still going strong with the "idea" of it I still have my original PFBA.ORG stickers on the car, it was the first newer f-body club, and it won't die damn it!
#9
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Originally Posted by Orange Peel
Yeah, the website died, hell, the club pretty much died, but I am still going strong with the "idea" of it I still have my original PFBA.ORG stickers on the car, it was the first newer f-body club, and it won't die damn it!
#13
Originally Posted by mattz06
so if the hub on the asp pulley that slides into the timing cover is tapered down you're fine?
you are not removing the length of the pulley right?
you are not removing the length of the pulley right?
#14
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Originally Posted by mattz06
so if the hub on the asp pulley that slides into the timing cover is tapered down you're fine?
you are not removing the length of the pulley right?
you are not removing the length of the pulley right?
you are not removing length, just moving that taper back some more to give a little clearance into the oil pump.