Rear Vibration is KILLING ME>>>SOMEONE HELP
#1
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Rear Vibration is KILLING ME>>>SOMEONE HELP
first of all my setup
99 SS A4 - 4l60e
-BMR full length adjustable torque arm with relocation crossmember....poly mount is on the third hole from the bottom
on the crossmember
-SLP non adjustable panhard rod
-SLP non adjustable LCAs
-stock springs and shocks
-Dana 60 rear end with BMR LCA relocation brackets
First of all let me say I installed the Dana 60/torque arm and crossmember together and this thing has been vibrating excessively since then....vibration starts at about 60-65 mph and gets worse the faster you go
I have had the tires balanced, the driveshaft balanced, and tried pinion angle at 0, -1, -2, and -3....seems to be best around zero but the damn vibration WILL NOT GO AWAY!!!
it is mostly the entire console and shift **** vibrating but if I have anything in the center cupholder forget about it.....it's going to vibrate all over hell!!!
I can't drive the car on the interstate....it's just too annoying.....the only place I don't notice it at high speeds is the dragstrip but that is naturally because my foot is to the floor
I think i am going to try to remove the crossmember and mount the torque arm back on the tranny although I'd rather not......A broken tailshaft or two won't bother me if i can drive the car again!!!!!
HELP!!!
99 SS A4 - 4l60e
-BMR full length adjustable torque arm with relocation crossmember....poly mount is on the third hole from the bottom
on the crossmember
-SLP non adjustable panhard rod
-SLP non adjustable LCAs
-stock springs and shocks
-Dana 60 rear end with BMR LCA relocation brackets
First of all let me say I installed the Dana 60/torque arm and crossmember together and this thing has been vibrating excessively since then....vibration starts at about 60-65 mph and gets worse the faster you go
I have had the tires balanced, the driveshaft balanced, and tried pinion angle at 0, -1, -2, and -3....seems to be best around zero but the damn vibration WILL NOT GO AWAY!!!
it is mostly the entire console and shift **** vibrating but if I have anything in the center cupholder forget about it.....it's going to vibrate all over hell!!!
I can't drive the car on the interstate....it's just too annoying.....the only place I don't notice it at high speeds is the dragstrip but that is naturally because my foot is to the floor
I think i am going to try to remove the crossmember and mount the torque arm back on the tranny although I'd rather not......A broken tailshaft or two won't bother me if i can drive the car again!!!!!
HELP!!!
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There are several long posts on this subject.
Check to make sure your rear is centered and square. Your pinion angle can be pretty critical. Mine had to be within 0 to -1/2 degree to be vibration free. An aluminum driveline helps. Check your rear pinion yoke to make sure the runout is within tolerance (0.002 runout I think--I had a bad one). Finally, when everything else is right, just replace your rear u-joint. If you ran it with a mis-adjusted pinion angle, it doesn't take long to kill it. They can cause vibration before you can feel them being loose.
Check to make sure your rear is centered and square. Your pinion angle can be pretty critical. Mine had to be within 0 to -1/2 degree to be vibration free. An aluminum driveline helps. Check your rear pinion yoke to make sure the runout is within tolerance (0.002 runout I think--I had a bad one). Finally, when everything else is right, just replace your rear u-joint. If you ran it with a mis-adjusted pinion angle, it doesn't take long to kill it. They can cause vibration before you can feel them being loose.
#6
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damn bent axles?? I would think it would be a worse vibration than AI have if the axles were bent....My S60 is brand new but who knows
thanks for all the replies guys.....I noticed my rear is slightly off center so i have an adjustable panhard bar on the way to help with that and then we'll go from there
thanks for all the replies guys.....I noticed my rear is slightly off center so i have an adjustable panhard bar on the way to help with that and then we'll go from there
#7
I have a very similar situation... I notice the vibration when I let off the gas a little. But it's still kinda there when I'm on it. Mine starts at about 75-80 mph and when I pull it out of gear completely at 80 mph it seems at it's worst. Is the sound/vibration your experiencing a lower pitch somewhat loud murmer sound?
