What really needs replaced/Done if you lost a bearing.
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What really needs replaced/Done if you lost a bearing.
Like it says....I'm curious what a seasoned engine builder would want to do for a simple bearing loss and no hard parts failure on say a extremely low mileage forged engine?
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To truely do it right it needs to come clear apart and all the oil passages need cleaned out. If it has an oil cooler in needs to be at a minumun flushed out.If it is a rod i would have the crank measured for proper specs and turned ,polished,or replaced and the rods inspected as well.
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Coming apart was a Given. I suspect an oil pump bypass failure....I was more referring to what can be cleaned and re-used.
I know Ill need machine work and new bearing, checking clearances. What about Rings? (total Seal AP w/2500 miles) Can my oil pump be cleaned and re-used? (ported Precision pump already) Lifters?
I caught the loss in pressure quickly, but not qucikly enough to have not caused damage. I am just trying to figure out what will have to be replaced vs. re-usable. I dont want to throw money away for nothing as I built this motor right in the first place, its just unfortunate that it had some sort of oil failure. Im sure my hard launches all year at the racetrack didnt help matters.
I know Ill need machine work and new bearing, checking clearances. What about Rings? (total Seal AP w/2500 miles) Can my oil pump be cleaned and re-used? (ported Precision pump already) Lifters?
I caught the loss in pressure quickly, but not qucikly enough to have not caused damage. I am just trying to figure out what will have to be replaced vs. re-usable. I dont want to throw money away for nothing as I built this motor right in the first place, its just unfortunate that it had some sort of oil failure. Im sure my hard launches all year at the racetrack didnt help matters.
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Yeah, I guess these vendors that build motors daily and guys that work for them who frequent this board aren't qualified.
Once again, there's not much in this motor to upgrade, nothing was stock outside the crank and block, so all I was wondering was what "hAS" to be replaced vs. cleaned and checked. I can't see an oil pump that's simple to disassemble and clean needing replacement at the mileage this one has, but I wasn't sure. I guess I shouldn't have made a thread, it's quite obvious to me now that everuones opinions are different, and the guys I hoped might respond, didn't.
Once again, there's not much in this motor to upgrade, nothing was stock outside the crank and block, so all I was wondering was what "hAS" to be replaced vs. cleaned and checked. I can't see an oil pump that's simple to disassemble and clean needing replacement at the mileage this one has, but I wasn't sure. I guess I shouldn't have made a thread, it's quite obvious to me now that everuones opinions are different, and the guys I hoped might respond, didn't.
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Yeah, I guess these vendors that build motors daily and guys that work for them who frequent this board aren't qualified.
Once again, there's not much in this motor to upgrade, nothing was stock outside the crank and block, so all I was wondering was what "hAS" to be replaced vs. cleaned and checked. I can't see an oil pump that's simple to disassemble and clean needing replacement at the mileage this one has, but I wasn't sure. I guess I shouldn't have made a thread, it's quite obvious to me now that everuones opinions are different, and the guys I hoped might respond, didn't.
Once again, there's not much in this motor to upgrade, nothing was stock outside the crank and block, so all I was wondering was what "hAS" to be replaced vs. cleaned and checked. I can't see an oil pump that's simple to disassemble and clean needing replacement at the mileage this one has, but I wasn't sure. I guess I shouldn't have made a thread, it's quite obvious to me now that everuones opinions are different, and the guys I hoped might respond, didn't.
Obviously, it was not built right. Something was wrong or installed/assembled incorrectly as parts don't fail with ~2500 miles. Good luck with the rebuild, I hope you find out what went wrong.
Last edited by KCS; 12-24-2012 at 12:50 PM.
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I would say that considering You've had 1 pressure bypass issue already ,,,,,,I undrstand that it has only 2500 miles on it and that is even more reason IMO to replace that oil pump and I would certainly check out the 1 suggested 4 or 5 posts before . That to Me sounds like the best $100-150 You could spend at this point aside from the obvious ,,,,,bearings , rings, cleaning the sh_t out of the block n heads n ,,,,,,,,,,,,etc . I am going to check out the prev suggested pump and if I can swing it I'll buy 1 .
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It's not that they're not qualified, it's that they're not psychic. Anyone can give you their opinion as to what must be replaced, but even something as simple as a "bearing failure" can be more destructive than you might think.
Obviously, it was not built right. Something was wrong or installed/assembled incorrectly as parts don't fail with ~2500 miles. Good luck with the rebuild, I hope you find out what went wrong.
Obviously, it was not built right. Something was wrong or installed/assembled incorrectly as parts don't fail with ~2500 miles. Good luck with the rebuild, I hope you find out what went wrong.
Thanks for the responses that were made, Ill take it all in stride.
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Personally Id like to completely bypass the oil bypass relief. Someone explain to me why ANY ENGINE needs to bypass oil and not send it through the motor which would only cause damage. Im not sure I have ever understood the situation where this would be neccessary and how it would ever be helpful instead of harmful.
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That's a good question and possibly a good option . The only thing I've ever heard is that too high of oil pressure can cause oil leaks ,,,,,,,,,,,but I think I'd rather have some oil leaks as opposed to some spun bearings ,,,,,,,,,maybe google it ,,,,,I'm sure there's some good info there
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You have to have a bypass.
These pumps when rpm it put to them will move some oil.
I run a pump that has alot of inlet mods to it. Some things done to the rotor. porting and a check ball bypass rather than a piston.
If I don't let the engine get up to temp and the oil temp get over 170 mine will make over 100 psi at 1800 rpm.
I have a 60 psi spring in the bypass and it still goes over this. But the extra volume of oil is needed to keep the engine happy at 7500
Tim
These pumps when rpm it put to them will move some oil.
I run a pump that has alot of inlet mods to it. Some things done to the rotor. porting and a check ball bypass rather than a piston.
If I don't let the engine get up to temp and the oil temp get over 170 mine will make over 100 psi at 1800 rpm.
I have a 60 psi spring in the bypass and it still goes over this. But the extra volume of oil is needed to keep the engine happy at 7500
Tim
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I've looked into that pump that was suggested and I may actually use a version of that in both the motors I am currently working on. Would you care to inform or share with me some of the mods you have used gray hatch?