LS6427

iTrader: (2)

And not give up any reliability.

I was told the biggest problem with high lifts for a daily driver was the pressure on the cam lobes.

So what do you think the highest, safe, reliable lift would be for say a max effort, pump gas, 434-454ci with an auto tranny.

650-700-750....more????????????


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Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

Pressure on the camshaft lobes??? Yes there is pressure but i am sure thats not the problem.
It's all the other pressure on the valvetrain.
I am almost in the same boat as you, i just had a 440 build and i am thinking camshaft now and i can not see running over .650" even when my car is only driven 100 miles a week, if that?
If you were a DD on a solid set up, thats much more pressure than a hyd set up.

I would stay hyd. and not lift more than .660".

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

So where is the most stress/pressure when going high lift?


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Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

I can not answer that.
I do know it's not your camshaft lobes. I know the higher the lift the lower the life on your springs. I want to guess the rocker arm has the most stress.

Someone else will chime in and give you more information.

What do you plan on going? Solid or hyd lifters? Solid or hyd rockers?

StreetSilverado

iTrader: (17)

Why daily drive something with that much CI.? Just my .02 not trying to be rude. Anyway to answer your question I'd say no more than .640 to .650 lift.

narcszm

High lift is not inherently stressful to the valvetrain. Ramp rate of the cam lobe is stressful. Valve springs break and lifters collapse. Everything else is in the valvetrain is relatively bulletproof.

00SS6spd

iTrader: (3)

You can stay under .650 and still make plenty of power. The lift isn't what's going to make the power or determine its street manners, the duration is the bigger factor to consider.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Well, I want it to be daily drivable, but it will be my second car. Just to clarify that.

My best, most honest answer I can give is: My 427 with my ~500 RWHP is plain and simply pathetic and boring now. Its a grocery getter. Once you drive something like this for a few months, its old. And I'm going on 7 years with this engine.

I am either building a 434ci with a dual 300 shot (150/150)...using my LSX iron block I have in a crate.
OR
A resleeved LS2 454ci with a dual 300 shot (150/150).

"Hydraulic cam" for whichever I go with.

I want as much N/A power as I can get though, with pump gas, using an ITB Harrop intake and All-Pro heads (with the new CNC program at WCCH 420cfm is expected according to Richard at WCCH). He's what I'm waiting for.

Its gonna be my second car, weekend fun...so a pretty radical cam is cool with me, but daily drivable. The ITB intake and those heads are gonna be the magic in the power. My builder said to stick with .650 lift....I'm just asking what you guys think about it.

Seems .650 is the max without running into trouble.


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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Now that you mention it, he did say that the lifters will be the problem with all the stress from the cam lobes. Not actually wearing down the cam lobes themselves.


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Tom@SpeedInc

iTrader: (5)

we have customers DD with LPE GT11 cam .644" lift

we run either patriot extreme or PAC 1521 springs, haven't had an issue.

v8pwr

iTrader: (19)

The capability of your heads & intake I would run more than .650 lift . I wish I was having to make this decision . I'd run .680-.690 with the appropiate valvetrain and it'd run like a mfr . What will your compression be ? How big is that intake port ? What's your exhaust system consist of ? What kind of valves are you running in those All Pros ? I've got alot of questions for you that could help you decide on what you want . I can see you want naturally aspirated brutality

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Thats exactly what I want, raw N/A power, and alot of it. The spray will be for added ***** doing 50-180 runs on the highway.

I'm in contact with Richard at WCCH and I'm waiting for him to get done with his new CNC program for his All-Pro heads. Whatever valvetrain parts I need for the best reliability, I'll buy.

The Harrop ITB intake is exactly like this one, 55mm TB's each stack. This a 454ci LSX, daily driver on E85 and he made 752 RWHP. RWHP, its not FWHP. I spoke with this guy a few times to get that straight. This guy was making 680 RWHP, he picked up 65 RWHP by going to the Harrop 55mm ITB intake over his FAST 90/90.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/G...ETC_184408.htm

I'm figuring 1 7/8" stepped to 2", back to a Flowmaster merge 3" inlets/4" outlet, 4" electric cutout right there, then back to a MagnaFlow muffler.

