quickWS6

I'm starting on my cam install in the morning. I'm nervous as hell. I have everything (except tools from AutoZone). I will install the cam first, then change out the valvesprings. I have everything I need for the cam, but my valvesprings aren't in yet.

Anyone have any suggestions or tips?

I have Thunder install kit, cam, timing chain, pushrods so far. I'll install those tomorrow. The springs and retainers will go on Thursday hopefully. Give me some encouraging words! Wish me luck.

BTW, 227/227 .599/.599 on a 111. With stock A4 idle for now. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> I'll drill the TB out a little though.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Do you have the pen magnets are or you gona rely on the engine to hold up the lifters

I8COBRA

iTrader: (56)

Thats alotta lift, what springs you going with?

Good Luck <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

quickWS6

I'm going to pick up some pen magnets after class tomorrow, along with a pulley puller from Autozone.

I'm going to run 918s. I thought about 978s, but I feel like the 918s will be up to the task. The lobes aren't quite as aggressive as some are. I think they'll be fine for now. I will change to doubles sometime.

jmX

Make sure you get the pen magnets. Some cars are perfectly fine without them, but after seeing how other cars are sometimes, I'd never do a swap without them again.

Other than that, as long as you follow the instructions that are out on the net, the cam install portion of the job is pretty easy and painless. The springs are kinda a pain, more so than the cam IMO.

Classic

iTrader: (3)

Make sure you get the pen magnets - and get extras in case they break/bend/whatever. My car was a PITA type car. My lifters wouldn't even stay up for 5 seconds by themselves, and my car only has 20K miles on it. The whole install isn't really that bad. If you are changing out the timing set, you might want to go to the dealer and get an extra 0-ring or two for the oil pickup tube. Just make sure that doesn't get cut or anything in the install process and you will be fine - otherwise kiss your oil pressure goodbye.

quickWS6

Update: Everything is off now except the crank pulley and everything after that. So far, so good.

Thanks a LOT for the tips. I'll be sure to make sure none of the bolts fall into the oil pan and no to overtorque anything. Thanks guys! Hopefully I can update tonight that the cam went in smoothly. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

u8dusst

Good luck bro! Lets us know if it goes smoothly! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

TreeGreenZ

Shoot another tip I forgot to mention, take the original crank bolt and drill about a 1/4 inch hole, about an 1/8th deep or so, to act as a pilot hole for your puller. If yours was as tight as mine was, you will probably break the puller. Cause teh bolt will move a bit, and you need a solid spot to hook onto....I bent 2 pullers, and broke my stock pulley trying to get it off. But it finally came after I drilled a tap spot in the stock bolt...

quickWS6

CAM IS IN!

I still have to replace the timing chain and the springs, but damn this has been fun so far. Everything has gone smoothly. How will I know if I dropped a lifter? I don't think I did, but I want to make sure. I plan to crank the car and let it idle with the stock valvesprings, then change to the 918s tomorrow. I won't drive the car any with the stock springs. It should be alright, won't it?

This is as easy as any other mods, just time consuming. I'm sure the springs and timing chain are a PITA though.

Classic

iTrader: (3)

Well one way you can tell if you dropped a lifter is when you hear a clank in the oil pan and you instantly say F*$#. The other way is to put your pushrods in - you'll be able to tell if the lifter isn't there at that point. But if you didn't here a sound while the cam was out - you should be good to go. Now get those springs on and get it buttoned up and enjoy.

quickWS6

Well, I called it a night. I didn't drop any lifters, I have everything off, and I got stuck trying to change the timing chain. I can not get the crank gear off to change for the double one. I guess I need a puller for it. Oh well, after that everything should be good to go. I'll update again in the morning.

xssive

iTrader: (123)

Umm, how about not trying to get that cam idling with stock springs....


You could easily break a stock, drop or bend a valve, or any other number of bad things.

Dont do it!

quickWS6

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by xssive:
<strong> Umm, how about not trying to get that cam idling with stock springs....


You could easily break a stock, drop or bend a valve, or any other number of bad things.

Dont do it! </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I would think the springs could handle it at idle. Maybe not though. Doesn't matter anyway, the UPS man brought me my 918s while I was working on removing the oil pump anyway. I'll install them before I crank the car.

DERTY

Goto AutoZone and get the small three jaw puller that can be converted to a two jaw. Put a piece of metal over the crank snout and the lower gear will pop right off. Sounds like your making good progress.

quickWS6

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by derty:
<strong> Goto AutoZone and get the small three jaw puller that can be converted to a two jaw. Put a piece of metal over the crank snout and the lower gear will pop right off. Sounds like your making good progress. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I tried to use the regular three jaw and just removed one arm, but it didn't hold well. I'll go and get a bigger one in the morning.

TaTommyWS6

Some things to look out for as far as removing the oil pump to put on new timing chain:

When removing and installing the oil pickup tube bolt, wrap a piece of wire tight around the bolt. It will make getting that bolt in and out much easier. If you drop it into the oil pan, it's bad...

When torquing in the oil pan bolts (and make sure you torque everything it correctly), do not tighten the rear two (long) oil pan bolts more than 6-8 ftlbs. I made the mistake of torquing them to the same as the other oil pan bolts, and snapped one off....

Triple check that the dots line up on the cam gear....

Anyway, be patient and you will be fine.

Good luck!

Tommy <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

TreeGreenZ

*raises hand* As someone who dropped the damn oil tube pickup bolt into the oil pan <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />

Only took a couple minutes to fish out though so no big deal....Hmm wrapping a piece of wire around it is a great idea for the install <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> I haven't got mine back in yet, but that should be one of the things that will cause me troubles.

<small>[ April 02, 2003, 12:53 PM: Message edited by: TreeGreenZ ]</small>

TreeGreenZ

Yup get the big one from autosone, but I think it has 2 ends on it, use the one with the wider teeth. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

quickWS6

Well, this hasn't been bad at all. All that is left now is the water pump, radiator, intake, and changing the valvesprings. I'm gonna hold off on the valvesprings until tomorrow because I have to work tonight, but the rest should be good to go tonight.

I'm also in the middle of hiding my wire harness and installing the Jay Fisher coil relocation kit. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> The car is pretty tore apart right now, but will be ready to go racing by this weekend one way or the other.