Running without tune questions...
#1
Launching!
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Running without tune questions...
I have a 99 camaro M6 with .580ish lift cam, upgraded valvetrain, full intake, full exhuast...
I am wondering how unsafe it is to drive this car without a tune for a week or two? what might go wrong? what makes it ok to drive? How should I break the car/cam in after install?
Any and all advice is welcomed and Thanks in advance!
I am wondering how unsafe it is to drive this car without a tune for a week or two? what might go wrong? what makes it ok to drive? How should I break the car/cam in after install?
Any and all advice is welcomed and Thanks in advance!
#2
TECH Senior Member
No beak in period needed, just a couple of heat cycles on the springs.
I would just drive it normal without any attempt to go ***** out, that is when things go bad.
I know it is tough, but you have to resist.
Take it to a tuner as soon as you can.
I would just drive it normal without any attempt to go ***** out, that is when things go bad.
I know it is tough, but you have to resist.
Take it to a tuner as soon as you can.
#5
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Well the cash is available, but the tuners (speed inc) are SWAMPED with appointments to have cars tuned! The soonest they could get me in is July 11th !!!
My car should be done by the 2nd or 3rd, is it ok to drive it til the 11th or what should I do? When driving it... besides NOT going ***** out, how can i safely prevent my motor from blowing up or screwing something up?
When u talk about heat cycles... Care to run that by me in a more descriptive way. Maybe advice on it as well?
Thanks and help the help/advice coming!
Thanks once again in advance!
My car should be done by the 2nd or 3rd, is it ok to drive it til the 11th or what should I do? When driving it... besides NOT going ***** out, how can i safely prevent my motor from blowing up or screwing something up?
When u talk about heat cycles... Care to run that by me in a more descriptive way. Maybe advice on it as well?
Thanks and help the help/advice coming!
Thanks once again in advance!
#6
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Heat the car up some before driving.
I usually let the dummy needle get to about 160 and then drive (low rpm).
Heat cycling new springs could be thought of as a break in procedure for cold, new springs. Cold springs are not as resilient to pressure as hot ones.
Yeah I've been driving around for about 3 weeks on stock tuning, but hey its not too bad, even with the Fm14.
Just be easy on the motor and you should be fine.
Detonation is not your friend.
I usually let the dummy needle get to about 160 and then drive (low rpm).
Heat cycling new springs could be thought of as a break in procedure for cold, new springs. Cold springs are not as resilient to pressure as hot ones.
Yeah I've been driving around for about 3 weeks on stock tuning, but hey its not too bad, even with the Fm14.
Just be easy on the motor and you should be fine.
Detonation is not your friend.
#7
TECH Senior Member
Spring heat cycle upon cam swap:
1- fully warm car after startup, can be taken for a drive but nothing over 2000>3000 rpms
2- Let the springs cool overnight or at least till motor is back to cold.
3- repeat 1 & 2 for another day
4- motor is ready to run, but always let car warm up before drving hard as the aftermarket springs are more brittle and need to reach operating temps to avoid unnecessary spring damage.
1- fully warm car after startup, can be taken for a drive but nothing over 2000>3000 rpms
2- Let the springs cool overnight or at least till motor is back to cold.
3- repeat 1 & 2 for another day
4- motor is ready to run, but always let car warm up before drving hard as the aftermarket springs are more brittle and need to reach operating temps to avoid unnecessary spring damage.