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#9
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I got my vibration problems fixed recently. Had a really bad vibration at high speeds just like you guys and it turned out to be a bad U-Joint because the pinion was off so much. After that the vibration on the highway was gone but had a constant drone from the rear and really nasty sounds, that turned out to be bad carrier bearings.
Sounds like you have already eliminated the problems that caused mine but figured I'd share.
Sounds like you have already eliminated the problems that caused mine but figured I'd share.
#10
loreak,
If you dont mind me asking how far off was the angle? Also how did you deduce that you needed to change the u joint after the readjustment of the angle?...THEN, how did u figure out to change the bearings? Sorry for all the questions, but im at a standstill with this damn thing
If you dont mind me asking how far off was the angle? Also how did you deduce that you needed to change the u joint after the readjustment of the angle?...THEN, how did u figure out to change the bearings? Sorry for all the questions, but im at a standstill with this damn thing
#11
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Simple stuff first:
Is your driveshaft steel? If so, change to aluminum and ensure balance.
Check the roadforce on the wheels and tires. You can have good balance and if your roadforce is out of spec, or even close, you WILL feel it.
Body mount torque arm will almost always cause vibes, that's why I got the tranny mounted unit. It simply wasn't meant to go on a street car, IMO.
Check the u-joints.
These are by far the most likely culprits, though the things mentioned above by the others are possible too.
Is your driveshaft steel? If so, change to aluminum and ensure balance.
Check the roadforce on the wheels and tires. You can have good balance and if your roadforce is out of spec, or even close, you WILL feel it.
Body mount torque arm will almost always cause vibes, that's why I got the tranny mounted unit. It simply wasn't meant to go on a street car, IMO.
Check the u-joints.
These are by far the most likely culprits, though the things mentioned above by the others are possible too.
#13
Not a dumb question... I just looked it up... See link.
http://www.basstire.com/roadforce/index.html
My vibration is def in the driveline... I pulled the driveshaft out a couple months ago to replace the rear seal and thats when it started to vibrate... I don't drive on the highway too often so i didn't notice right away. I greased the U-joints after installation and I'm thinking that either the drive shaft has to be reinstalled to the rear exactly as it was before removing it or that somehow a U-joint is now messed up. When you twist the driveshaft by hand how much if any play is tolerable? I'd say my driveshaft has about a 1/2" play... The rear end is a little noisy... not too bad though.
http://www.basstire.com/roadforce/index.html
My vibration is def in the driveline... I pulled the driveshaft out a couple months ago to replace the rear seal and thats when it started to vibrate... I don't drive on the highway too often so i didn't notice right away. I greased the U-joints after installation and I'm thinking that either the drive shaft has to be reinstalled to the rear exactly as it was before removing it or that somehow a U-joint is now messed up. When you twist the driveshaft by hand how much if any play is tolerable? I'd say my driveshaft has about a 1/2" play... The rear end is a little noisy... not too bad though.
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loreak,
If you dont mind me asking how far off was the angle? Also how did you deduce that you needed to change the u joint after the readjustment of the angle?...THEN, how did u figure out to change the bearings? Sorry for all the questions, but im at a standstill with this damn thing
If you dont mind me asking how far off was the angle? Also how did you deduce that you needed to change the u joint after the readjustment of the angle?...THEN, how did u figure out to change the bearings? Sorry for all the questions, but im at a standstill with this damn thing
I took it to a transmission shop and they said a big reason why i was getting vibration was because one of the ujoints had tons of play in it and was shot. They also removed the rear cover and checked the bearings and found them to be shot as well, which they attributed to the ujoint causing vibrations as the cause. I just bought a 3.5" Chromoly shaft from www.spohn.net and threw the old driveshaft out.
#15
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Man, I would say the Torque Arm is your main offender for actually feeling the vibes. It's allowing noise transmission to your butt that was isolated before. Maybe the stock setup was concealing an actual u-joint or bearing problem, or maybe you're now getting a normal amount of vibration that you simply couldn't feel before. Only way to know if there is an actual problem is to start tearing stuff down. Be prepared for getting everything fixed and still feel more vibes than you did stock.
#16
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Hey, how many of you guys with vibrations have swaped driveshafts? I did when I twisted my stock one and I replaced it with what I was told was a bone stock aluminum DS from a 98-02 f-body that I ordered from a wrecking yard.
