What would you do? Blower cam and H/C questions
#1
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What would you do? Blower cam and H/C questions
This is for an 02 Vette (for labor questions):
Is there a blower cam made with a nasty lope to it? I want to do heads/cam now and I'm 98% sure that I will go with a blower later but I really want a nasty sounding cam.
What is the power difference between, let's say, a G5-X3 or the MTI R1 or Y1 cams and a regular blower cam? Are we talking 10 hp or much more?
If we are talking a big difference I will probably just install a blower cam when the blower comes and the R1 or Y1 now with the heads.
How many hours extra work would I be looking at if I do end up swapping cams with the blower install? Should I get the QTP two-piece cover now if I go the swap route? How much time will that cover actually save to justify the cost?
Can you run a blower cam for a while without a blower?
Thanks!
Is there a blower cam made with a nasty lope to it? I want to do heads/cam now and I'm 98% sure that I will go with a blower later but I really want a nasty sounding cam.
What is the power difference between, let's say, a G5-X3 or the MTI R1 or Y1 cams and a regular blower cam? Are we talking 10 hp or much more?
If we are talking a big difference I will probably just install a blower cam when the blower comes and the R1 or Y1 now with the heads.
How many hours extra work would I be looking at if I do end up swapping cams with the blower install? Should I get the QTP two-piece cover now if I go the swap route? How much time will that cover actually save to justify the cost?
Can you run a blower cam for a while without a blower?
Thanks!
#2
The whole point of a blower cam is to not leak air out. You don't want any overlap (lope). Bigger cams on 114/115 LSA's will still lope, but nothing like something ground on a 112.
It's not hard to change cams. I wouldn't waste the money on a QTP cover unless you do a cam swap everyday.
You can drive a blower cam with no blower..
It's not hard to change cams. I wouldn't waste the money on a QTP cover unless you do a cam swap everyday.
You can drive a blower cam with no blower..
#3
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See sig. My cam sound's realy good right now. I dont have the blower on yet so I'm sure the sound is going to change with that addition. Sil3ntxws6 said it , min 114lsa and you want more exhaust lift and durration than intake. Heads look into a bigger combustion chamber to loose compression. You can check MTI's 6.0L, AFR's 225, Or TEA makes great heads too.
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Thanks for the info! Not sure about the F-body but you have to drop the whole rack to get the pulley off on a C5 to change the cam. That is the thought about the QTP cover. You don't have to pull the pulley to change out later.
$550.00 is an awful lot to save a few hours labor, plus you can't use a double roller with the cover either. Maybe I'll just pull the rack twice.
$550.00 is an awful lot to save a few hours labor, plus you can't use a double roller with the cover either. Maybe I'll just pull the rack twice.
#5
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pulling the rack is a LOT easier the second time. Hint: unbolt the ABS unit and it's 100% easier to do. disconnecting the pump is still a time sink, though, what with the fluid oozing everywhere and waiting 30% of it to go into your catch container.
It's the lobe separation angle that makes a car lope. So, if you want a blower cam to lope, bring in the intake and exhaust duration and get a more aggressive lobe ground into the cam. (like an XE-R) An XE-R lobe at 220 will get about as much air into the cylinder as a 226 XE lobe. So, buy the shortest-duration XE-R cam you can find, and go for the narrowest lobe separation angle that still has zero (or 1-2°) of overlap.
That'll give you the power out of the blower and give you the tell-all idle you are looking for.
It's the lobe separation angle that makes a car lope. So, if you want a blower cam to lope, bring in the intake and exhaust duration and get a more aggressive lobe ground into the cam. (like an XE-R) An XE-R lobe at 220 will get about as much air into the cylinder as a 226 XE lobe. So, buy the shortest-duration XE-R cam you can find, and go for the narrowest lobe separation angle that still has zero (or 1-2°) of overlap.
That'll give you the power out of the blower and give you the tell-all idle you are looking for.