Started my cam install today...
12-01-2006, 02:49 PM
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Started my cam install today... Its been pretty easy so far(knock on wood). Ive got the the coil packs off, valve covers off, rockers and pushrods out, radiator and fans out, and the waterpump off. Looks like its about to rain so ill call it a day for now. by the way, i decided to go with the TR230/224 with a 111 lsa, comp 918's, titanium retainers, chromoly pushrods, TR ported ls6 oil pump, and ls2 timing chain. i also bought the JPR cam install tool to hold up the lifters. parts will be here tuesday so hopefully i can get it running be the end of the week. any tips for the upcoming steps would be greatly appreciated!!
-Derek
-Derek
12-01-2006, 02:53 PM
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Sounds like you have it well under way. I'm sure you'll enjoy the cam. I really like the 230/224 cam. It's not the newest grind out anymore, but a very proven camshaft nonetheless. One of my favorites.
Any tips? Just make sure you have your motor sealed well from dirt trying to get in. Sounds like you have it under control.
Anything in particular?
Ben T.
Any tips? Just make sure you have your motor sealed well from dirt trying to get in. Sounds like you have it under control.
Anything in particular?
Ben T.
12-01-2006, 02:57 PM
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Hmmmm... be careful tightening up the pan. I wanted to go "by the book" before on a pan install and used the torque specs. It resulted in cracking the corner on the cast aluminum pan. I'll never use a torque wrench on an oil pan again, but rather just good judgement. When torqued to spec you put an enormous amount of stress on those little bolts... way more than I'm confortable with.
Ben T.
Ben T.
12-01-2006, 03:03 PM
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dropping the pan, WOW what a BITCH...i had to take all the bolts out...and two bolts holding the pan in the tranny...but once I did that I could fit my HAND around the bolt you have to take out....niceeee...when I put the pan back I am going to not only torque, but run some high temp copper gasket maker all around to give ithat extra seal!
erik
erik
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12-01-2006, 03:19 PM
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clearance your oil pump housing to the crank when you put it on and just take your time. One thing i do to make sure the front main seal is lined up perfectly to the crank is put the front cover on, put all the bolts in and run them down, dont tightten (leave about 1/2 a turn loose, then install the crank pully all the way, then tighten the front cover bolts. This makes sure the front main seal is center perfectly around the pully. Also put some sealant in the corners of where the front cover and oil pan meet to make sure you dont get a leak there.
12-01-2006, 03:55 PM
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yea i wasnt planning on dropping the oil pan all the way. just enough to get to the pick up tube. and i was also planning on putting some gasket maker rtv on pretty much everything (oil pan, timing cover, and waterpump. and using threadlock as well)
Exactly what i was planning on doing!
thanks for the replies everyone
-Derek
Originally Posted by speedyss
clearance your oil pump housing to the crank when you put it on and just take your time. One thing i do to make sure the front main seal is lined up perfectly to the crank is put the front cover on, put all the bolts in and run them down, dont tightten (leave about 1/2 a turn loose, then install the crank pully all the way, then tighten the front cover bolts. This makes sure the front main seal is center perfectly around the pully. Also put some sealant in the corners of where the front cover and oil pan meet to make sure you dont get a leak there.
thanks for the replies everyone
-Derek
12-01-2006, 04:52 PM
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^^^really the only thing im worried about haha.
what do you guys recommend for keeping the valves from falling when doing the springs. i was going to use the top dead center method, since i dont have an air compressor. for those who dont know what im talking about, the top dead center method is when you rotate the crank so that the piston is at the top, preventing the valve from falling. does that work well?? thanks
-Derek
what do you guys recommend for keeping the valves from falling when doing the springs. i was going to use the top dead center method, since i dont have an air compressor. for those who dont know what im talking about, the top dead center method is when you rotate the crank so that the piston is at the top, preventing the valve from falling. does that work well?? thanks
-Derek
12-01-2006, 05:38 PM
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Man if you had an air compresor it would make life so much easyer for you, the top dead cener methed works but its hard b/c the valve does move down some and its hard to get the springs to go down far enough to get the locks in, or you could use a big magnet to help hold it up to. Filling the cylinder up with air to hold the valves up is the best way tho, it works realy good.
12-01-2006, 05:44 PM
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The top dead center method works just fine. Did my first cam that way with out problem. Just take your time.
Another thing I would recommend is getting a magnet to catch the retainers when you compress the springs. I used a magnetic pick up tool. This way you don't have to worry about dropping them.
Another thing I would recommend is getting a magnet to catch the retainers when you compress the springs. I used a magnetic pick up tool. This way you don't have to worry about dropping them.
Last edited by 2002blackZ; 12-01-2006 at 05:48 PM. Reason: thinking....
12-01-2006, 06:03 PM
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^^sounds good. ill pick one up.
P.S. i think my buddy may have a compressor he can let me use. if i can get my hands on one, how much psi do i need to hold the valve up? i remember hearing somewhere that it needs about 80psi. is that correct?
P.S. i think my buddy may have a compressor he can let me use. if i can get my hands on one, how much psi do i need to hold the valve up? i remember hearing somewhere that it needs about 80psi. is that correct?
12-01-2006, 06:11 PM
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80 - 100 psi should be fine.
If you can't get a compressor, stick some rope in through the spark plug hole then bring the piston to TDC. The rope will keep the valves from moving at all.
When playing around w/ the pick up tube bolt, loop some fishing line around it so you can drag it out should you drop it in the oil pan. Believe me, you don't want that feeling of panic if you drop that SOB in the pan.
I would just use your best judgement on the oil pan bolts, I've never used a tq. wrench on mine and never leaked a drop.
If you can't get a compressor, stick some rope in through the spark plug hole then bring the piston to TDC. The rope will keep the valves from moving at all.
When playing around w/ the pick up tube bolt, loop some fishing line around it so you can drag it out should you drop it in the oil pan. Believe me, you don't want that feeling of panic if you drop that SOB in the pan.
I would just use your best judgement on the oil pan bolts, I've never used a tq. wrench on mine and never leaked a drop.
12-01-2006, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by calongo_SS
When playing around w/ the pick up tube bolt, loop some fishing line around it so you can drag it out should you drop it in the oil pan. Believe me, you don't want that feeling of panic if you drop that SOB in the pan.
Great idea! i will definetly do that. thanks
-Derek
12-01-2006, 06:30 PM
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how many miles are on this engine? If a lot i would try to make every effert to not pull the pan, I got when i still had my ls1 i used a magnet and a finger to work it out with out pulling the pan.
12-01-2006, 06:39 PM
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there are about 77,000 miles on the car. but im not going to pull the pan. im just going to drop it enought to get to the pick up tube to replace the oil pump.