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Generation III Internal Engine
1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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Old 02-17-2005, 05:32 PM   #41
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Like glenster and amit posted, 221/221, 114 lsa. and under is a verygood choice. My 224/228, 112 lsa cam pulls hard but is trickier to tune and drive.

I think the COMP CAMS LS6 replacement cam 212/218 or the TR OLD MAN cam matched with AFR 205 heads would be a verygood daily driver combo that would be easy to tune and fun to drive for the 347 cubic inch motor.
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Old 02-17-2005, 05:59 PM   #42
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I have a Comp Cam 224-581-112 on an M6.

VERY good street cam, it behaves but pulls too! Problem is I am now turning into a track junkie and wish I went 230 ish.

I don't **** around the street anymore, the laws here are way too harsh. BTW, 413/383 SAE with stage 2 no name heads, not all bolt ons and 4.10s.
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Old 02-17-2005, 06:15 PM   #43
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http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14554

So streetable it's scary...

Just drop the guy an Email and ask him about it!

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Old 02-17-2005, 08:10 PM   #44
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don't strain yourself too much there EDC. wouldn't want you hurting yourself by reaching to far back and patting yourself. but hey, either way he put up some pretty 'interesting' numbers there.
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Old 02-17-2005, 11:13 PM   #45
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this coming from the guy recommending 11.7 heads/cam car setups. wheres the roll eyes icon? if you have a decent person tuning the car, any cam up to roughly 230 duration and average LSA most for the sissy guys run (112 etc) should be VERY VERY stock like when done.
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Old 02-17-2005, 11:36 PM   #46
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I never would have suggested it before but my Ron Jeremy cam drives exactly like stock with 4.10 gears. It's a monster cam though and there's no way in heck you'll ever pass emissions with it but I'm absolutely loving it. It maintains enough downlow power to pass people in 6th gear, I think that really says something about the drivability.

Specs are: 236"/239" .600"/.611" 111LSA

You'll have to spin it up to the 6800 rpm range to see the maximum benifits but it's an awesome cam.
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Old 02-18-2005, 09:02 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrannySShifting
this coming from the guy recommending 11.7 heads/cam car setups. wheres the roll eyes icon?
you refering to me? me with my stock cam car? with stock converter? stock ls1 intake? boy, imagine if the 11.7 car had a converter in it? oh, and here's your rollseyes
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Last edited by mrr23; 02-19-2005 at 08:13 AM..
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Old 02-18-2005, 11:55 PM   #48
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I have a TR224 114 in my car. I deliver pizza's in it. no probs. Definition of streetable to me.
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Old 02-19-2005, 09:11 AM   #49
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With my 224/581/112 cam (with heads) I did a personal best of 11.9 at 119 with a so-so 1.88 60'.

It was in a 5-7 mph headwind too.
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Old 02-19-2005, 11:43 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spenser309
I have a TR224 114 in my car. I deliver pizza's in it. no probs. Definition of streetable to me.


NICE!!!

Nice loooking ride, too!
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Old 02-19-2005, 01:39 PM   #51
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MTI B1 is a great street cam.
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Old 02-19-2005, 02:09 PM   #52
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I was looking for a cam for my 2002, and just settled on a very streetable grind.

I rejected the Thunder Racing/futralmotorsports cams and their type with the fast/aggressive ramp rates due to unnecessary valve train noise and early fatigue on the valve springs. The TR lobes and the Comp XE-R lobes are extremely close in terms of ramp rate, etc. The XE-R lobe does have slightly more peak lobe lift. If anything, the XE-R will be slightly harder on valvesprings because of this.

Well, I spent hours pouring over specs till my eyes crossed. I called several cam tech lines and talked to their people. The nicest and most helpful guys were the techs from Lunati and Comp Cams.

