Torque to yeild question. scary !
#1
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Torque to yeild question. scary !
Time to put my heads on my rebuild. Alum heads / Alum block . First time to experience TTY . Seems like a horrible amount of torque. How often have you guys had bolt failures or pulled threads out of the block. I feel like I am tearing them up. Please advise. Engine has sat for 2 weeks because I don't have the confidence to move forward.
#2
I've done many setups using the torque to yield bolts with no issues at all.
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Aaron @ Scoggin Dickey Parts Center
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Aaron @ Scoggin Dickey Parts Center
Email:Aaron387@sdparts.com
Phone: 1-800-456-0211 Ext: 324
#4
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I'm gonna take a real good guess and say you're working with a Gen III engine. If you're a backyard do-it-yourselfer, it may seem like it's right. Most likely you're using a store bought angle gauge. Guys who do this professionally or work on LS's alot will invest in a accurate TTY torque wrench. I, personally have all 3 drives, 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4". That's $1500 in 3 ratchets. But I also work on alot of LS motors and dirtbikes. So torque is critical on many of the bolts.
It's not likely a guy will lend out his $500 Tq wrench, but you might want to ask around and see if anyone that has one is willing to come over and tq the heads down for you just to be sure it's right.
My wrenches always display a final tq reading after a angled pass. I usually see about 85lbs-ft on the long bolts and 78-80 on the med. bolts, if I remember right. It's been a while since I've actually looked at it when doing it. My wrenches have lights, sound and vibrates when it reaches the tq setting. So I really don't pay much attention to the final tq reading.
It's not likely a guy will lend out his $500 Tq wrench, but you might want to ask around and see if anyone that has one is willing to come over and tq the heads down for you just to be sure it's right.
My wrenches always display a final tq reading after a angled pass. I usually see about 85lbs-ft on the long bolts and 78-80 on the med. bolts, if I remember right. It's been a while since I've actually looked at it when doing it. My wrenches have lights, sound and vibrates when it reaches the tq setting. So I really don't pay much attention to the final tq reading.
#5
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LOl ....a POS $5 angle gauge off the internet. you nailed it. I threw it away and used the marked bolt method. I guess I will see what happens after I get it in again. Retired and just wanted to rebuild one more engine before I gave it up. Things change.......... Thank you for the info. At this time in my life I would rather spend that much money on Jack Daniels than new torque wrenches LOL.
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All 11 mm bolts are the same length. I pulled this engine from my 07 avalanche. It had a dod lifter failure and took out the cam . I took out dod and afm with a cam and lifter change. Modded the rt valve cover ,hooded the oil return for the afm , changed the valley cover and am sending the ecu in for a flash and tune.I have no idea what this Frankenmotor is going to do when it starts but am looking forward to getting it back in .My avalanche is 10 years old but it is a loaded LTZ and still looks great so I wanted to save it. Plus the price of a new one made my my legs weak .
#9
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Why not just use ARP head bolts?
The late model arp head bolts are cheap (compared to the early style), plus you can reuse them over and over.
Oh and they are a traditional TQ spec with lube included
Just sayen...
The late model arp head bolts are cheap (compared to the early style), plus you can reuse them over and over.
Oh and they are a traditional TQ spec with lube included
Just sayen...
#10
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I agree with you wholeheartedly! Go with ARP bolts - simple torque pattern and torque specs!
Eddie