calongo_SS

iTrader: (7)

OK, I'm gonna take the next step and do some serious mods soon, just not sure which way to go. Tell me what you think.
Current setup:
Full bolt ons minus EWP
3500 TCI SSF
Lots o' BMR stuff out back
This is mostly a street car, sees the track only a few times a year.
I have a couple of things that I don't want to do. I don't want a cam that I have to rev to the moon (like shift points to be at 6500 or less). And I don't want to flycut the pistons either.
I want the car to still be reasonably streetable, as I still drive the car a couple of times a week to work, but it's definatley not a daily driver either.

Option 1:

FFHP Stage 2 5.3L Heads
Fully CNC'd
Hand Finished
Bronze Guides
REV 2.02 Intake Valves
REV 1.57 Exhaust Valves
Patriot Dual Gold Springs
Viton Valve Seals
Custom 3 Angle Valve Job
Flowed with sheet

Package also includes
Custom Cam from Comp Cams
*Brad w/ FFHP recomended a 232/238 .595.595 XER or something along those lines.
Comp Cams .080 wall chromoly Hi-Tech pushrods(7.40 or 7.35 length)

Also includes
GM head bolts and gaskets
GM water pump gaskets
GM crank pulley bolt
GM front cover gasket

This is 1850 shipped, but I would upgrade to cometic gaskets & arp head bolts & crank bolt so add another 250 - 300. plus 400-500 for a tune.

~2800

Option 2:
Cam package from TSP or FMS Torquer or FM11 or something about that size.(700-800)
3.73 gears and TA girdle (400 + gear install)
Drag radials (~350)
Dyno Tune (400-500)

~2200

Option 3:
Cam package from TSP of FMS (700-800)
Small n20 shot (new dry kit or used wet kit probably) (~500)
Drag radials (~350)
Dyno Tune (400-500)
stock injectors & pump ok w/ 100 dry shot?
stock pump ok w/ 100 wet shot?

~2000 depending on fueling issues I'm not sure about

Option 1 is probably going to be the most expensive, so I would have to wait for DR's, which I desperatley need already. I also don't think I have seen any results from these heads. They are Patriot cores assembled and hand finished by FFHP.

Option 2 is kind of where I'm leaning now but I'm not sure if it will give me the performance I want.

Option 3 seems like it would be the cheapest, and possibly the most performace but I am hesitant to go the n2o route since I still have about 1.5 yrs until the car is paid off. I don't know if the increased risk of n20 is worth it.

I also am concerned that I will have a better chance of drive train issues with options 1 & 3, although I realize I'm probably gonna have them any route I go.


Any other options you can think of, I'm all ears. I'd like to stay at 2500 or less, but if ya'll think the h/c is a great deal that shouldn't be passed up I just won't tell the wife how much I spent

Thanks,
Craig

calongo_SS

iTrader: (7)

No one has an opinion??

jermzz

iTrader: (18)

Option 1 is really close to what I have (or WILL have once I install the cam if it ever gets here) expecting close to 450 to the wheels.

If you want to stay NA i'd say its the best choice if you want a lot of power. I don't like n20 because you only have the power when you press the button. H/C is all around, I like that. hehe. You're also probably gonna want to get a timing chain and possibly a ported oil pump, so that might add another 200 or so... Also, I had to get bigger injectors, with a H/C package like that you're probably going to need them. Not positive though

There's also other variables to consider... if you daily drive the car, if you take it to the track, if you like to showboat around a lot on weekends, how streetable you want the car...Those might influence your choice aswell. You also may want to consider plans for the car down the road... IE: if you plan or racing at the track you're gonna eventually need a rear end with that H/C package.

Good luck!

calongo_SS

iTrader: (7)

I'm gonna get a LS2 timing chain ($30 ) and stick with the stock oil pump since it's an 01. I think I should be ok with stock injectors if I stay N/A. 01's have 28.8 lb/hr right?