JohnnyZ28

I went to Speed, Inc. in Chicago and had my cam installed along with springs, retainers, etc. Cam specs in sig.

Anyways, I put 450 miles on the car since I got it back. It was a 380 mile drive home.

Once I got home both service engine lights came on. When I called they told me to have the car scanned and call them back. They said if the lights arent flashing then its no problem. Well, when I tried to get the car scanned I didnt get any readings back.

Im just curious if this is common and all. I also have another problem. I layed down very nice numbers for basically a cam only car.

My friend has a 2002 Camaro with IDENTICAL parts to my car before I had all the work done. Only difference was he had Nitto DR's. From a dig he would pull 1/4 everytime we shifted. He would hook and Id spin a bit. So, it ended up being about a length and a half or so.

Now that I got all this done I only pull a length on him. This was racing through 2nd and 3rd gear. Please tell me $4K+ will get me more than a length. I also paid $400 for tuning and it feels like the car runs strong.

When I also start the car I have to give it gas to keep it from killing. After 2 minutes then the car will hold an idle by itself.

Please help! Thanks.

John

My SIG:
2001 NBM Camaro Z28 M6
Engine: 224/224 .581/.581 112LSA Cam, Chrome Moly Pushrods, Comp 918 Springs, Titanium Retainers, SLP LT's w/ORP, MSD Wires, NGK TR6's, Star Stage III Clutch, KB-DD SFC's, Nitrous Express - 125, SLP LM exhaust, Whisper Lid/K&N, Pro 5.0 Short Shifter.

Appearance: 18x9.5 Chrome Z06 Wheels w/ Kumho Supra 712's - 275/35/18, MAC Progressive Rate Lowering Springs.

Engine: 398.7rwhp / 389.4rwtq.
N20: ???.?rwhp / ???.?rwtq.

12.68@110.7mph - lid/filter, loudmouth

New times coming soon!

PWRTRIP

what was 4,000 dollars ?

JohnnyZ28

Cam, Headers, springs/retainers, sfc, clutch, plugs/wires, y-pipe, guage install, installation and tuning.

It cost closer to $4800, but that was because my alternator took a dump and they charged $340 for labor to install and the alternator.

someday

what do u mean by "BOTH service engine lights"??? u have 2??

JohnnyZ28

I'll check real quick. Okay, 1 says "SERVICE VEHICLE" and the other once says, "SERVICE ENGINE SOON". The first light is underneathe the tach, the other light is above the speedo.

My airbag light is also on as well... wtf?

JohnnyZ28

Any other help here? Im looking for what could be wrong with the car.

Is there anyway to know without scanning it? I dont know any local shops that have LS1 edit or anything. Thanks.

PWRTRIP

I ask about that price because I too want to head to Speed Inc. once my QTP headers, ORY, etc come in..TR224 cam kit (918 springs, chro-moly pushrods, titanium retainers)is sitting in my room and I was going to head there for the install and dyno tuning and looking to see what its gonna cost me

Jabroni

Is this common? Yes. A 112 LSA cam will throw a "Random Misfire" code which I believe is P0300. There are a couple of ways around it: You can periodically tap your throttle when you are idling and that may keep it from coming on, or you can also adjust it with LS1edit to "desensitize" it. For example, you can raise the RPM limit where it will start to detect misfires. I had mine tweaked and no SES lights. As for the airbag light...I'm lost on that one. Something screwy is going on, I just don't know where.

jmX

A random misfire will show up as a BLINKING SES light, not a solid one, so if its not blinking you have abnormal issues. All your lights should be off. Something is not right.

For $4800 everything should be perfect. Somebody in your area MUST have an autotap to scan the codes. Heck, even a local parts store might have a scanner they can use on your car.

someday

the 'service vehicle' light is for the body computer, i think, and since ur airbag light is on, there's a place to start... SES light is engine related, of course... u don't know anyone at a GM dealer who could check a code for u?

Silverchickn

iTrader: (1)

I dont know if you have any Autozone parts stores up in your area but they have scan tool for our cars.

last of the Z28's

man i would be pissed! almost 5000 g's and problems? as far as the airbag.... are there sensors or grounds in the engine bay that might not be fastened? hell id take it to get diagnosed then flip the bill to speed inc if it can be remotely tied to their work!! good luck and keep us updated!

JohnnyZ28

Well, they charged me $350 for dyno tuning and its normally $500. Also, they charged me $600 labor for install on the internals, cam, and LT headers. They charged me $150 for guage install and other misc. installs. They didnt even have all the right parts to finish the n20 stuff. I have to do that stuff myself.

I found the airbag light problem. They used the airbag fuse for a power relay for the N20 switch panel. That fuse was blown for whatever reason. Im assuming there is a crossed wire somewhere.

As far as the lights, they dont flash.. they stay solid. When I called they said if it stays on that its "normal".

So, I think I was overcharged on some of the installation stuff, but oh well.

PWRTRP: If you have all the parts Im sure you could have someone else do all the work. I think I rushed them a bit, they only had 3 days to complete my car. It was worth the drive but it was boring as hell because there is so much construction'traffic that the city was retarded. Not to mention Six Flags isnt open yet.

The car made good power but it doesnt seem that 2-3 car lengths was worth all that extra money. I was expecting somewhere between 7-10 lengths for that chunk of change. Now, my car is just going to have ongoing problems with replacing springs, 12 bolt rear end... and anything else they may happen.

Im disappointed and if I could do it again I would have left my car the way it was.

Im so tempted to sell my car and get an Escalade on 22's or something pimp. But, I know I wouldnt get a nickle back on what I put into my car.

Im gonna try and goto another parts store to see if I can get my car taken care of.

StrongWS6

Damn your telling me you dyno almost 400rwhp and you can only pull 2 cars on a car making 323rwhp? I would take it back and ask them whats wrong.

JohnnyZ28

Well, I found out what the codes were. They were J0533 I believe was the code. There were 4 total. 3 were the same problem which were the 02 sensors on the left bank. I had the codes cleared and good luck so far with the light not comming back on.

The airbag light now came back on. There is a wire going into it which is used for power on the n20 switch panel. It keeps blowing up the 20A fuse. Any remidies to this? Should I be using a different fuse for the power? Thanks.

StrongWS6: When I called to tell them my car was slow stil they said, "you cannot compare them on the street, take it to the track".

Well, we raced until 140mph last night and I barely had 2 lengths. I also took a week of my vacation time, spent $450 on Hotels+Food+Gas+spending money. It was roughly another grand in addition to all the parts I had installed.

I cant really "take it back". Im gonna dyno it here and make sure the numbers are close, otherwise I'll be pissed.

They also replaced my cam, springs, pushrods. They didnt even change my oil. They said the oil is only changed if they do the "heads" at the same time. So, I was thinking they changed the oil. I went 1500 miles over my oil change and had only like 3.5 quarts of oil or less in the motor. I was fvcking pissed.

Oh well, Ill dyno it here, get it running right and goto the track.

I really doubt that my 18's make my car that much slower.

hawk664

Remove that wire from your ABS fuse, nothing should ever be tapped into an ABS circuit. This could cause your airbags not to deploy if needed.

StrongWS6

Good luck on your set up!

JohnnyZ28

What should I tap into then instead of the airbag? I dont know crap about electronics on cars. Thats why I paid Speed, Inc. to do the work.

Now, it just appears that Im doing the "odds and ends" that they messed up on.