Fueling & Injection - Need help planning my fuel system

Hey all,

I've tried to teach myself as much as I can with search, but I have some questions still. I'm itching to pull the trigger on a D1SC on my forged 346. I'm going to max at about 650RWHP. I'm thinking a dual Walbro 255 in-tank setup (thank God for MM's sticky on that) with 60lb injectors. Here are a few questions:

1) Can I stick with the stock lines?
2) Can I stick with the stock rails?
3) Will I need a FPR up front?
4) I know it's a stupid question, but are there FP sending units that screw onto the Schrader valve on the end of the driver-side rail? If so, is there any reason not to use them?
5) Again, I realize this is an ignorant question, but will the Walbros produce more fuel pressure than the stock pump before I put the blower on? In other words, could I install only the pumps and keep the current tune and engine setup and drive the car to test the pumps out?

Thanks in advance, all. :)

We build the dual pump setup in your fuel bucket with a factory fit and finish that will allow you to run just the one pump all the time and the second will kick on under boost via supplied Hobbs switch. We start with 2 modified, flow tested and matched Walbro/Racetronix pumps install them with factory corrugated hose, clamps and filters. Rewire the entire bucket for dual 10 gauge feed wires and complete dual relay harness with all factory PnP connectors. All for a flawless 100% reliable delivery system.

With these pumps and the 60# injectors you can make up to 700 RWHP safely. Add our line kit (complete Stage3 Street kit) and you can max the boost of that D1 kit to whatever you want.

Nate

You can add a fuel pressure sender to the front of your rails I have them in stock. The bigger Walbro pumps have been known to add a psi or 2 but not enough to hurt your tune. Not to mention with our kit you can run one pump till you get the bower installed then the second just kicks on under boost.

Nate

Thanks for the reply, N8. So, for 650RWHP, you don't think the line kit and front FPR would be necessary, then?

Also, are the FP gauge sending units usually designed to go on a Shrader valve, or do I have to connect it in some other fashion?