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Backfiring, Smoking, Ready to Sell Car (just looking for ideas)

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Old 03-25-2009, 08:10 PM
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Default Backfiring, Smoking, Ready to Sell Car (just looking for ideas)

Well I'm at a complete loss as to what might be wrong with my 98 Z28. Perhaps someone has an idea.

Over the winter I changed a few things. Prior to the project, I had a T-Rex camshaft with stock heads and everything seemed peachy. Well I decided I wanted to put some heads on it, and make it easier to tune by going to a 2000+ PCM. Here's what I changed:

Used CNC ported 853 heads with 918 springs slightly milled to 62CC (perhaps I have a bad spring)
2000 PCM out of a 2000 Trans-Am (repinned to work with my 98 Camaro, everything seems fine with it)
New MLS Gaskets
New LS7 lifters
New Comp 7.350 Pushrods
New TR55 spark plugs
New MSD plug wires
Flycutted Pistons

The result... constant backfiring and smoking. I don't have any misfire codes, but wow it sounds terrible. It WILL NOT run on it's own (ie Idle). My only codes are for the deleted AIR and EGR (but I have yet to change the codes on the PCM, so this is no surprise to me). I've checked the plugs and wires hundreds of times, and can't find anything wrong there... even went back to the stock wires just for ***** and giggles. I thought that maybe piston to valve clearance was in jeopardy, but after pulling the driver's side head, that doesn't seem to be the case.

Could I have bought a shitty set of heads? I had a valve job done on them and had them cleaned up before installing... only thing not checked were the valve springs... could one of them be bad? I'm at a complete loss... tired of throwing money at this thing. I have terrible luck with this car, and being in Utah there really aren't any shops that specialize in LSx stuff out here so I don't know what to do. If I can't figure it out, I'm selling it. I know someone else out there has way more know-how than I do and could figure it out.

Should I try a compression check? Just curious what steps I should take to try and diagnose this before selling it or "accidentally" starting it on fire. Thanks.
Old 03-25-2009, 08:45 PM
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Post a clip of the car running, also A compression check would be a good place to start. or get it towed to the shop you were gonna have set the tune up...
Old 03-25-2009, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by cabech984
Post a clip of the car running, also A compression check would be a good place to start. or get it towed to the shop you were gonna have set the tune up...
First of all, thank you for responding. I'll get a clip of the car running. No shops around here specialize in working on F-Bodies, so I'm kind of on my own here. I just don't know what it could be. I will get a clip of it as soon as I can. We're supposed to get snowed on, and with no garage I'm **** out of luck as far as working on it when the weather sucks. I'll do a compression check sometime this week (weather permitting) and post back the results. Thanks again.
Old 03-25-2009, 08:57 PM
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When you put it together did you check the valve to piston clearance.With that cam and milled 5.3 heads you might of bent some valves if things were not checked properly.From the way you say it runs,sounds like a few bent valves.Have someone do a leakdown test of all eight cylinders.Or compression test.
Old 03-25-2009, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by NHRAFORMULA00
When you put it together did you check the valve to piston clearance.With that cam and milled 5.3 heads you might of bent some valves if things were not checked properly.From the way you say it runs,sounds like a few bent valves.Have someone do a leakdown test of all eight cylinders.Or compression test.
Hey, thanks for the response. The heads are only slightly milled and aren't 5.3 heads. I turned it over after installing everything, and had no problems turning it over. I know that isn't the RIGHT way to check, but with flycutting the pistons and the very very small mill job, I figured I probably gave myself enough room (my luck I probably didn't, my lucks sucks). Anyways, I pulled the driver's side head and didn't see any signs of the valves hitting the pistons, but I'll do a leakdown test and see what I find. It seriously sounds like it's igniting fuel when it's not supposed to. Like I said, I've checked that all the wires are on the right coils, the coils aren't backwards or anything. It's just crazy. The backfire is a really horrendous POP, and like I said it will not idle at all. Thanks again for the response. The ideas and opinions are greatly appreciated!
Old 03-25-2009, 09:18 PM
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Before you sell it or burn it can you send me back the throttle cables you haven't paid for?
Old 03-25-2009, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Thorny
Before you sell it or burn it can you send me back the throttle cables you haven't paid for?
Can we please keep this on topic? That problem is between me and you. I'm doing all I can to address that problem. I will PM you now. Sorry to everybody who now believes I'm a ******* thief.
Old 03-25-2009, 09:32 PM
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is it poping out the intake or exhaust? could be a number of things ignition timing, cam timing, bad cam or crank sensor, cracked spring, i'd do a compression check first, if it's good you could rules out bent valve or bad spring,
Old 03-25-2009, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 01screaminchickin
is it poping out the intake or exhaust? could be a number of things ignition timing, cam timing, bad cam or crank sensor, cracked spring, i'd do a compression check first, if it's good you could rules out bent valve or bad spring,
Much appreciation for the response! The POP is definitely coming from the exhaust. Would the PCM throw a code if the cam or crank sensor were bad? EFILive shows RPM when cranking it over so I know it's getting a signal from the crank sensor. Guess the next step will indeed be a compression/leakdown test. Thanks again for the response.
Old 03-26-2009, 01:09 AM
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Did you get the coil signal wires right? Sounds like it is cross wired from that way you say it's backfiring and all. I would trace down each of those wires to make sure each injectory is firing on the right cylinder and that each coil is doing the same. I don't know if this has anything to do with it or not but if you look at a 98 LS1 tune you will notice that the firing order is moved 1 spot to the right from a 99-up tune. Again that may be something completely computer related but it could be something too. Just another thought for ya there.

Im also interested to see where you got your re-pinning information cause I'd like to do the same to my 98 T/A to take advantage of the extra tables and RTT.
Old 03-26-2009, 11:09 AM
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Why did you use a 7.350 pushrod, if the heads are only milled to 62cc, correct me if I am wrong you should have used a 7.4 just a thought?
Old 03-27-2009, 03:09 AM
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Just curious, did you do any type of tuning once you installed the 2000+ ECU? Did I miss something?
Old 03-27-2009, 03:34 AM
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dude, 918's on a trex? hello?!
Old 03-27-2009, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by kmracer
dude, 918's on a trex? hello?!
Srsly. Could be valve float?
Old 03-27-2009, 08:35 AM
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anyone else notice that the pushrods are not 7.400? and also the 918's you already picked up on............. the pushrods are too short even for a 62cc milled head.
Old 03-27-2009, 10:35 AM
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I mentioned the push rods about 5 replys above this one I guess it fell on deaf ears? my educated guess would be the pushrods being too short????
Old 03-27-2009, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 525sc777
I mentioned the push rods about 5 replys above this one I guess it fell on deaf ears? my educated guess would be the pushrods being too short????
sorry i did actually notice that after i posted.... im in agreement with you




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