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wanting to build 383! what parts? where from?

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Old 12-13-2007, 08:37 AM
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Default wanting to build 383! what parts? where from?

as the title states. wanting to build a 383 ls1. Best parts and where to get them?
Old 12-13-2007, 09:08 AM
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a good start would be a callies crank. I personally chose the following parts: callies crank, manley rods, diamond pistons, morel lifters, and a futral cam.
Old 12-13-2007, 10:42 AM
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or get a short block from VRE or TSP...
Old 12-13-2007, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by teke184
or get a short block from VRE or TSP...
I have my block from the car. It'd be nice to get a whole new one and have an extra to play around with, but I'd like to be as cost efficient as possible while having a strong and reliable setup.
Old 12-13-2007, 09:04 PM
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well how much money u looking to spend how much hp u lookin to push? cause callies is going to handle the power but it isnt cheap
Old 12-13-2007, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by THEBRAD
well how much money u looking to spend how much hp u lookin to push? cause callies is going to handle the power but it isnt cheap
Look into the TSP Long Blocks they have so many options its insane.......BB.........SVTKILR
Old 12-14-2007, 06:44 AM
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the TSP 383 short block starts at $3650.....and you can upgrade from there.

and with no core charge you can sell your current block, or play around with it.

pretty hard to beat, especially since they know how to build an engine right
Old 12-14-2007, 06:56 AM
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I'm rounding up the parts for a 383 right now also.

Check with Leo here: http://www.weberracing.net/

He has a very good price on a 383 rotating assembly
Old 12-14-2007, 11:40 PM
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I think if your going to build a motor, a short block from TSP wouldn't be a bad idea. But then again i understand saving as much money as possible is an issue as well. Either route you take good luck, and keep us posted.
-Joel
Old 12-15-2007, 11:33 PM
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what if you had a bare ls1 block what would you have to do to turn it into a 383, does it have to be resleeved?
Old 12-18-2007, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Emoney97ss
what if you had a bare ls1 block what would you have to do to turn it into a 383, does it have to be resleeved?
383 is just a stroker motor i don't believe anything has to be done to the block its just the moving internals right?
Old 12-18-2007, 03:48 PM
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The only change is a 4 inch stroke crank. you can add some more cubes if you punch it 30 over to get a 383. otherwise it is just below a 382 cid.'

What is with all the people who want to buy an engine. I say if you know how and have the tools do it yourself. that way you know what is done and the specs.
Old 12-18-2007, 05:00 PM
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is it even worth doing a 383 if your buyinga shortblock?

i not as fimiliar w/ gen 3 motors as i am the ol small blocks. i know when i built my s10 blazer that had a nice lil 355 in it, i was disapointed when i did the 383 stroker kit in it. not that it didnt give me some power but not what i was hoping for.
Old 12-19-2007, 09:16 AM
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well....1) I don't have a lot of time going to school full time and working full time. 2) working on cars all day, the last thing I really want to do is work on more, sounds lazy, but like I said I'm also in school. 3) I already have a shortblock, but if I could buy an assembled one and sell the one I have to make some $ back then why not?

It comes down to what someone prefers to do and if they have the time to do it or not.
Old 12-19-2007, 10:34 AM
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my 383 is a 4 inch crank a 3.905 bore. i was in the same boat...tight budget, but i was on a tight budget because my wife was pregnant
Old 12-19-2007, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by SSdreamz
my 383 is a 4 inch crank a 3.905 bore. i was in the same boat...tight budget, but i was on a tight budget because my wife was pregnant
what kind of heads and cam are you running and what kind of numbers you putting down?
Old 12-19-2007, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Sigforty
The only change is a 4 inch stroke crank. you can add some more cubes if you punch it 30 over to get a 383. otherwise it is just below a 382 cid.'

What is with all the people who want to buy an engine. I say if you know how and have the tools do it yourself. that way you know what is done and the specs.
Dude,if you could bore the block 30 over (which can't be done) the motor would be a 389 not a 383. You gain one cube with the cylinders being honed (3.095 bore).
Old 12-19-2007, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by david vericker
Dude,if you could bore the block 30 over (which can't be done) the motor would be a 389 not a 383. You gain one cube with the cylinders being honed (3.095 bore).
Oops...make that a 3.905 bore.
Old 12-20-2007, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by david vericker
Dude,if you could bore the block 30 over (which can't be done) the motor would be a 389 not a 383. You gain one cube with the cylinders being honed (3.095 bore).
I just took a stab at the boring numbers. I know more about old school chevy and those gen 1's are common to punch 30 over.
Old 12-20-2007, 09:53 AM
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For the cost, if you're going to buy a shortblock, save a little longer and get a 4.0" bore block with a 4.0" stroke crank for a 402. The extra bore will help the cylinder heads breath so much better. For the cost, it's the best option.

That's the route I plan on going. I'm waiting for GM to settle on a bore size first. The ls2 was 4.0, now the ls3 is even larger. I figure in a couple years they will have an alluminum 4.125 bore alluminum block that is just as inexpensive. I know that the ls7 is 4.125, but it's not even in the same ballpark as the ls2/ls3 price wise, plus I heard it's being discontinued in a year or so due to the cost factors.



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