beastmode

iTrader: (52)

So say like a set of Patriot Performance Stage II 243s, that would work good with those? Those are what I have for when I put the motor back together. Hmmm

Thanks Daz

BlackBirdSS

Ok so is everyone in agreement that 97-2000 LS-1's can not be bored and in fact can only be honed .0040?

I have a 98 and I am curious...

Daz

iTrader: (18)

FO-Shizzle ! Those heads will be great ! Make sure you check your Compression Ratio.

I'm dropping mine(383-LS1) in my 67' RS/SS with a M6 tranny. The tricky part is mounting the C4 IRS and rounting the exhaust.

Spade

iTrader: (26)

Lets see some pics of the project? That sounds like an awsome ride in the making. I am on the fence about doing something like that.

Daz

iTrader: (18)

Its just a shell right now, I took the front end off. I have some rust issues to contend with, so I need a full left rear quarter, trunk floor, and rear floor panels(the typical stuff for a car this old). I do have a LS1 shortblock already that I need to take apart. I'll get pics to you later.

beastmode

iTrader: (52)

The safest bore size I have been told on an LS1 is a .010 (3.908), though most go with a .007 (3.905)... the only problem I have found with those is it seems that all the pistons work with 6.125" rods, so you have to do rods as well. This is all from my understanding of the research I have done over the passed couple days, you may want to look into it a little more just to be on the safe side.

As far as when I get my motor bored, are you guys having yours honed/bored with a deck plate?

david vericker

iTrader: (1)

Your post is correct.A deck plate should be used when machining the cylinders.

BlackBirdSS

Thanks!

killaxtranz

iTrader: (3)

has anyone ever had a problem running a dd 3.908 head cam car?

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Did google help you find this thread? 5 years old. lol.

There shouldn't be a problem with it. There are several people that have run these bores. What kind of problems are you referencing?

Chris10an

iTrader: (1)

I have over bored ls1 blocks two times. They both run as we speak. Used Ls2 pistons with Ls2 rods on them. Next time is new cylinder sleeves
It started just for fun, we had a broken Ls1 block from EBay with some broken tranny ears. welded them back and bored it up to 4.00"
I would not suggest to run blower on it, but they run good.
One of them runs a medium cam and 243 heads with full roller setup.
Works as a Ls2. But hell no, no guarantee

Fobra

How much power could a re-sleeved ls1 block handle?

and how much does that usually cost to do? - just the sleeving

ERL Performance

It will depend on which LS1 you have. The 1st Gen LS1 is not a block you want to mess with because of the bad oil passages it has but the 2nd Gen LS1 is a good one and is the same as the LS6 block. The way to tell the difference is that the 2nd Gen block head studs are all the same length and the 1st Gen head studs are different lengths.
We can sleeve the LS1 (2nd Gen) blocks using our ERL Superdeck 1 sleeving and we can do a standard 4 bolt configuration or a 6 bolt configuration to it. Our Superdeck 1 sleeving is currently holding at 2200 hp but that's our 6 bolt "race" application. It all really depends on what your application is as to what needs to be done and that will obviously determine the cost as well. What are you looking to do with this setup?

jimbobmckey

iTrader: (3)

Does anyone know how much Darton would charge to changes the sleeves and all that to an ls1 I wanted to go 4.000?? OR has anyone done it that knows how it works? Thanks

Steve - Race Eng

iTrader: (1)

There is no sense in sleeving the LS1 to 4" since one can purchase an LS2 block a lot cheaper than sleeving the LS1. The LS1 and LS6 blocks can not be reliably dry sleeved like I do with the LS2, LS3 and LS7 blocks.

Darton makes MID wet sleeves for the LS1 in two size ranges, 4.125" to 4.160" and 4.170" to 4.200". If you are interested in prices, send me a PM and I'll get back to you.

As ERL mentioned, the early LS1 block is slightly deficient in oiling because it lacks a rear oil galley cross over, save for the small cut out in the rear cover. The iron LQ4 and LQ9 blocks are identical to the early LS1 in this regard. I wrote a CNC program several years ago to machine the back of these blocks for the cross over passage increasing the oil flow. I charge $75 for this modification.

Steve

ERL Performance

All of our pricing is posted on our website at http://www.erlperformance.com under products. You can click on sleeved blocks and you can see under ERL Superdeck 1 our pricing for our 4 bolts system is quit reasonable and it includes a set of billet main caps as well.

tykby2

I know this thread is pretty old by now but I was wondering what LS block I should use to do a SBC 454 build for a project I have going on

Steve - Race Eng

iTrader: (1)

LS2 LS3 or LS7 as a starting base for Darton Seal Tight dry liners. I have done quite a few of these blocks for 454" builds.

A good used LS2 block is the least expensive of the above blocks and the best of the three above for sleeving.

Steve

NemeSS

iTrader: (127)

LSX block also can b used if don't mind a heavier block

tykby2

thx guys, and how would one go about getting a block sleeved, take it to a machine shop and let them do it or send it out to somewhere that does it