Well ever since I put the new shaft in I've had a bad vibe from 50mph and up even though the new shaft is balanced it turns out its about 3/4 of an inch too short.
Fom the transmission tail house to the flange on the slip yoke I have a 1 1/2" gap and apparently anymore than 3/4" of an inch gap here will cause bad driveline vibrations that feels Like a bad U-joint or an unbalanced shaft...
Just ordered a new shaft this weekend should have it in by wed or thursday will update my post then regarding whether or not it fixed my vibrations...
I am kind of curious though how many of you have checked this and how much of a gap everyone with vibrations has...
Well ever since I put the new shaft in I've had a bad vibe from 50mph and up even though the new shaft is balanced it turns out its about 3/4 of an inch too short.
Fom the transmission tail house to the flange on the slip yoke I have a 1 1/2" gap and apparently anymore than 3/4" of an inch gap here will cause bad driveline vibrations that feels Like a bad U-joint or an unbalanced shaft...
Just ordered a new shaft this weekend should have it in by wed or thursday will update my post then regarding whether or not it fixed my vibrations...
I am kind of curious though how many of you have checked this and how much of a gap everyone with vibrations has...
#17
Hmmm... My DS appears to be stock aluminum... and it appears that I've had a tie strap rubbing against my driveshaft right on the weight but it looks like it has only worn the finish slightly. Going from memory I believe I have about an 1 1/2" gap at the tail housing. Are you looking at it under load or are the rear tires in the air? I rotated my DS on the rear flange and I notice no improvement in my vibration issue. My vibration is directly linked to whether I'm on the gas or or coasting. When I coast it's bad. I'm going to have to look at 10 bolt now. Definitely let us know how the new DS goes...
#18
Hey, how many of you guys with vibrations have swaped driveshafts? I did when I twisted my stock one and I replaced it with what I was told was a bone stock aluminum DS from a 98-02 f-body that I ordered from a wrecking yard.
Well ever since I put the new shaft in I've had a bad vibe from 50mph and up even though the new shaft is balanced it turns out its about 3/4 of an inch too short.
Fom the transmission tail house to the flange on the slip yoke I have a 1 1/2" gap and apparently anymore than 3/4" of an inch gap here will cause bad driveline vibrations that feels Like a bad U-joint or an unbalanced shaft...
Just ordered a new shaft this weekend should have it in by wed or thursday will update my post then regarding whether or not it fixed my vibrations...
I am kind of curious though how many of you have checked this and how much of a gap everyone with vibrations has...
Well ever since I put the new shaft in I've had a bad vibe from 50mph and up even though the new shaft is balanced it turns out its about 3/4 of an inch too short.
Fom the transmission tail house to the flange on the slip yoke I have a 1 1/2" gap and apparently anymore than 3/4" of an inch gap here will cause bad driveline vibrations that feels Like a bad U-joint or an unbalanced shaft...
Just ordered a new shaft this weekend should have it in by wed or thursday will update my post then regarding whether or not it fixed my vibrations...
I am kind of curious though how many of you have checked this and how much of a gap everyone with vibrations has...
#19
Hmmm... My DS appears to be stock aluminum... and it appears that I've had a tie strap rubbing against my driveshaft right on the weight but it looks like it has only worn the finish slightly. Going from memory I believe I have about an 1 1/2" gap at the tail housing. Are you looking at it under load or are the rear tires in the air? I rotated my DS on the rear flange and I notice no improvement in my vibration issue. My vibration is directly linked to whether I'm on the gas or or coasting. When I coast it's bad. I'm going to have to look at 10 bolt now. Definitely let us know how the new DS goes...
#20
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Hmmm... My DS appears to be stock aluminum... and it appears that I've had a tie strap rubbing against my driveshaft right on the weight but it looks like it has only worn the finish slightly. Going from memory I believe I have about an 1 1/2" gap at the tail housing. Are you looking at it under load or are the rear tires in the air? I rotated my DS on the rear flange and I notice no improvement in my vibration issue. My vibration is directly linked to whether I'm on the gas or or coasting. When I coast it's bad. I'm going to have to look at 10 bolt now. Definitely let us know how the new DS goes...