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Need info on gen 4 6.0L rods

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Old 02-24-2017, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by BigEd_72455
Hp Tuners, by what I have read, will adjust and modify any oem parameter in the computer. Again, by what I have read.
I agree with you on its capabilities, I have a friend that has it.
problem is pro version hptuner (which I'm assuming is the version that has some sort of Auto-VE capability, hopefully) is 700$, I already have a tec3.
Old 02-24-2017, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by DeathByNissan55
I agree with you on its capabilities, I have a friend that has it.
problem is pro version hptuner (which I'm assuming is the version that has some sort of Auto-VE capability, hopefully) is 700$, I already have a tec3.
use what you have and if you don't like the results, then look into HP Tuners.
Old 02-24-2017, 10:55 AM
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I think you're missing the bigger scope of the problem I'm facing.
I can PM you if you actually care haha
Old 02-24-2017, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by DeathByNissan55
lol sorry just trying to save money
You can save a ton of money by just switching out the reluctor and leaving everything else alone. If the shortblock was already assembled, then the rotating assembly should have already been balanced. Changing the reluctor isn't going to throw the balance off. With the LS rod cap design, you don't even need to pull the pistons and rods to get the crank out of the block.

Is the Gen IV stuff nicer? Sure. Would I be ripping apart a freshly assembled shortblock just to get the Gen IV stuff? Nope.
Old 02-24-2017, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by MuhThugga
You can save a ton of money by just switching out the reluctor and leaving everything else alone. If the shortblock was already assembled, then the rotating assembly should have already been balanced. Changing the reluctor isn't going to throw the balance off. With the LS rod cap design, you don't even need to pull the pistons and rods to get the crank out of the block.

Is the Gen IV stuff nicer? Sure. Would I be ripping apart a freshly assembled shortblock just to get the Gen IV stuff? Nope.
He told me he did not get anything balanced because he used all oem pistons and rods, just aftermarket rings and bearings and bolts. So thats why I was mentioning balancing.
He also said he didnt get crank polished, I didnt ask him if he meant that it didnt need to get polished, but he just said he didnt have it polished.

if crank is out I would want it polished, and yea changing reluctor ring is like 75$ labor at a shop....they made it sound like they would be worried about runout of reluctor though.

Also, if I remove the crank, I'd have to get all new main cap bolts, so I'd just get the 230$ ARP studs to get it over with then I basically have an ARP engine haha.
Old 02-24-2017, 11:55 AM
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I'm aiming for 600hp, absolute max 800, so thats why i was saying if its out i might as well get gen 4 stuff so then its good past 1000Hp relatively reliably.
Old 02-24-2017, 12:07 PM
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The main stress point of rod bolts is RPM, not power. If you aren't revving to the moon, you're wasting money and chancing the possibility of a spun bearing.
Old 02-24-2017, 12:30 PM
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wouldnt hurt to be able to rev to the moon, and thats why you get rods redone when you get arp bolts.

:-)
Old 02-24-2017, 01:57 PM
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Fast
Cheap
Reliable

Pick two.
Old 02-24-2017, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by MuhThugga
Fast
Cheap
Reliable

Pick two.
I strongly disagree.
Old 02-24-2017, 02:13 PM
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Got a McLeod RTX for 600$, used once....cheap, enables me to hook up fast, and its reliable.....BOOOOM
Old 02-24-2017, 02:38 PM
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Cheap is a relative term. $600 for a clutch may be cheap to you, but it is still more than what others pay for a brand new clutch setup.



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