Oil burning 408 help....
02-22-2007, 09:50 AM
#21
Originally Posted by Irocss85
cobrakiller, dont forget about the possiblity of that thing dripping oil more heavily while driving down the road. if you have a crank case pressure problem, that will push oil out all the time will off idle under load, and maybe all your seeing is whats dripping off the oil pan afterwards. if you were burning oil that bad, you would def. smell it AND see the smoke behind you. my iroc did this and its very annoying. the smell is very strong. plus you'd see oil coming out your tailpipes and getting all over your rear bumper at the rate your describing. mine burned oil very bad at idle and it didnt go through oil like that. also pulling the plugs would be a good indication if your really burning it or not.
I don't really smell it in the car. When I pull the plugs, the threads are always wet. I have dumps before the axles on my true duals and they have a turn down. If I let it idle for a couple of minutes, you can see a large black soot patch on the ground.
02-22-2007, 09:53 AM
#22
Originally Posted by Slowhawk
The first thing I would do is completely ditch the PCV system and run a breather.This will rule out any oil in the intake.I've seen alot of 408's suck in alot of oil in the intakes.
After 1k miles if it still uses excessive oil then I would look at the heads.
After 1k miles if it still uses excessive oil then I would look at the heads.
02-22-2007, 09:54 AM
#23
Originally Posted by LostCauseZ06
cobra killer... mine does the exact same thing... check your rear crank freeze plug next time you have a chance. mine leaks 4 drips off the back and when i dyno'd my car and tuned it that night i lost about the same amount of oil.. im not burning any oil.. its all leaking out.
02-22-2007, 09:57 AM
#24
Originally Posted by thunder550
I had already plugged off the driver's side port because I went to an LS6 valley cover - I capped off the PCV ports on the manifold and throttle body, left the driver's side valve cover port plugged, ran a hose straight from the valley cover to the passenger valve cover where the hose to the TB used to be, and put a cheapo breather in the oil cap. Hopefully that does the trick.
I also have a small breather in the back, driver's side valve cover nipple. If I understand what you are doing correctly, you have no vent on the driver's side whatsoever.
02-22-2007, 10:26 AM
#25
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
I also have a small breather in the back, driver's side valve cover nipple. If I understand what you are doing correctly, you have no vent on the driver's side whatsoever.
02-23-2007, 08:23 AM
#27
it's been so long since I seen mine in stock trim that I can remember how it connects via "the stock transfer tube" to the passenger side. I bought a little k&N breather and slipped it over the nipple and clamped it down with a hose clamp on the rear drivers side.
02-23-2007, 10:00 AM
#28
FormerVendor
I would be a little worried about those gapless rings but the other things you have mentioned could be a problem too and should be checked out first. I haven't ever seen the gapless rings work very well on a regular wet sump engine myself that much. Also here in Houston several people have used the gapless stuff as well and had similar symptoms that were cleared up by changing back to regular rings. Still I'd check the most obvious stuff first.
02-23-2007, 11:11 AM
#33
FormerVendor
The second ring gapless is not that good since it unloads the top ring. The top gapless is a much better idea but it still seems to oil usually without a vacuum pump or dry sump it seems most of the time. Ten people will tell you ten different reasons but I know 3 sponsors on ths site that tried them and all had oiling or smoking problems fwiw.
02-23-2007, 11:11 AM
#34
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Might be a stupid comment here but if you are having all these problems and someone built that motor for you why don't you take it back to them until they get it right?
02-23-2007, 11:12 AM
#35
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My second ring is not gapless, only top.
I can't just take the motor back. I had a machinist build the shortblock, but I did final assembly on heads and everything else. I called him and asked, and he said he couldn't see the pistons and rings being a problem.
I can't just take the motor back. I had a machinist build the shortblock, but I did final assembly on heads and everything else. I called him and asked, and he said he couldn't see the pistons and rings being a problem.
02-23-2007, 11:15 AM
#36
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Originally Posted by oange ss
if they're too tight they'll score the cylinder wall..
02-23-2007, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by oange ss
cool, just tryin to help narrow down the possibilties...
02-23-2007, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by cablebandit
what heads? sounds like you got some TSP Darts...if so call jason/trevor and theyll get it right