Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

cam for stock engine

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-04-2004, 09:19 PM
  #1  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
 
layz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: North richland hills texas
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default cam for stock engine

what is the most power i can get with a cam with a stock engine.
what is the cam i need to get with a stock engine.
if any one can help i greatly appreciate it.
Old 08-04-2004, 11:12 PM
  #2  
TECH Apprentice
 
WS6 RULES's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: west coast
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

You might want to move over to the Internal Engine section. Some real cam experts there. I have been looking at a cam called the OLD MAN over at Thunder Racing. No computer tuning needed. Makes more power than an LS6 cam. Stock idle and RPM range. I'm in California so I have to think of emissions test.
Old 08-05-2004, 08:02 AM
  #3  
jrp
SN95 Director
iTrader: (16)
 
jrp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Valencia, Ca
Posts: 10,755
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

sig and search
Old 08-05-2004, 10:39 AM
  #4  
Launching!
iTrader: (5)
 
Raben's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

As stated, old mans cam, LS6 cam. These specs are about as high as I would recommend on stock springs, rods, etc and no tuning:

Dur@.050 212-218 | Lift .522-.529 | LSA 114 | RPM Range 1200-6000 From Comp Cams.


And in my opinion that lift of .529 is really pushing things. You wouldn't want to rev over 6200 - 6500 rpms on stock springs, rods, etc.


But to be honest you wouldn't be happy with it. You may pick up 10 to 20hp out of it. But then again maybe not even that. Depends on your others mods too.


I would honestly save the Cam for the last thing to be done. Do all the bolt ons first. Intake, LS6 intake manifold if 98 - 00 model F-body, underdrive pulley, upgrade clutch if M6, higher stall if A4, 3.42 or better gears, cat-back exhaust, Y-pipe and Long Tube Headers (if emissions is an issue, look at midlengths or shorties) suspension mods, 85mm MAF (some would despute the MAF, all depends on where you want to take your car, if 400hp or less is the goal, the stock MAF should work just fine) Then purchase LS1 Edit and have the car dyno tuned where it stands.

With all that you should be around the 350rwhp ball park.

Then focus on the cam and go average to wild!! Like a 224/224 or stronger based cam. You will have to change the springs, rods etc at that time but it'll be worth the trouble. With a 224/224 cam and bolt ons, stock heads, you should see around 360 to 370 at the wheels from other dynos I've seen on this site. Set of heads and it should dyno alittle higher.

Stock heads, try the new Magic Stick v3 from Texas Speed. I don't recall the specs on it, however on a bolt on A4 with 4400 stall TCI converter they pulled 402rwhp!! On the M6 they pulled 419rwhp!!


Hope that helped some. And yes look at the internal section, there is alot of gurus out there with LOADS of information!!
Old 08-05-2004, 01:28 PM
  #5  
TECH Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
OWENMUSTANG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: REDFORD,MI
Posts: 438
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

any cam should atleast get springs, and well, pushrods
but you should do other things before the cam..or all together!




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:33 PM.