Lunati has several good grinds that are good cams. You might want to check out their pn# 55004. This cam is supposed to make good power, plus it is said to be valvespring friendly. It is a 558/558 221/221 at .050 with a 114 LSA. See it here:
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLi...ECC/Chevy6.html

I had a long conversation with a Comp Cams tech. With his help, I finally choose a custom grind cam that closely mirrored the GM Hot Cam with a more idle friendly 114 LSA. I may leave some horsepower on the table, but with the this lobe, the valvetrain will last for years of reliable driving. The specs are below.


SPEC CARD
PART #: 54-000-11 ENGINE: LS1 CHEVY LS1/GEN III '97-UP ROLLER

GRIND #: LS1 3767R /3753R HR114.0

GROSS VALVE LIFT .532 .535
DURATION @ .006
TAPPET LIFT 273 277
DURATION @ .050 220.00 224.00
LOBE LIFT .313 .315
LOBE SEPARATION 114.0
ROCKER ARM RATIO 1.70

Other street cams:
LS6 (mildest with most low end torque -smooth idle)

Comp Cams 54-412-11 (not much different than LS6 cam)

Comp Cams 54-424-11 (little low end loss - good mid and upper improvement - good idle)

Crane 1449561 (slightly more low end loss - best mid and upper end power - slight choppy idle.
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Old 02-19-2005, 03:49 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrp
seeing as how these 230+ cams dont offer anything and often have less power up until 5500 rpm i see no reason to put a 230+ in a daily driver. who wants to have to stall and gear the **** out of there daily driver just to make it "liveable". sure there killer down the track, but in the 2000 - 5000 rpm, which to me is where a daily driver spends most of there time, they offer nothing.
I agree.

You can simply buy good heads and make such large cams even more irrelevant (2000-5xxxx) for 95% of peoples needs.
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Old 02-19-2005, 07:50 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mirek
I agree.

You can simply buy good heads and make such large cams even more irrelevant (2000-5xxxx) for 95% of peoples needs.
That's true, but heads are $$$. Especially if you're looking for a good set. I don't think anyone would argue with heads/cam being better than cam only. The same size cam with heads will make ~40 more HP and have the same drivability. Again, you're looking at $1200-3k more though.
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Old 02-19-2005, 08:54 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrp
seeing as how these 230+ cams dont offer anything and often have less power up until 5500 rpm i see no reason to put a 230+ in a daily driver. who wants to have to stall and gear the **** out of there daily driver just to make it "liveable". sure there killer down the track, but in the 2000 - 5000 rpm, which to me is where a daily driver spends most of there time, they offer nothing.
I gained 18RWHP swapping my B1 (221/221 114LSA cam) to a 230/230 112LSA cam in my 360. Pull went to 6500rpm and I gained from 3000rpm and up.

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Old 02-20-2005, 12:42 AM   #56
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Im sorry bud but your not going to get much more the ls6 cam power with that cam. There is nothing wrong with the Futral or Thunder or many Comp lobes used, sprung correctly will last for many thousands of miles. Your just trading power AND driveabilty, for the ability to use LS6 springs maybe? doesnt seem like agood tradeoff
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Old 02-28-2005, 02:12 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDC
I know how general specs are, but that was a 220/224 at .050 stick, right?

I'm not trying to "" here, but Jz06man (2nd page in this thread), put down a similar numbers, with similar mods, but with a smaller (at least at .050) cam.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/attach...chmentid=24008
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Old 02-28-2005, 02:49 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marc_w
I know how general specs are, but that was a 220/224 at .050 stick, right?

I'm not trying to "" here, but Jz06man (2nd page in this thread), put down a similar numbers, with similar mods, but with a smaller (at least at .050) cam.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/attach...chmentid=24008
In an '04 GTO?

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Old 02-28-2005, 03:58 PM   #59
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Z06.

...But another 5.7 w/M6.
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Old 02-28-2005, 04:49 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marc_w
Z06.

...But another 5.7 w/M6.
OK... now that's a fair comparison... Dyno a 'vette vs GTO...

Let's see a GTO with that set up...

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Old 02-28-2005, 04:49 PM
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