2gofast

iTrader: (1)

I want to check my PTV clearance using the clay method.

Where do I get a solid lifter (part #, supplied, etc) to use. Should I just weld one of my hydraulic lifters together to make it solid and order individual replacements?

I am worried that the existing lifters will shorten while the clay is resisting the valve and will give me a false reading.

Thanks

2GOFAST - and trying to go faster!

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

I made them. If you have an old set, remove the clip and take it apart, you will see washers and such inside. Add washers/shims so you can just re-install the spring clip.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

Smart guy.

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

I like to use the actual lifters that are going in the motor when measuringn PTV clearance. Use a checking spring just strong enough to hold up the valve (doesn't need to be very strong at all) and you won't compress the lifter.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

if you use a checker spring to measure (as opposed to clay) you can use a regular lifter. The checker spring is not enough to push the lifter plunger down. Simply tighten the rocker down until all the play is gone from the pushrod and start measuring.

Or, similar to vettenuts method, ive heard of people tack welding the plunger of an old lifter.

bsf

iTrader: (7)

I made mine by reassembling some lifters with epoxy. Quick and easy.

2gofast

iTrader: (1)

I found some! Read an old post from a local member who said he made a whole set from 16 used lifters. Picking up 2 tomorrow - now to check the PTV.

I am going the clay method and see how that works.

I may do the dial indicator method also but I my cam is already buttoned up and I don't want to remove balancer and front cover to attach a cam wheel.

Is there a way to do it w/o a cam wheel??

-Joseph-

iTrader: (12)

I use test springs normally, but also have 2 homemade solid test lifters that I use in a mock-up motor when testing new combinations. With solid lifters you don't absolutely need test springs, and you can also use a feeler gage to check PtoV instead of a dial indicator if desired but I find it tedious when your used to a dial indicator for measurements.

You can check PtoV without a degree wheel when using clay, in fact most people that do the clay method probably never use a degree wheel. But if you use a dial indicator a degree wheel will help (and you can degree the cam in at the same time!).

This will help the people who check with a dial indicator: PtoV issues happen close to overlap (when both valves are slightly open), which is when that piston is at TDC, but not on the firing stroke. I normally check 10 degree's before TDC for intake and 10 degree's after TDC for exhaust, but depending on cam timing events and the size of the cam that may or may not be the closest point of clearance. I would check at TDC first of all then rotate the crankshaft slightly until the clearance is at its worst spot on each valve you check. Each degree of crank rotation can change the clearance an easy .005" so check quite a few spots in that area and find the tightest (smallest) clearance.

BTW if you are checking PtoV with the timing cover off, overlap happens for cylinder #1 is when both timing dots are pointed together (camshaft gear dot at 6 o-clock, crank gear dot at 12 o-clock), as if you were installing a camshaft. When both timing dots are at 12 o-clock position (both pointed straight up), thats the firing position for #1 cylinder and both intake and exhaust lifters are on the base circle of the camshaft. This is important for two reasons, 1st is that its the perfect location to set zero lash in the valvetrain for PtoV measurements. The 2nd other is its also the perfect camshaft location to measure lifter preload when your done measuring PtoV and selecting pushrod length like on the non-adjustable valvetrain that LS1's have.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Find TDC, mark your crank pulley on either side of TDC in 2 degree increments. If you have the pulley OD, you can compute the distance between marks.