Gonna go with 11.5:1. But I have absolutely no problem going 13.1 and running full time race gas......if it will be worth the power increase from 11.5:1 pump gas AND if 13.1 is ok with the spray. If I go with the 434ci and use my LSX iron block I'll be able to put the All-pro heads 6 bolts per cylinder to use. If I go resleeved LS2 454 I can't.


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v8pwr

iTrader: (19)

I'm very familiar with ITB manifolds which is why I pointed out the fact you're using very capable components . I really like the GTM car , if you remember notify me of it's completion . The peak HP gains are good but I think you may be more impressed with the midrange torque and quick throttle response . What vehicle is this going in ? Why would you build the LSX as a 434 but the resleeved LS2 as a 454 ? Why not build a 454 LSX ? I'd prefer the weight savings of the aluminum block but the LSX is considerably stronger which will benefit you in a little more power . I wouldn't raise the compression ratio much unless you're going solid roller . That will be an awesome build once completed , I'm in Florida you should take me for a ride I'll pay for gas

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

That GTM car has been done for awhile.

I'm putting the new engine in my WS6 and pulling out my 427ci. I also have a brand new built to the hilt 4L80E going in. Everything else in the car will remain.

I don't want to do the 454ci (4.185 bore x 4.125 stroke) with the LSX because of its short cylinders and a 4.125 stroke might be a little too long. You know, the whole piston coming too far out of the cylinder at BDC issue. The resleeved LS2 blocks get the new 5.8" long Darton sleeves, PLENTY of length for 100% support at BDC.

Or the 434ci LSX (4.155 bore x 4 stroke) and have BOTH plenty of piston skirt support and a ton of cylinder sidewall left for multiple rebuilds. It would probably be the last block I ever own. I could take it out to 4.185.

I think no matter which one I build the low and midrange power is going to be insane....I want my car to shine for top end pulls. I never mess around in the city, only on open highways with no other car in sight. Or the occassional on-ramp to a highway if there's nobody around. If I ever wipe out I'll definitely be the only car involved, ya know.

I'm also having Strange cut 3 inches off each end of my axle and I'll be putting 345 tires on the rear. Boze deep dish 12 x 18 rims. A guy on here has that set-up anxd its badass. Check out member "gorace" and see his pics.

What city in FL do you live?

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Trevor @ Texas Speed & Perf.

iTrader: (3)

How much lift you can get away with will be directly related to your valve spring and lifter setup. For hydraulic setups, our new PRC EHT valve spring kit is absolutely awesome. We have hard data that shows the new spring kit performing over DOUBLE the life of the standard dual spring kits that offered by quite a few vendors. The new spring kit will accomodate up to .675" lift, and we've personally tested it at .690" with no valve float issues at all. Also, keep in mind that the definition of streetable is very subjective. Does streetable involve 20,000+ miles per year or a trip to the grocery store once or twice a month? The key is having a stable valvetrain to be able to support whatever lift you're considering. Going solid opens up another can of worms.

Trevor
Texas Speed & Performance

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

It'll be driven 250 miles per month. But I still want to be able to take it on a 200 mile trip if need be. Since it'll be my second car and I won't have to worry about it going down for some reason, I want to go alot more radical than my 427, which actually feels almost like stock.

Whats with the solid roller.....more options? Higher lift with reliability?

v8pwr

iTrader: (19)

Solid Roller is just plain better . People complain about adjustments but your setup shouldn't change much after it's been broken in , if you have to keep adjusting there is a problem . It seems as if you're buying most of the components to go solid except for the lifters .

Josh@PremierAutosports

iTrader: (11)

Do you have a dyno graph of the car making 680whp through a fast intake? I wouldn't think it could flow enough for that.

For your build I would go solid roller with great lifters and Jesel rockers. If you are willing to run race gas a solid roller seams like a no brainer.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

That GTM car with the 454ci is Jesse Bubbs car. Onething it has which is about as close to zero drivetrain loss is a gt3 cupcar transmission, so that helps in the RWHP alot.

He's a tuner, you can probably get a dyno graph from him. He owns
www.Wait4meperformance.com

He also had a Wilson Sheet metal on before the FAST 90/90 and it only made like 4 more hp and would not idle worth a damn below 2,000 rpm. The Harrop idles smooth at 650 rpm.

TXGold

does that include fitzer valves?