Bull_in_a_china_shop

iTrader: (1)

shims? i removed-231/237 now it lopes surges, dies etc
OK I have a 231/237 and i am running 7.35 pushrods and I milled 040 off of stock afr's.

I ran 120 shims to get the wipe patterns centered on the valves. and it idles super smooth etc, good manners. I pulled out 060 and am left w 060 shims and it chops and surges and wont idle. I havent really tuned it yet.

I dig the mean *** idle but I need it to not constantly die, even w a relearn.

What are the shims really doing for my geometery, shoud I stay w just 060 or replace back to 120??

Thanks

Z06 Steve

iTrader: (8)

I would get a tune and forget the shims.you should be fine with just the 7.35's

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

The shims will afect lift and duration on the cam. What you did when you pulled the shims was add back in .060 lift and the corresponding duration. Is the car tuned?

Bull_in_a_china_shop

iTrader: (1)

not yet, its gonna get done though

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

The car isn't going to idle good at all and prolly die alot without a tune. Secondly, shims are the wrong way to go about setting the valvetrain up. I tried .120 shims and it rolled the rocker off the tip of the valve. I finally found that you need to get your pre-load straight with shorter pushrods instead of shims. It sounds like you are using to long a pushrod and you need alot of shim to center the wipe back up. This is why the pushrod checkers are a good investment. With the smaller base circle of the cam and the .040" milled heads, I bet a 7.300 or 7.325 pushrod might be in order.