Best "cheap" speaker (under $100)
04-12-2009, 07:54 AM
#4
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dont put 4" in. will just have good and less quality speakers. either just 6.5s in front or 6.5s in all corners. i did 2 pair of polk db6501s and it worked out great, except the monsoon radio and amp put out too much low to the rears which makes the panel they are attached to rattle but im switching to aftermarket so that wont be a problem anymore.
04-13-2009, 09:00 AM
#7
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dont put 4" in. will just have good and less quality speakers. either just 6.5s in front or 6.5s in all corners. i did 2 pair of polk db6501s and it worked out great, except the monsoon radio and amp put out too much low to the rears which makes the panel they are attached to rattle but im switching to aftermarket so that wont be a problem anymore.
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04-13-2009, 10:45 AM
#8
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Your best bet is changing the front doors and sail panels. Don't waste your money on the hatch speakers. If they crackle, simply unplug them. As for brand, it's really preference and intentions. If you plan on adding aftermarket amplifiers, consideration for a higher RMS speaker would be good.
If you plan on keeping the monsoon, or ONLY adding an aftermarket radio... just about anything works. All of the speakers you mentioned are quality and reputable brands. In my opinion, if your forking out the cash for some mid level Fosgates... Apline or JL audio may be a better route (both not mentioned on your list). If your going with the base models, find whatevers cheapest.
Also, as a heads up if you keep the monsoon/factory amp setup and switch the Sail panel speakers, they will play MOSTLY mid bass as thats how the factory amp x-over is set up. Don't expect better vocals. If you get an aftermarket headunit, you will be able to get vocals by bypassing the factory amp.
If you plan on keeping the monsoon, or ONLY adding an aftermarket radio... just about anything works. All of the speakers you mentioned are quality and reputable brands. In my opinion, if your forking out the cash for some mid level Fosgates... Apline or JL audio may be a better route (both not mentioned on your list). If your going with the base models, find whatevers cheapest.
Also, as a heads up if you keep the monsoon/factory amp setup and switch the Sail panel speakers, they will play MOSTLY mid bass as thats how the factory amp x-over is set up. Don't expect better vocals. If you get an aftermarket headunit, you will be able to get vocals by bypassing the factory amp.
04-13-2009, 01:00 PM
#9
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i suggest the polk db6501s i mentioned unless you have a lot more money to put in. i dont suggest none at all. since the polks were rattling the rear panels which arent made to take lows, i turned the rears off and the sails down some so they would not over power the fronts. it doesnt sound nearly as good. you dont have the surrounded by sound feel. everything was at same volume which wasnt too loud and no distortion but I still got a headache from having just front on fairly quickly. you can always get a cheap bass reducer or blocker for the rears, im not bothering though since as soon as i get back i'll start installing a carputer and an amp with a high crossover.
04-13-2009, 06:46 PM
#10
The speakers are going in a GTM. I can only fit two 5 1/4 door speakers, a sub under the dash and maybe 2 small 3.5" or 4" speakers in the tunnel. What are your thoughts on Rockford Fosgate 4, 5 1/4, or 6"? I was planning on a 300/400 watt amp pushing a small 8" Punch sub for some minor bass. The other speakers run off the deck only.
04-13-2009, 07:54 PM
#11
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I'm not familiar with GTM acoustics, but from personal preference and experience, 4 speakers on an aftermarket amp are your best bet. Components in the front with the woofer low and the tweeter mid level and not directly at you, and the rear acting as a fill not the major producer.
The goal is to pretend you’re at a concert, close your eyes, listen to the music, and in your head be able to pinpoint where each musician is standing. If the rears are overwhelming....well, what concert have you been to where the band is in the front and back of you. It is tough to achieve this on an aftermarket HU internal amp but definitely possible.
As for the sub, match the amps output to the woofer and make sure you verify the impedance load (2ohm, 4ohm, etc). Some amps are designed for different setups.
If you end up running the 6.5's or 5.25's you’ll probably have decent mid bass. Keep in mind, MOST 8" woofers are just that....woofers, not Sub-Woofers. If you want the mid bass kick the 8" will definitely do. But bass is an addiction and you WILL want more once the 8" is in there. In your situation, I would personally let the 6.5's kick the mids and run a 10 sealed, with the amp gained down for tight clean bass. Just my .02...
The goal is to pretend you’re at a concert, close your eyes, listen to the music, and in your head be able to pinpoint where each musician is standing. If the rears are overwhelming....well, what concert have you been to where the band is in the front and back of you. It is tough to achieve this on an aftermarket HU internal amp but definitely possible.
As for the sub, match the amps output to the woofer and make sure you verify the impedance load (2ohm, 4ohm, etc). Some amps are designed for different setups.
If you end up running the 6.5's or 5.25's you’ll probably have decent mid bass. Keep in mind, MOST 8" woofers are just that....woofers, not Sub-Woofers. If you want the mid bass kick the 8" will definitely do. But bass is an addiction and you WILL want more once the 8" is in there. In your situation, I would personally let the 6.5's kick the mids and run a 10 sealed, with the amp gained down for tight clean bass. Just my .02...
04-14-2009, 06:18 PM
#13
I'm not familiar with GTM acoustics, but from personal preference and experience, 4 speakers on an aftermarket amp are your best bet. Components in the front with the woofer low and the tweeter mid level and not directly at you, and the rear acting as a fill not the major producer.
The goal is to pretend you’re at a concert, close your eyes, listen to the music, and in your head be able to pinpoint where each musician is standing. If the rears are overwhelming....well, what concert have you been to where the band is in the front and back of you. It is tough to achieve this on an aftermarket HU internal amp but definitely possible.
As for the sub, match the amps output to the woofer and make sure you verify the impedance load (2ohm, 4ohm, etc). Some amps are designed for different setups.
If you end up running the 6.5's or 5.25's you’ll probably have decent mid bass. Keep in mind, MOST 8" woofers are just that....woofers, not Sub-Woofers. If you want the mid bass kick the 8" will definitely do. But bass is an addiction and you WILL want more once the 8" is in there. In your situation, I would personally let the 6.5's kick the mids and run a 10 sealed, with the amp gained down for tight clean bass. Just my .02...
The goal is to pretend you’re at a concert, close your eyes, listen to the music, and in your head be able to pinpoint where each musician is standing. If the rears are overwhelming....well, what concert have you been to where the band is in the front and back of you. It is tough to achieve this on an aftermarket HU internal amp but definitely possible.
As for the sub, match the amps output to the woofer and make sure you verify the impedance load (2ohm, 4ohm, etc). Some amps are designed for different setups.
If you end up running the 6.5's or 5.25's you’ll probably have decent mid bass. Keep in mind, MOST 8" woofers are just that....woofers, not Sub-Woofers. If you want the mid bass kick the 8" will definitely do. But bass is an addiction and you WILL want more once the 8" is in there. In your situation, I would personally let the 6.5's kick the mids and run a 10 sealed, with the amp gained down for tight clean bass. Just my .02...
