nova2427

I just removed a stud and I'm having a difficult time placing it back in and I wanted to know if anyone made a long tap or a tap extension to clear the threads out?

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

Search is your friend.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/949297-cleaning-head-bolt-holes.html

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

you can grind down the side of an old head bolt, and run that through first to clean things out. Works well. Make sure there is no coolant in the holes btw, or you risk cracking the block

DanWS6

iTrader: (5)

That's what I did. I had bought a tap but after reading a few posts it appears that is not the way to do it.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

ARP males a thread chaser that doesn't remove metal, part # is home. That is what you need. Don't use a tap.

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

Part number for the ARP thread chaser is in the link I added in the 2nd post.
912-0011

nova2427

What do you mean grind down the side of a old head bolt? I'm just a little confused on what side?

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

A lot of guys have done it this way, but I never have. Go to http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=2 and scroll 1/2 way down, they talk about using the grinded down head bolt method.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

If he has any threads that may be partially damaged, I would not use this method, rather the ARP thread chased in post #2. This method could make things worse depending on the existing thread condition.

LS1C5Vette

iTrader: (11)

I used the stock head bolt grinded down on 2 head swaps now with no problems

nova2427

Ok...that seems easy enough. I just couldn't get the stud to seat as far down in the block as It needed to be. hopefully this method will help, unless some of the threads are damaged, then I might need a tap. If so, does anyone know where to find a tap that long?

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

The thread chaser in the above post is sold by SDPC and is long enough, it is made for this situation.

nova2427

the original head bolt worked great...Thanks for the tip!