Predator

Fellas, I switch the ignition on and the car clicks like crazy but starter won't crank, and so the car won't start. I checked for codes and there are none. I also swapped the fan relay with the ignition relay and still no luck. The battery is good and I even tried starting the car with a battery charger hooked up. The battery by itself is about 12.7 volts. What's most likely the problem, solenoid, starter? Thanks.

Predator

Also when I switch the ignition off, the gauges go crazy sweeping. Any ideas? Thanks.

NonGoggleGuy

If it doesn't start with a jump, the solenoid/starter is bad.

sasquatch

iTrader: (2)

Tested the alternator?

If the you think the starter might be the problem have someone turn the ignition on and tap the starter motor with a prybar. If its locked up that might break it loose.

Predator

Thanks for the reply, but what about the ignition switch or BCM module?

I started the car earlier today and let it idle for about 30 minutes and shut it down thinking everything was great. A couple hours later I wanted to go for a spin and it wouldn't crank, just clicking. One thing I've thought of is that I recently started using the wheel tilt up and I'm wondering if that compromised the wires to the ignition switch?

Predator

Thanks, I really can't imagine the starter because it always worked perfectly, plus I only got 15k miles on the car. I thought that starters acted funky before they gave out, not working perfectly and all of a sudden dying. I don't know.

NonGoggleGuy

If the starter teeth get ground, then it will be a slow, drawn-out process you'll be able to track.

However, if the motor or solenoid fails, your problems will be instantaneous and in-your-face. Before you jack up the car though, try jumping it. It might just be a weak battery with not enough umph to turn the motor.

Predator

It's not the battery dude, but thanks. Could be solenoid as you said, but I still think it's either the BCM module or ignition switch.

NonGoggleGuy

If it was the ignition switch, you most likely wouldn't even get a click out of the solenoid. Like another said earlier, rap on the starter motor/solenoid with a large screwdriver while turning the key. Also check the tightness of the connection on the starter.

I HIGHLY doubt it's the BCM or ignition switch; but I've been wrong before. That's how we learn.

NonGoggleGuy

As far as your needles going crazy... ???? might've been a fluke. Does it still do that?

Predator

When I switch the ignition off every time the needles sweep.

I need to dig into my Helm's manual and see what I can find. I think the needles reacting like that could mean something. Another possibility is the crank position sensor.

The reason I don't think it's the battery is because I tried starting the car with the charger hooked up, and the battery reads 12.7 volts by itself. However the battery did get run down over the winter but I charged it and it worked fine until today. The only possibility with the battery I can think of is maybe the cranking power is shot but the voltage is good. And yet the battery has been very strong since recharging it until today. I don't know.

Thanks for your help!

NonGoggleGuy

Even though the battery reads 12.7V doesn't mean it's good. When I store my car in the winter, I unhook the battery unless I have access to it to start it periodically. Since it's free at AutoZone, and since you haven't had it tested, it's a good idea to do it. And also, since you said you charged it, every charge will decrease the life of the battery. I'd get it checked.

Marc 85Z28

iTrader: (8)

Really? You load tested the battery? What was the CCA? A dead/discharged battery can still show 12.6V

You have a lack of current at the starter. It's going to be either a battery, which is most likely, or a bad battery connection or cable.

NonGoggleGuy

Yup. Marc said it better.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Gotta be the battery man, or the connection to it. Mine did the exact same thing when the battery died. Click-click-click-click-click, battery voltage seemed ok, radio and horn was normal. Replaced battery, all fixed for over a year now.

My old battery was 10 years old, original off the assembly line

Predator

Okay dude, thanks, I'll take a serious look at the battery. It's only a few years old, Diehard Gold. I hope you're right. The 12.7 voltage is what threw me. I left the battery in the car over the winter thinking I would drive the car, but the car sat for a few months in a very cold New England winter, plus I don't have any DTCs so you're probably right.

I have a brand new battery in my TBSS. I'll see if I can hook it up to my T/A and see what happens. Thanks for help! And NonGoogleGuy you were probably right all along, thanks again.

NonGoggleGuy

Not a problem. Good luck!

Predator

Marc, sorry, I didn't see your post, but I think you're right. No, I didn't load test the battery. What sort of equipment do you need to load test a battery? The more I think about this, it must be the battery because of the situation it was subjected to this winter, plus it was completely discharged when I recharged it. Thanks for help! Appreciate it.

Predator

Thanks, I'll try my TBSS battery tomorrow and let you guys know what happened.

Predator

Sorry it took so long to get back to you. I just went to Sears yesterday and bought a Diehard Platinum and all is good in Mudsville again, so the battery was the problem.

Thanks for the help!